ira

is there a doc showing exactly where they are on a 1982 ZX

can it be bad ECU? is there a way to test that?

Good to hear from you Zed, when i saw TPS test results conform with FSM, i tested the wires back to the ECU end. all appear healthy, i get continuity with very low resistance similar to touching leads on the Ohmmeter. i tried to wiggle harness and connectors to see if anything is loose or shorted but all was fine. What are ur thoughts on the numbers im getting on the AFM?

Fair enough.. since this is a Turbo model, i based my testing on ECCS section of the FSM ( pages EF & EC 2~ 38). Am i correct? a recap of the issue: 1) Car starts up quick. there is a little hiccup in idle for the first few min, then idle gets rougher and rougher to a point it struggles to stay on 2) car wont go past 30 mph even if tired to accelerate gradually. if i try to boost, it will chock immediately i started off by using electric cleaner on ECU, harness, TPS pins, and AFM resister housing but no change in performance Temp fix: unplugging the TPS dramatically improved the idle situation (blip remained but engine doesn't die nor idles rough) and resolved the drivability issues. i can rev, boost and get up to 90 mph in few sec with no issues anymore here is what im getting.... *************************************** ** TPS testing... FSM Manual, Page EF & EC - 29 on 20-pin connector and 16-pin connector Pin 18 + 25 release = .5 (Suppose to be 0 ohm) Pin 18 + 25 depressed= with slightest move I get infinity (Suppose to be infinity ohm at 30 degree if im not mistaken) TPS Terminals.. Pin 25 + 18 =0 (Suppose to be 0 ohm) Ping 25 + 24= when depressed almost half way I get closed circuit Pin 18 + Ground =infinite (Suppose to be infinity ohm) Pin 25 + Ground =infinite (Suppose to be infinity ohm) ** Starter Switch...FSM Manual, Page EF & EC - 31 on 20-Pin connector pin 9=11.5v (Suppose to be Battery voltage) ** AFM testing.... FSM Manual, Page EF & EC -36 On 16-pin Connector pin27 to body ground = 11.5V (Suppose to be Battery voltage) Pin 33-26 reads OL (suppose to be 280~400ohm) pin 33-31 reads 96.7 ohm (Suppose to be Except 0 or infinity) Testing AFM on the 16-pin side (ECU plug side). pin 26 to ground= 0.6 ohm (Suppose to be infinity) pin 31 to ground= 135.2 ohm (Suppose to be infinity) pin 33 to ground = OL (Suppose to be infinity) On AFM pins Directly Pin 33 + 26 = 201 ohm (supposed to be between 280 ~400) Pin33 + 31 = 97ohm (Suppose to be except 0 and infinity) pin 26 to ground OL pin 31 to ground OL pin 33 to ground OL i dint open the TPS yet, i dont see a need i opened the AFM side cover, it really looks very clean. the carbon track looks like its brand new. adjustments appear to be in line with the marking

OK folks, it looks like the issue is more on the AFM/TPS as im getting readings that don't match FSM. so this post should be closed as the Dist Cap is no longer the cause here. i have been getting consistent positive performance while TPS is unplugged and Dist Cap is tight. TPS test looks good so im pretty sure its not TPS related and more AFM. more will be posted in a new thread.... tnx to everyone who helped in past

Hey there, Yup, its for years 1975 ~78. so initially i didn't scroll down to the end, BUT now i did, so tnx for that Still not sure which RPM to go off of (this link or FSM)

FSM said the TPS should cut off around 900 RPM (Give and take 20) but most people on the net say 1400 rpm. Mine Cuts off about 1250, should i go up or down? Also do i make the adjustment on the actual TPS or on the AFM?

Hey Mike, appreciate the thoughts.. so yes, car in past has always been services with good quality parts. in the past 7 pages i swapped plugs, cables, rotor,, cap, fuel pump, filter, and confirmed distributor is the correct one for this model. today it ran again for more than an hour with out choking or dying. the blimps and misses are still there but engine is truly running healthy. i can tell just by standing next to it. as i pull car out of garage, its moves very smooth and responsive. i have to put new tires before doing more road tests. before replacing the TPS, id like to know what to test or look for to rule it out.

Hello Folks, hope all is well Some good news to share... today was my first attempt back at it. , i first made sure CAP is tight, it started up immediately. After 10min or so, car is behaving same old way and idle got too rough it was about to shut off. . i then unplugged the throttle sensor harness. the car immediately went from choking to healthy idle. it still had a tinny little miss every now and then..BUT, i was able to tell immediate engine is no longer restricted or choked took it for a spin and sure enough, very responsive, full of power, turbo kicked in all the way. i can safely say i had %100 performance again. Q, what should i TS to rule this out? FYI, i did use electric cleaner on the ECU and the AFM,it made no diff

tnx Zed..i was on page 14..lol

in the FSM, page 132, its suggesting to do an ignition oscilloscope test. anyone has any clarification on how to do that? can't find much on google or youtube.

Yeah, it was one of my desperate moves a while back! did i mess up?

Meanwhile, anyone knows how to use this tool or have link to manual?

Prior to installing the new pump, i drained the tank and inserted a camera. tank looked very clean, no rust. i will pick up a fuel gauge tmrw to rule that out. but im sure its fine given that car ran fine with CAP raised. anyone recalls how much pressure i should maintain? is it 45 psi? any gotchas to watch out for? dont be shy guys to share the mistakes leading to damaging Fuel pump....LOL

hey Zed, i have been keeping the CAP on tight and so far despite some of idle fluctuation, the car was very responsive & smooth when i was revving it. it has been a long time since ive felt it this smooth. when i went for a drive, it was fine as long as i did not push it. so as long as avoided engagin the trubo, the car would accelerate and was very smooth. tmrw should be snow, so i wont be out. but as soon as its dry will go for another spin.