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ira

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Everything posted by ira

  1. is there a doc showing exactly where they are on a 1982 ZX
  2. can it be bad ECU? is there a way to test that?
  3. Good to hear from you Zed, when i saw TPS test results conform with FSM, i tested the wires back to the ECU end. all appear healthy, i get continuity with very low resistance similar to touching leads on the Ohmmeter. i tried to wiggle harness and connectors to see if anything is loose or shorted but all was fine. What are ur thoughts on the numbers im getting on the AFM?
  4. Fair enough.. since this is a Turbo model, i based my testing on ECCS section of the FSM ( pages EF & EC 2~ 38). Am i correct? a recap of the issue: 1) Car starts up quick. there is a little hiccup in idle for the first few min, then idle gets rougher and rougher to a point it struggles to stay on 2) car wont go past 30 mph even if tired to accelerate gradually. if i try to boost, it will chock immediately i started off by using electric cleaner on ECU, harness, TPS pins, and AFM resister housing but no change in performance Temp fix: unplugging the TPS dramatically improved the idle situation (blip remained but engine doesn't die nor idles rough) and resolved the drivability issues. i can rev, boost and get up to 90 mph in few sec with no issues anymore here is what im getting.... *************************************** ** TPS testing... FSM Manual, Page EF & EC - 29 on 20-pin connector and 16-pin connector Pin 18 + 25 release = .5 (Suppose to be 0 ohm) Pin 18 + 25 depressed= with slightest move I get infinity (Suppose to be infinity ohm at 30 degree if im not mistaken) TPS Terminals.. Pin 25 + 18 =0 (Suppose to be 0 ohm) Ping 25 + 24= when depressed almost half way I get closed circuit Pin 18 + Ground =infinite (Suppose to be infinity ohm) Pin 25 + Ground =infinite (Suppose to be infinity ohm) ** Starter Switch...FSM Manual, Page EF & EC - 31 on 20-Pin connector pin 9=11.5v (Suppose to be Battery voltage) ** AFM testing.... FSM Manual, Page EF & EC -36 On 16-pin Connector pin27 to body ground = 11.5V (Suppose to be Battery voltage) Pin 33-26 reads OL (suppose to be 280~400ohm) pin 33-31 reads 96.7 ohm (Suppose to be Except 0 or infinity) Testing AFM on the 16-pin side (ECU plug side). pin 26 to ground= 0.6 ohm (Suppose to be infinity) pin 31 to ground= 135.2 ohm (Suppose to be infinity) pin 33 to ground = OL (Suppose to be infinity) On AFM pins Directly Pin 33 + 26 = 201 ohm (supposed to be between 280 ~400) Pin33 + 31 = 97ohm (Suppose to be except 0 and infinity) pin 26 to ground OL pin 31 to ground OL pin 33 to ground OL i dint open the TPS yet, i dont see a need i opened the AFM side cover, it really looks very clean. the carbon track looks like its brand new. adjustments appear to be in line with the marking
  5. OK folks, it looks like the issue is more on the AFM/TPS as im getting readings that don't match FSM. so this post should be closed as the Dist Cap is no longer the cause here. i have been getting consistent positive performance while TPS is unplugged and Dist Cap is tight. TPS test looks good so im pretty sure its not TPS related and more AFM. more will be posted in a new thread.... tnx to everyone who helped in past
  6. Hey there, Yup, its for years 1975 ~78. so initially i didn't scroll down to the end, BUT now i did, so tnx for that Still not sure which RPM to go off of (this link or FSM)
  7. FSM said the TPS should cut off around 900 RPM (Give and take 20) but most people on the net say 1400 rpm. Mine Cuts off about 1250, should i go up or down? Also do i make the adjustment on the actual TPS or on the AFM?
  8. Hey Mike, appreciate the thoughts.. so yes, car in past has always been services with good quality parts. in the past 7 pages i swapped plugs, cables, rotor,, cap, fuel pump, filter, and confirmed distributor is the correct one for this model. today it ran again for more than an hour with out choking or dying. the blimps and misses are still there but engine is truly running healthy. i can tell just by standing next to it. as i pull car out of garage, its moves very smooth and responsive. i have to put new tires before doing more road tests. before replacing the TPS, id like to know what to test or look for to rule it out.
  9. Hello Folks, hope all is well Some good news to share... today was my first attempt back at it. , i first made sure CAP is tight, it started up immediately. After 10min or so, car is behaving same old way and idle got too rough it was about to shut off. . i then unplugged the throttle sensor harness. the car immediately went from choking to healthy idle. it still had a tinny little miss every now and then..BUT, i was able to tell immediate engine is no longer restricted or choked took it for a spin and sure enough, very responsive, full of power, turbo kicked in all the way. i can safely say i had %100 performance again. Q, what should i TS to rule this out? FYI, i did use electric cleaner on the ECU and the AFM,it made no diff
  10. tnx Zed..i was on page 14..lol
  11. in the FSM, page 132, its suggesting to do an ignition oscilloscope test. anyone has any clarification on how to do that? can't find much on google or youtube.
  12. Yeah, it was one of my desperate moves a while back! did i mess up?
  13. Meanwhile, anyone knows how to use this tool or have link to manual?
  14. Prior to installing the new pump, i drained the tank and inserted a camera. tank looked very clean, no rust. i will pick up a fuel gauge tmrw to rule that out. but im sure its fine given that car ran fine with CAP raised. anyone recalls how much pressure i should maintain? is it 45 psi? any gotchas to watch out for? dont be shy guys to share the mistakes leading to damaging Fuel pump....LOL
  15. hey Zed, i have been keeping the CAP on tight and so far despite some of idle fluctuation, the car was very responsive & smooth when i was revving it. it has been a long time since ive felt it this smooth. when i went for a drive, it was fine as long as i did not push it. so as long as avoided engagin the trubo, the car would accelerate and was very smooth. tmrw should be snow, so i wont be out. but as soon as its dry will go for another spin.
  16. just took it for a short spin. dispite the little blinps her and there w the idle the car ran very smooth, throutle was very responsive and extremely smooth. but if i tried to push it and engage trubo, it would hesitate
  17. no doubt, but the car would run fine when CAP is raised. it did this regularly even with bad injector. so if it was a fuel delivery issue then it would misbehave at all times
  18. when car arrived, it would not start at all. i had to put in a new fuel pump. since then car starts immediately but no, i have not tested fuel pressure. im pretty sure the pump is for the correct Turbo model
  19. i do have access to the ECCS analyzer for the 1982 Turbo but it has no manual. i have not been able to locate any ive seen few nice vids on Megasquirt. i dont mind it as long as i know where the issues are! Prior to replacing injector, the turbo worked just fine when CAP was raised. so im sure its not a turbo issue hopefully when rain stops i can take it for a spin
  20. Is there a way i can read O2 info? im sure we can find some indications there
  21. so idle is around 850 still with some missing every few seconds, just like before. as for revving it up, (slowly, gradually or suddenly) today its very smooth with no hesitation or choppiness. Couldn't take it for spin due to rain (tires not in good shape) i feel its a Fuel air mix issue but not sure where to start. i dont want to redo the valves clearance again
  22. last night's weather wasn't much diff than now. I just started the car again, it idled high around 1300 for a min or 2 , then back down to around 850 for past 15 min. not seeing rough idle like last night. will let it go for a little longer to see if it changes. i measured 19 psi on the intake (right off the fuel regulator hose) will post pic of plugs as well. the cables are new NGK ones as well
  23. Hey folks, hope all is well. finally i Received the new injector form zcarDepot. USPS isnt the best choice, it took 2 weeks to arrive. for $65 i received a very originally looking item with upper and lower seals &clamp. vacuumed sealed package. i made sure the injector sprays. started the car with new inject & old cap/rotor. when removing the power harness on the new injector the engine will immediately start to act up. so im glad we have a change there. but the car still has the same issue which is starting to idle rough after a while and not being able to go above 30 MPH. so i went a head and replaced the CAP & rotor with new ones off ebay ( it suppose to be japan made prt) the car ran worse than before. very bad idling. for the first time ever, when i removed the vacuum hose on the fuel regulator, some stuff came out. it was almost like a debries or dust like. im almost certain it wasn't wet or moisture spray . it only happened once loosing up the cap doesn't seem to make a diff not sure if car needs to run for a while to learn about the new injector. what can i do next?
  24. it be nice if i find one that can help service the old Z plus newer cars. im a computer geek, so i will figure it out, but i just need help deciding what is suitable for the older cars. whats specs should i be looking for on an Oscilloscope
  25. Hope all is well guys and that you've enjoyed your time off. looking to get an Oscilloscope, but have no clue what to look for. can some one suggest? here is what i was able to find, but again dont know if these do the job 1) https://www.newark.com/seeed-studio/72-12875/dso-nano-v3-pocket-oscilloscope/dp/68Y0128?gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5fjOE1QC3fUbg-vWRA5kdWtLGnkpvvtyINIYi-STskBdJBexp00e3RhoCQ_oQAvD_BwE&mckv=sPUiaKi4F_dc|pcrid|434136793584|plid||kword||match||slid||product|68Y0128|pgrid|100464452106|ptaid|pla-901419072616|&CMP=KNC-GUSA-GEN-Shopping-NewStructure-Test-Measurement 2) https://www.amazon.com/YEAPOOK-Handheld-Oscilloscope-Professional-Bandwidth/dp/B07XBL4BTL/ref=pd_di_sccai_3/147-0082242-3185004?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07XBL4BTL&pd_rd_r=afd74d7c-c862-40f9-8032-52347d418724&pd_rd_w=Gl4OZ&pd_rd_wg=x4eV9&pf_rd_p=c9443270-b914-4430-a90b-72e3e7e784e0&pf_rd_r=TFXYPBH2V944PRH3ZCDX&psc=1&refRID=TFXYPBH2V944PRH3ZCDX 3) https://www.amazon.com/Hantek-Oscilloscope-Generator-Multimeter-Multifunction/dp/B07MQJR6W9/ref=asc_df_B07MQJR6W9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343187910376&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13656858700912694070&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1022331&hvtargid=pla-726785581902&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=69721953515&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343187910376&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13656858700912694070&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1022331&hvtargid=pla-726785581902
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