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tnx for the reading material. im on the zCarDepot placing order for injector, CAP, Rotor & new basic NGK plugs.

Guys, anyone knows about the reference signal? i was reading somewhere that there is a 5v signal that must be available at all times. it's originally an AC signal that comes from the Crank Sensor to ICM, then ICM converts it to a digital Sig that the ECU can benefit from. i have no clue where i can chk for that on the ZX

im a huge fan of keeping it original but if there is a benefit in upgrading ECU, i wouldn't mind it. some upgrades are healthy and do increase car safety and efficiency send some suggestions pls

i hear ya, but the injector does spray. so could it be something else in the injector that is malfunction?

i had previously put a link for the injector i purchased and it was for sure fit for the turbo model. can some one recommend a brand? tnx

Hey JSM, and tnx for sharing. my ECU was replaced by my trusted mechanic few years ago. my dad accidently plugged the battery backwards and fried few things. several parts were replaced at that point. one of which the distributor. im pretty confident its a healthy ECU but i don't have a way to prove that. as for the connectors, they are nicely snug and safely covered. i dont mind upgrading connectors if u have link for one.

i swapped inject6 w inject 5, and the problem followed. as soon as i unplug harness on any injector engine will act up except on the new injector which i snow in position number 5. So even though it sprays can it be a bad injector? Whats next?

not sure which oscilloscope to look for.. id appreciate it if one can be recommended on amazon or ebay. i see digital ones, some say for car audio, others diode testers. DC/AC

i could swear i uploaded some stuff last night. couple of short videos showing car idle after 15min warm up starting to show blimps and missing. Then cap was raised, car ran for 2 hours almost w no signs of any idle issues. unplugging inj 6 made no diff, while unplugging others clearly showed a difference. there is an incredible amount of exhaust smell to the point i take outside of the garage immediately. you can smell that even outside in the open. is there a video or steps to help conduct a signal test? could it be the ignition is not sending correct signal to ECU? 15min_after_first_start.MOV disabling_injecters.MOV IMG_9291.MOV

haven tired that. i can give a try but someone here asked me to keep it tight as it should be need to figure out why inject 6 doesn't make a diff when unplugged. i do recall inector 6 making some diff when cap was raised. it was very minimal change compared to other injectors however, i was able to notice a change in engine sound Zed, do u have answer for 3 , 4 or 5? tnx

Hey guys... 1) attached is pic for the battery connector i used. i measure ohms on cables with out having this installed and i get 0 ohms almost on all connections (on screw below batter tray, on intake manifold screw, as well as the starter screw). after installing the connector i do see ohm reading of about 1~5 ohms depending where you touch. Battery leads have been cleaned very well w sand paper. 2) one connector below the fan was very oily. cleaned it up pretty good 3) found one loose red & yellow connector 4) Cut wires (black , Black/Brown). its obvious they were cut w a sharp object as they are very clean cut 5) what are these 2 sensors? as of now, condition is the same. once the car is warmed up the idle has some blimps and missing. unplugging injector 6 still has no effect on engine sound, or idling. not sure whats next

yeah..thats true about my Ohm meter. back in collage i did a lot of motherboard testing and soldering. so im aware of touching the leads before measureing i'm hopping Friday will be warm enough for me to do more tracing. if anyone has pics of firewall spots to test or connect to that be cool

yup, will get a new one and test in a day or so. it should warm up in NJ on Friday

agreed.

yeah, will do..i have been really under the weather. last night had to replace water pump on my wife's Camry . it was cold and now back to being weak. the 8.2ohm reading i see now is directly from batt Neg to the screw or connection point just below the battery tray which is less that 2 feet away. im also getting the same 8.2 on a screw point on the intake manifold. one of the 4 gauge black cables down below ( on the body screw area) has some green residue build up. it tried to clean it w Carb spray and scrub but no go should i use brake cleaner?

battery post and cable connections are brand new. did some cleaning on other areas now im reading 8.3ohms. i will keep going with this cleaning, but meanwhile, are there any other parts, valves, sensors i should be testing? are there any parts require cleaning of some sort such as the AFM? do you think i would benefit at all from an odb2 reader? i have access to a Kent Moore J28835 ECCS Analyzer but no manual.

someone here asked me to post a the vids using color tune plug. they wanted to see if car was running rich or lean. changing the cables resulted in a good burn on plug6. if you recall that one was always wet and dark. next i will change cap and rotor. i believe the distributor is the correct one. are there any sensors i need to test? or should i look at the AFM to see if needs any clean up?

ok, here are the vids. best viewed using VLC player... i also cleaned up the PCV valve w carb cleaner and made sure its moving freely cold_start.mp4 7_min_later.mp4 20min_later.mp4 idling_01.mp4

Sorry for delayed reply, been under the weather. i managed to clean the ground but i still get a reading of 31.4 ohms. i received the color tune plug. but the vids fail to upload here, let me see if i can make them smaller and upload again also i changed the plugs cables only. as i still didnt get the cap & rotor. attached is a pic of Spark plug #6 after new cables. IMG_9253_cold_start.MOV

Correct, i did .04 whats an acceptable ohm reading between the batter negative and the chassis main ground? and should that be somewhat close to a point on the engine/manifold?

Actually last week i added a ground cable link from the manifold to the battery negative because i didnt like the reading test i did between batter & chassis main ground. it doesnt look like it made much of a difference but its a good thing to do regardless. i obtained a CRC electronic cleaner and ive been going through connectors when ever possible waiting on new CAP & Cables to arrive. i made the spark plug gap about .4 is that ok? i think originally they came as .35. should i make it bigger? the FSM gave a range of .39~.43

pretty sure it's a P here is a good site for parts guys.. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1982,280zx,2.8l+l6+turbocharged,1209361,ignition

on the distributor i can read 22100 p9500 as well as D6P81-02 2503 upon google search it showed the below https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-distributor~22100-p9500.html

noted. so what would cause plug#6 to be wet and diff from others. Could that be carbon buildup on that valve? if yes how to best clean that? what causes inj6 to have no impact on engine when unplugged (if Distributor cap is tight) and have little change in engine sound when cap is a loose?

with that being said...any one can help with DIY? it be nice to know which can to buy and how to best conduct this how many of you did this as part of their maintenance?