ira

i would not know if hydraulic or not. i d have to search unless u have a clea pic. i can also take a pic and repost it here

im gonna search the cap and rotor u mentioned, but if u have a link that would be awesome

p90A

hard to tell the brand. most likely purchased from NAPA Rotor said made in Italy. it has letter F and the numbers 961. cap has #22162-D8000. did a google search but nothing useful what do you guys recommend?

as you can see, diff values for valve adj in the same manual

Correct. i have not been able to do road test due to rain. but will find a way to keep the cap raised and take it for a spin. I've had this car since 2005, it currently has 87k miles. when i moved out of MN i could not take it right away. it sat for few years. however even back then it started to have a wacko behavior. one day it will rip the road apart and next hour or so i cant go passed 30miles. if i hit gas to boost it would choke, and feel like its taking a nose dive and jitter a lot. if i tried to accelerate slowly, it did the same thing as well. 3 weeks ago a friend of mine was coming to east cost to pick up a car from auction. So he brought my Z to the east cost.

i did find inject #6 dead. it was shorted and never sprayed any fuel. and to ur point, when i unplugged harness on #6 it made no diff on engine. removing harness on injectors 5,4,3 & 2 made some diff. unplugging harness on #1 made a huge diff. engine was shaking pretty bad replacing inj#6 didn't make it run any better though. so i moved on to checking the valves and noticed several exhaust and intake ones extremely tight. The service manual indicated diff values on diff pages. for example, on one page it said .008 & .010 when hot. then few pages its said .010 & .012 when hot i went with 10 & 12 since they were really tight. i think i was barely able to fit a .007 feeler. doing the above put the vaccum gauge from lower 14 to upper 21 or 22

got it... is there a spray i can use to clean up connector ends? i see couple with some greenish build up in there

Dave, i see ur point w foul plug. i will test for sure, but the fact that raising the cap gives me great results i figured no need to pursue the plugs &/or cables at the moment. so far i've been able to reproduce/fix for a day. im gonna try that for couple more days. any one knows the spacing for the spark plugs?

Zed, Mark and Dave, Thank you all for the prompt replies yeah, i forgot to mention that i did take it apart. i cleaned up the little corrosion under the seal plate. New NGK sparks plugs. don't know what spacing they need to have so i compared to old ones. Rotor is firm, hardly has any up & down movement. i did use a very fine sand paper and gently scrubbed the tip to get rid of any accumulations here are some pics

Hey folks, and tnx in advance. 1982 Datsun 5 speed Trubo. at cold start the car idles steady at aprox 1100 RPM. 10min later after it warms up i start to hear little miss here and there. the longer it runs, the more miss and rough idle starts to happen to a point that needle is all over the place. I place a vacuum gauge on the Fuel Reg hose and i see that at first its steady in the green but again once car is warm, gauge is all over the place form RED to Green. here is the interesting part, when i loosen the 2 screws on the distributor cap, and raise it up just a tiny bit, the idle becomes perfect (about 800 or so), the engine sounds prefect and the vacuum gauge is solid steady in the green area on 21 or 22.

JSM, I couldn't resist either, and would have said it had you not... tnx a lot folks for these tips...I owned 2 of these beauties, one was stolen by my eX...it had 50k miles. I was 2nd owner. now im dealing with this one that has 79k miles on it and love to find a mechanic that knows these cars. im hopping with your expertise, I can narrow it down, but it can only happen by taking a strategic approach. will let you know outcome soon

Folks, tnx a lot for reading my post. im in desperate need for a mechanic who knows 1982 zx280 turbo cars. My z is acting up, one minute its ready to race and rip streets a part, then literally few min later cant go past 30m/h. car chocks, gas pedal feels like there is a rock behind it. my trusted mechanic ruled out many things such as fuel pump, computer errors, bunch of sensors...but we don't seem to figure it out pls help, tnx