Jay.

Thanks! Couldn't find this topic again? Some of the updates on the shipping can be found here: http://zclub.net/forum/showthread.php?t=28384 And subsequent updates are here (will keep posting updates on here): http://zclub.net/forum/showthread.php?t=28638

Link doesn't work either, I wonder if it's being taken down for some reason? The replica for $390+90 shipping? I think they'll be approx $700+ once landed here in the UK as they're from Japan.

Still searching

They look lovely! Couldn't stomach paying that much though!

As a temporary measure I could get away with doing something similar: http://www.doyouevenhoon.com/datsun-240z-gtr/convert-240z-us-lights-to-uk-spec.html

Many thanks! I had found the ebay ones, but not the other. Techno Tuning do a set but again they're more expensive than the actual JDM ones. I guess if the lenses aren't much cheaper than a whole set of lights then I may as well go for the whole set! Was hoping to find a set around the 200 mark as that's what the other two guys paid for theirs, so maybe I'll strike lucky!

I've heard that you can get replacement lenses which would make things easier, as I could then adapt my own lights. I've found a few JDM ones for sale but they're pretty expensive so hopefully someone comes through with a spare set

As title really. Need some JDM or Euro spec tail lights to make the Z legal over here. Willing to pay shipping

Thanks guys, I guess having some poorly fitting parts might be better than fabricating completely fresh. Hoping to have the car picked up by the end of next week, there's been some serious faff between the seller and the escrow company but that appears to be sorted out - seller wasn't happy letting the car go without funds cleared into his account but the escrow service wasn't happy to send funds without the car. Luckily that's all resolved!

Some great replies here. I hope you can take these for what they're worth (advice) rather than taking it personally! There has been plenty of successful fuel cells installed, and if that's genuinely the way you want to go then it can be done. Lots of examples over on hybridz if you need new ideas (which I suggest you do) I'd have to err towards the old boys, there's no real need to swap the fuel tank out for a cell. If yours was rusty then a replacement would have been easier and cheaper. However, as you've said you've got the cell now and if you want to use it then it's your project.. Just take some time and consider how you're going to put it in, you've got quite a lot of time to play with right now by the sounds of things. Out of interest, who's helping you with the build?

Would tabco still be the best to go for? I've noticed quite a few companies offer panels, but tabco seems to be the biggest?.. I'll have a read of that when it comes to it! I guess that's just part of owning an old car Donor metals over here are rare, so I guess I'll look at fabricating some myself. If that fails then I'll try for some replacement parts. The money's been sent to the escrow, who will be conducting an inspection and then buying assuming it passes. Hoping that the car will be here in the next 6 weeks!

Just finished reading your thread, thank you again for your help on mine. What a fantastic write up and amazing commitment. I don't feel experienced enough to comment or advise, so I'll just sit here in awe

That's a great idea. My dad learnt to weld when we were doing up an old Miata, so I'm sure he'd be keen to give me some tips too. As for POR15, having a read and it appears you're right, best for rusting areas as opposed to rust-free. I'll look at some other products. Is it worth just using normal sheet metal or opting to get some replacement panels instead? .. I guess it saves fabrication and bending, but also costs more. I did have a MIG welder, or rather my Dad did, but it got stolen about 3 months ago! Insurance money popped through so I'll convince him to replace it Would you opt to do that on the underside too? I guess the benefit of a decent underseal is it applys pretty easily anywhere. Did you get some pics of that? .. It appears the soundmat is one of the causes for the rust, as it's trapped in the moisture! Although I guess the 'root' cause would be a leak somewhere

I certainly hope so! My goal would definitely be to get all the rust sorted, but it would be nice to have a bit of driving time before putting it into the workshop Originally I had thought of getting it professionally done, however I might get a welder and learn as and appears to be a bit of a recurring theme! Is POR15 still the way to go to get it undersealed?

Ah yeh I'm sort of bracing myself to find more of It, but as you mentioned I'd like to drive it around a bit to enjoy the car which will motivate me to strip it down when the weather starts to turn At what point did you decide it was too much? Any parts in particular? The only concern for passing an MOT will be the rear dogleg as that's probably going to he deemed structural. I'll be able to see that better in person. There's also a few changes to the lights, signals and minor things that will need to be done before it's legal over here too.. I'll document those for people in the future too

To England, in the end there was too much hassle involved getting it legally driven as he doesnt have his own insurance and we couldn't get anyone to insure him I'll get a detailed account on how everything goes and put it up here as I'm sure it might be useful for people in the future I hope so! Where in particular do you think?

So my brother went and viewed the car.l yesterday. He was impressed at the condition of the paint work but there were a few areas of concern. Most were made aware to me, primarily the rusty dog legs. Unfortunately as someone has predicted, the rear arches had been rolled badly which has caused some rust to build up, which is hopefully easily rectified. Beneath the carpets the floorboards were beginning to rust again. It hasn't gone through the metal and appears to be strong still, but it looks superficially quite bad, I've attached an image. The dash was cracked quite badly but the seller has included a dash in much better condition which I can swap over. Mechanically the car runs really well.. engine appears to have been fitted well and there's no vibrations during normal driving. Unfortunately it had rained so he wasn't able to give it a proper blast but he said that it all felt good. We've come to an agreement and the car will be picked up by the shipping agency some time this coming week. I've uploaded some photos, hopefully nothing stands out too much but I figured I'd open it up to the violence some opinions!

Having the car looked at on Friday, excited! Will post updates here. Thanks everyone for your advice so far

Ah that's a shame, we have 'get you home' over here where they'll tow us to our home address... I guess it helps that everything is so close here I'll look into transporter costs.

I think i'll go for some roadside assistance thing, assuming I'll be able to? Any idea how much that would roughly be? I looked into a rebello build but they're upwards of 5-10k

Many thanks for these quick responses.. It's a shame it's not unified across all the states but I guess that's the point of have a state system! I'll call up Michigan DMV and see what they suggest. My brother would prefer to drive it whilst he's out there but if it's a ton of hassle then I can always revert to picking it up on a trailer and get it trucked to NY where it'll be put on a ship. There's no requirement for it to be registered to be shipped, the only document they use is thr title to determine the car manufacturing details. The title is clean and in the sellers name, and it was registered before in MA, but he hasn't re registered the car as he's selling it and doesn't see the point in registering it (not sure I agree with that..)

A question hopefully you guys can clarify for my brother and myself, in terms of buying a car itself. He's working and living in Detroit, and the Datsun is located in NC. The car is unregistered since the seller moved from MA a few months ago, which is his motivation to sell. Is it as simple as turning up, paying the seller for the vehicle and having them sign over the title?.. Do I need to then register the car in order to drive it home? I assume I'll also need insurance in order to register it (state of North Carolina). What if the car is currently not registered? Do I just head to the DMV and register it myself, even if I'm driving it to another state? Could I register it in detroit via NC DMV? Or can I drive it unregistered to detroit and then register it then? He currently drives a company car on his UK license.. I read something about having to apply for a NC license... Will that be required? (appreciate that may be too specific of a question, but thought Id ask just in case) Thanks for help. In the UK it's as simple as turning up and buying the vehicle, then having them sign the v5 (title) over and then drive home once insured. No need to register the car etc

Many thanks for the detailed reply. It is someone else's vision but to be honest it's quite close to what I'd want too... Not personally a fan of the way it sits, but that easily rectified. It's been fitted using mckinney (?) mounts and appears to be done properly, but you're right that any shortcuts that have been made will be my problem. It has been running quite happily for the past 4 years/20k miles with no issues. The forums are significantly slower than what I'm used to (previously miata.net and rennlist.com/6speedonline) but thr answers appear much more thought out here. Skylines are common here, we don't have any import restrictions so finding specialists and parts will be reasonable, I'd say probably easier than Datsun specific stuff as they're not common at all here. My brother has built a few cars himself and will hopefully be able gauge the quality of work.. If it'd bad then he'll walk away. If it's average then I guess I'll shoulder that and slowly improve it.

Thanks for that! I'll get him to lift them up and make sure they're not rotting. Also ty for the vin gem, I hadn't come across that before. I appreciate it's stepping away from the original design.. But hopefully we can still find a common ground in enjoying the car in our own ways I've tried Hybridz, there is a treasure of information on it. Haven't quite found the same helpfulness that I've seen in my limited time here. Would it be sacrilege to keep posting even if I end up with a horrible JDM engine :P?

Thanks for the quick responses guys, you are all really helpful. This has honestly been one of the most welcoming forums I've been to. I spoke to the previous buyer, and he confirmed the sellers story - they couldn't agree on a price. He offered the same as I did and the seller rejected it as I'd said I'd pay that before. The seller said that the floors were replaced 4 years ago by the previous owner, along with the rear hatch bit. My brother and his friend (who owns a 240z) are both out in Detroit and are going to go buy it on my behalf. They're both car guys so I'm confident they'll check it over... But they're not z experts at all, so I'll need to brief them when I can. Assuming it starts from cold well, doesn't smoke or make any odd noise, keeps good pressure, drives nicely then I'm confident they'll be okay to check it. I'm more worried about the s30 specific things. Is the carpet easy to lift to check the floors for rust? I will likely use an agent to transport the car etc, and if my brother isn't confident in okaying the vehicle then I've found a classic expert who will inspect it for around $500.. Not cheap at all though!