jellobob777

I have these spoilers available I am in New Jersey They mount to the factory 240Z metal valance just below the directional lamps They are hand laid fiberglass with a black Gelcoat that can be painted or left as is Contact me at coolnoldparts@yahoo.com if you would like pictures . The spoilers are $75 each plus shipping from 07055 New Jersey

The one thing no one took into consideration is the transmission behind the L28 A car with a 5 speed will rev less and most likely last longer (more Miles) i have seen ZX cars last considerably longer than S30s and believe the 5 speed verses 4 speeds /Automatics was the difference .

Put my name on 4 pairs I am still thinking about the Metal versus Plastic but i am leaning toward Plastic . I would guess Esprit didn't sell the strips separate because it would eliminate a lot of sales of the complete light sets . The Chrome strips are all my lights need to look new .

The one item that comes to mind if it could be done at a reasonable price is the chrome /plastic strip that divides the center of the 240 Tailights .It has never been available by its self that i know of and almost every 240 built from 1969 through 1973 could use new ones , I could use a few sets of those myself

Dont forget all new Rubber brake lines . Yes the dash wiring harness goes on the back of the dash before installing it Motorsport sells brighter dash light bulbs that go in the original sockets

All of the 77/78 tanks i have the drain plug is small and on the Pass side as you describe The Large plug in the center is the early tank (Early75 and before).The picture in the FSM may be of a JDM tank or just being used as an example and may not be the actual 77-78 tank .

In the Northeast thats a nice starting point for a restoration In the southwest its questionable purchase . I guess "One mans ceilling is another mans floor " Interesting that it had the SAP stripes and appears to have the SAP Mirrors but not the Louvers and I cant see any of the holes in the hatch where they were either? Are there any Repro stripe kits on the market for these cars??

Les has them listed on the website at classic datsun motorsports

It appears the same thing happened to the Sunburst yellow (411) Zaap Z cars. From everything i have read Datsun/Nissan made the same amount of Zaap Zs as Black Pearl (638)cars but i see tons more Black Pearls than Zaaps I would imagine the Yellow (411) like the Chartreuse 112 was a Love It or Hate it color and many were repainted a more widely appealing color ???

I second the Shenaigans declaration on this one !! I will say that i do hope it was legit and the values on the Z cars are coming up so i can justify putting the time $$$ and effort into restoring my cars !

That car was going to need some serious work ,right in the description it said needs frame and floors and no pictures to show how severe the damage was, the battery area was a mess also and shown in the pictures . a With numerous paint jobs who knows what was "lurking " Original motor was included but Seized That could get costly if the block is cracked or it could be Junk all together no way to tell until its apart and magnafluxed i would say easily $20,000 more like $25000 to do a full on rotisserie restoration if not more remember that bumpers alone by the time you buy all the guards and brackets and rubber strips will cost $1500 and media blasting inside and out costs any where from $1500-$2000 .I also never trust an ebay auction with a seller who opened his account the day of the start of the auction .Does any one actually know who the last two bidders were who ran it up to $10,000 Mike B ?????

The whole 240Z V 280Z debate can be found in numerous past threads . As an owner of both i must agree with Fast woman about the 280Z being the best as a Daily driver. The 280 is the most refined of the S30 series and great to turn the key and go eveytime anytime especially on the East Coast . The 240s with Carbs and point ignitions tend to need a bit of "finess" at times and take some time to warm up before driving . I would suggest you drive both and then make your own decision .

All great information Carl is absolutely Right if you have the money buy the best all original car you can find ,Fastwoman has an excellent point sometimes a perfect car is no fun because of the fear of putting a chip in it ,The best i can add to this is if you are looking at cars that will need some work to bring up to excellent condition start with something that is as close to original as possible mechanically and Body /Paint . You know what you are starting with when buying an original paint car even if it needs to be stripped to bare metal , at least you know there is no lurking damage underneath .Also dont assume all southwest cars will be rust free I bought a Z from Arizona once that was the biggest rust bucket ever !!

Mike its looking great ! I have found the same writing under the paint on parts (A rear Hatch)as new as 1972 ,I find it interesting it survives the liquid stripper and yet is never visible through the paint ?? Hopefully i will get #33 started soon .Your updates are an inspiration .

The misuse of adjectives to describe cars could be a whole new thread to discuss . Vintage , Restored , ORIGINAL, Survivor,Classic and Antique could also be in there .I sometimes forward Car ads to a friend of mine who is a Communications Professor at a local University , He is a fellow Z owner and some are just comical.

The Miata which started production in 1989 is only 21 years old Its a fun car and may become a Classic but right now it does not even qualify for Classic license plates in any states i know of ??

If its the same car i talked with the seller the day he listed it(Its blue and in Delaware) . The frame rails had been cut out of it so that stronger ones could be fabricated but nothing beyond cutting out the old ones was ever done . It is listed as "Rust Free" but he did say there was some rust . Its an absolutely bare shell with no suspension or dash/wiring, glass ,doors ,hatch,fenders or hood , since he did not have the dash the Vin tag was not there either .The asking price was $400 , he did not know much about Z cars but i did not ask if he was negotiable on the price.

I think the term "Classic " is somewhat open as to each persons opinion . Is a 72 Pinto a Classic its between 20-40 years old ??? In my opinion the S30 body is the "Classic" Z . That would be Z cars produced between 70-78 .Just one mans opinion !

BMFC If its the "Rust Free" shell in Delaware i hope they told you the frame rails have been cut out of it on both sides ,so its going to take a bit of welding to start with .

Rust clogged gas tanks on a 78 is always a possibility , That is usually the cause of the bad fuel pump. I have been watching that car on CL in Bridgewater drop in price Now at $500 it sounds like a good deal the 5 Speed is worth 1/2 of that

A 71 is a 240 there are many changes between the two bodies some are cosmetic (bumpers .Tailights, valances ) many are structural (The 280 has bigger frame rails) , as far as the main body the doors do NOT interchange neither will the suspension .If you want to change over the Fuel injection you will need a 75-76 gas tank the 77-78 will not work in a 240 body due to the spare tire well (Another difference in the bodies ).

There is a small V shaped screen at the inlet to the fuel pump that becomes clogged with the rust silt that is in the tank. Remove it wit a small pick and tap it up side down on a clean white piece of paper this will show you what is floating in th tank . The Tank MUST be removed to have it cleaned and sealed properly . Running the pump dry is never good . The fuel cools and lubricates the pump and they tend to burn out if run dry for any period of time . It may have just lost its prime if you still hear the pump working try using a small funnel to fill the hose connected to the fuel pump and always have a fire extinguisher handy when working with exposed fuel !!

Looks like a nice Black Pearl ! I have to agree with Garry another car may have hidden Issues that may not show up until later . I doubt you are going to find a much better car for what you have paid judging from the one picture posted .More detailed pictures may help .

Just Checked Hls300033 and no springs and no cover plate Hls3004017 has 2 springs and the plate .I also have an NOS series one gas door with the part# ink stamped on it part # 78810-B4101 that has 2 springs and the extra plate on it.

Just Checked Hls300033 and no springs and no cover plate Hls3004017 has 2 springs and the plate .I also have an NOS series one gas door with the part# ink stamped on it part # 78810-B4101 that has 2 springs and the extra plate on it.