Jdizz07

Thanks for the replies everyone. Haven’t had a chance to get to the old girl this week as it’s out at my lockup (problem in London having no garage!), will have a tinker this weekend on all the above possibilities and get back to you. Really appreciate the help and will be in touch over the weekend. JD

Thanks! Wires 13, & 49? I will check this afternoon. Is there anyway of checking/by passing this to see if its the sensor playing up? Or perhaps the wiring? Thanks

Hi All, After getting my 280Z running after a fresh rebuild, I have fixed the smokey burnt oil from a valve seat , however it is still running ultra rich. To the point where after a new set of spark plugs it sounds great, then after 3 minutes of running they look like the photo below. What are some of the ways I can Lean out the mixture to get her running spot on??? Hopefully the video link below will give you guys an idea of the engine condition etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! JD

Thanks alot guys. I have bought a vacuum pump so will test it this weekend. Would it have any impact on the engine running rough while driving? Mine seems to be running worse since the rebuild. (was running great last week)

Thanks alot, Im guessing this broken wire has something to do with it?

Hi all, Finally got my 76' 280Z going, but whenever the brake pedal is pressed the engine revs up to about 3000rpm. Any ideas? Hole in the brake booster? Brakes still work as usual. Any ideas for a cheap fix? Thanks in advance JD

Ill check the dizzy/leads but im sure Ive check them more than once to be correct. Im trying to by a second hand intake off a late 280zx so I can grab the thermotime sensor and water temp switch. But unsure this will solve anything... The triple carbs would be my overall choice for what i would like, aesthetics and reducing the old dodgy electrics, however its a massive trade-off because I want to drive the car now, and dont want to spend the money.... Anyone got a cheap set of triples out there for me?!?!

Hi Guys, After a couple of dry weekends Ive managed to get back onto the Datsun engine, but shes still not running properly if at all. I corrected the dizzy shaft tang to what appears to me to be the correct tooth. See photo below. Now, Ive plugged up both vacuum hoses from the dizzy and purge tank respectively (see photo on previous page) Thermo time switch and water temp switch are both not fixed/connected either. I can finally get her running for about 15 seconds, sounds like its seriously missing/running on 5?... and then it dies, and unable to start again. Ive done this twice. I have half a tank of gas, and getting spark. Im really unsure what to do now!!! Very frustrating, living in a place with limited parts and limited knowledge on these cars!.. Was even thinking of getting rid of the whole FI and going for carbs! Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the replies guys, really appreciate it. I originally cranked it over post-rebuild without the spark plugs to get the oil up/check there is no bent valves, timing correct, etc but now thinking about your last post Site, the dizzy could be in the wrong way. (180 degrees around ), this would certainly make a difference right? I can almost assure you that the timing/tdc is correct as i had to do it twice! (broken head bolt, dont as lol). but i didnt check the dizzy when it went in. I get a popping sound out of the AFM when i give it gas while trying to start it. Think the dizzy in the wrong orientation is my answer! Will get to it this weekend guys and let you know. Thanks again for the help! Cheers JD

Hi all, Happy New years to everyone. After taking the leap of faith and tearing the engine down and rebuilding it, Im now at the nervous point whereby you hope everything is done correctly and hope she fires up.... and she didnt.... So some basic background on the engine. When I received it was running very rich and since checking compression and tearing done the head, found a bad valve seat in Cyl 1. After reconditioning the head, replacing the rings, big ends, new camshaft (after my original was stolen) put is all back together and she cranks over but does not fire. I have spark, I have petrol (injectors are spraying on crank over). Now to my nightmare.... The wiring was in pretty bad nick when i got the car, but have continuity tested all wires from the ECU and everything check out, the problem is some of the sensors have broken. The thermo-time switch is broken, as well as the brittle wires from the water temperature switch have broken. (see photos below) The car was also running a vacuum switch solenoid on top of the thermostat housing, (originally from Cali) which also has broken, leaving me with a some lose vacuum lines and wires I have no idea if that is contributing to it not starting. These parts are not cheap buying new, i think a new thermo-time switch is about £80 by the time i get it shipped to the UK, not really money well spent. Can any of you guys point me in the right direction of potentially removing/blocking up/ resolving these niggly problems and if they contribute to the car not wanting to fire??? Sorry for all the photos, but unsure where to start... any advice on any of these issues would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, JD

The DVLA over in the UK needs to see the certification to ascertain that it is the car stated. I didnt get any paperwork with the car, no log book or anything, just the California plates on the car. The shipping/VAT has been paid my end when it came into the country, I just need the 'certificate of origin ' for them to register it here. thanks

Hi guys, Ive recently imported a 1976 Nissan Datsun 280Z with California plates from the USA to the United Kingdom. I would like to know how to get a 'certificate or origin' from the USA so I can register it in the UK. Ive contacted Nissan USA but they have been rather unhelpful. 1976 Blue Datsun 280Z VIN: HLS303114422 California Plate Number: 5WVN339 Can anyone help me with previous experience?? Many thanks, JD

Great, thanks, I dont mind the 'horsepower' behind, i just dont want to chuck it in and start bending valves! Cheers

Thank guys, sorry have been away on work. Check out the link below, it has everything Im missing.. Wondering if this would be a straight swap.... What do you guys think? Many thanks JD http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1983-Datsun-280ZX-Turbo-Camshaft-Clean-Nice-with-Sprocket-/222640225402?hash=item33d6643c7a:g:fL4AAOSwa4FZtH

Hi all, Im currently reconditioning my L28e N42 in my 1976 280Z and have a bit of a problem. I took my head in to get re-conditioned, and i left my original camshaft with cam towers and chain sprocket in the boot of my daily driver, Rover P5b Coupe, which has since been stolen last week!!! So basically Im in need of a new camshaft but means i still need the towers/sprocket/bolts too. There is a Turbo Camshaft with towers on eBay which supplies all my needs, Im wondering if that will be a straight swap????. Ive had a look through forums and understand there is a difference between NA and Turbo camshafts however im wondering will the turbo one still work with none/minor tinkering?? Im trying not to over spend by getting a worked cam and then paying through the nose for the towers and sprocket which are very hard to source, especially that I live in the UK. Any advice would be great, or if you have a spare cam/towers/sprocket that works even better Cheers JD

Thanks guys, I went with Ring Engineering in West London,, they have found my problem, Cyclinder one valve seat was corroded to buggery. Will look forward to getting this back and start putting it back together. Also anyone got a spare stock camshaft with sprocket and mounts? I left mine in the boot of my Rover P5b and that got stolen last week. So down to one car now thats on blocks with parts missing! Speaking of which, I know its not Datsun but for all the UK users, if you see this old girl rocking around please alert me and the police, would love to get her back! 1972 Rover P5b 3500 Coupe, stolen from SW18 London around the 2nd Sept Cheers

Right, Ive decided to take a leap of faith and go the whole hog. Pistons are out, Sump is off, from timing cover is off. The rings seemed fine but there was a small water mark on the bore, and i slightly tired head gasket closest to the timing chain, which cold have suggested water getting through in the amount of time it has been sitting. Could be some of my problem there. Also the big ends are a bit tired so replacing those too. Gives me a good excuse to give the engine a good clean down and spruce up, just hoping it goes back together ok. Guys i need a full engine gasket set. Preferably here in the UK so I dont have to pay import tax and shipping! Also can you guys tell me the difference in L28 whether I need a 240Z/260Z gasket set or a 280ZX gasket set. Mines a 76 and i think im in a bit of a cross over when it comes to parts. Thanks

Hey team, Thanks for the replies, after going through what you guys had suggested and finding nothing out of the ordinary, I decided to run a compression test... (shouldve done this way earlier) to find no compression on cylinder one. I took the rocker cover off, the valves seem to move and seat fine. I used the compression testing kit and blew into the spark plug hole with the valves closed and could hear the air down the crank case. That has got to be bad rings right? After deciding to take off the head and inspect further, I found the exhaust manifold in no.1 totally covered with burnt fuel compared to other cylinders, See photo... seems like this has been the problem why she was overfuelling. Does this make sense all of my symptoms? All things going well i will drop the sump this weekend and try pull some pistons out!! Any tips on getting the sump out? I remember the sump in the L20et on my old skyline was a right dog to get out... Also any easy tips on whether the front of the block needs to be removed, water pump etc? thanks in advance JD

Cool, youtube is better..Thanks will check this out over the weekend.

Hey guys, managed to get a couple hours in after work tonight, and good news... Shes running. Pretty rough mind you, but I turned up the Idle, and both the cold start valve (21, 47) and thermotime wires (45, 46) were around the wrong way... My fault entirely from replacing the corroded and brittle clips back when I got it months ago. I have attached a photo of the engine bay, anything look unusual??? Trying to up load a video so you can see how rich shes running... pardon the boxes of Stella Artois, its me birthday on Saturday hahaha Again, vacuum hoses off and running better. Unsure... Thanks again guys. Feel back in love with it tonight!!! Cheers JD IMG_6761.MOV

I read on the forum that factory at idle was 36PSI (apologies not 32), and I bought a fuel pump that ran at 3 Bar pressure to match. My gauge in line reads that correct. Anyway I'll have a tinker this weekend and get back. Shes slowly gone from running, to running poorly, to sometimes running poorly, to now, not even running over the course of a couple weeks and me not touching it. Frustrating!!! I used to own a 280ZX that was so reliable and always started and ran like a dream, so Im definitely reluctant to go for carbs. Thanks again

Thanks for the replies guys. Ill will get around to it this weekend checking again over the sensors and readings. One quick one if you think its super rich, When I replaced the fuel pump I did away with the pressure regulator?? that is connected very close to the fuel pump. See photo attached. I assumed that my new 32PSI fuel pump matched that of factory so wouldnt need it. Do I need to put back in this factory part? Could that be some of my problem? Thanks in advance.

Hi all, I have recently bought a 280Z 1978 in London UK. It was an ex Cali car and from the license plate hadnt been driven since 2007. Ive spent the last couple months trying to get her to run right, however She went from initially running a bit rich/smokey to now not running at all. Ive replaced the fuel pump as the old one was dying on acceleration (Installed a fuel pressure gauge). Ive replaced all normal things, spark plugs, oil, etc. The loom was very corroded so I have replaced the injector plugs with new ones, making sure to keep the right wire numbers/code from the handbook illustration.The AFM has been siliconed shut as in it has been perhaps tinkered with before. However I have diagnostic tested it and all readings read are that of factory. All readings from the ECU are fine. I have a vacuum leak somewhere, as is sometimes runs when all the hoses are off, if i go to reconnect say the breather hose back on to the rocker cover it just dies. Im stumped on that one.Starting to get really frustrated and have even thought of ripping out the F.I and chucking in some old carbs off a 240 or even still, breaking the bank and going with triple webers! Obviously this is not the desired outcome I just want the bloody thing to go!Any help would be great as like everyone here, I want to enjoy her, especially now that summer is here!Thanks JD