auvelas

Pm sent

Interested for the rollbar... shipping to 90275 and price.. it maybe a hassle shipping but will not require special package. Lmk

Pictures please. Interest in maybe roll bar. MSA sells the autopower one. They make 2 different bars.

Quick update guys... rewired everything that connectsto to alternator and new diode. New grounds and rechecked power connectors. Alternator was still giving me issues. It turned out every time I tested alternator it passed test. From AutoZone, O'Reilly to Napa. They all tested PASS.. I bought new alternator and Voila !!! It was bad alternator from the start. The test bench passed them but i believed with load and revs above 3k RPM the alternator was faulty. Test bench test has minimal load, rpm less then 2.5 I guess if anyone has issues like me and all connectors are clean and done correctly just buy new alternator.

I appreciate your input guys thank you. I have done all of what you recently suggested Dave I will circle back to original wiring and redo wires and diodes. Hopefully its my diode or bad ground somewhere.

That is what i did from my first email requesting SOS. I just dont have pictures showing the connections to the b/w to w/b , Y to W. I think i will do another diode with the common one most use 1n5402 and see wha happens.

Its basically the only 2 wires needing modification. Everything else was not needed and just wrapped. BAT and Earth was also straight forward.

No tech tip. The wiring looked simple enough to do my own. The picture provided is the T shaped plug for the SL.

Attach is a picture of wires being used. The diode in place is 1n5406. If you notice how the line of diode faces alternator plug. Many sites show diodes with different #s and now i wonder if that is the problem. I know for certain this diode does stop current being i tested wiring with no diode and car continued running with ignition off.

I will get pictures by tonight. I will say i followed the MSA wiring but instead of the adapter i simply modified my harness by pulling out the wires needed and doing the same wiring. Guys, what i dont get is when everything is connected voltage is low and should be high 13 to 14 from alternator. I rev motor and alternator makes loud noise. Almost like belt is making noise but its not. It specific to alternator because when negative terminal is disconnected the noise goes aways and alternator sound normal and voltage range goes to 13/14. The battery and alternator tested and fully charged by the way.

Im new to forum and new to the 240z. Recently purchased a 71 240z bone stock L24. Im upgrading the 60amp alternator and have followed the DIY. Seemed easy and straightforward. Tested alternator to ensure its working well. Tested battery also good. I modified harness and eliminated old regulator and covered harness socket. L to 12v source via fusible link white wire and S to b/W (SWITCH 12V) with diode. Diode line faces alternator. Everything good so far. Here is what happens. Tested while running with volt meter battery and read 12.6 (not good) I remove negative cable from battery and it reads 14.5(good) the alternator sounds different meaning regulator is put to work. I connect negative cable back on and voltage drops back to 12.6 something happens with that battery ground. I dont get it. Please help you Z experts.