Jeff Berk
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Everything posted by Jeff Berk
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Those tail lights are very cool.
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I've had a dash cover in my cart for about a week in anticipation. Its either going to be installed or used as a form to make a leather dash cover (attempt #2).
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I'm answering my own question, I just got a 10% sale announcement from Z Car Depot THIS FRIDAY 11/29 TAKE 10% OFF YOUR ORDER FOR OUR ANNUAL BLACK FRIDAY SALE! DISCOUNT IS AUTOMATICALLY APPLIED AT CHECKOUT
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Hey All, Is there anything Z related on sale this week worth looking at? Jeff
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This is a long thread so hopefully this hasn't already been addressed. The Japanese battle flag on the inside of the hood... Is that painted on or is it a vinyl film? I wanted to cover my hood's underside with a printed graphic but I'm concerned about heat damage. I know my engine compartment get really hot.
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Here's an update. I finally got to an Autocross last weekend to try out the LSD. I was delayed by a brake issue that kept my 260z up on blocks for a few months. The thermistor I installed in the differential drain plug did not show a significant heat buildup during the autocross. The temperature reached about 110F. The interesting part was that during the drive to the event, I drove at 70-80 mph for about 45 minutes. That built up a temperature of 230F. The KAAZ tech warned me that above 200, the oil will begin to break down. I may need to install that finned diff cover which unfortunately means I need to modify some other components to get it to fit.
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So far so good... I took the Z out for an autocross event last weekend and the brakes worked and didn't leak. I also talked to my local Z mechanic that I fall back on when I get stuck and he commented that if I'm not driving my car in harsh conditions, I likely didn't even need the boots. He said that his cars with Wilwood brakes don't use them and sure enough, when I looked up Wilwood rebuilding kits, boots are not included.
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Would anyone be willing to do a 3D scan of the convex side of one of these? I think I can create a left and right mold from this to try to vacuum form these. Scanning can be easily done using a cell phone with the free version of the KIRI Engine app installed (https://www.kiriengine.app/ ).
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The asking price for this part seems very lofty. If I can find one that I can scan or use to make a mold, I think I can churn out a few possibly using a vacuum form method. I've never did a vacuum form (excluding back when I used a toy in the 60's), but I have a unit available nearby.
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This was a April 1974 260z so I would of thought that it would of also been on some of the 240z's. If its part No. 63830-N3600 and 63831-N3600, then it looks like you are correct that its a 260/280z part. Maybe that will make it easier to locate. I think the part I'm looking for is 64186-N3600 and 64187-N3600 that is identified as part 80 on the diagram. BTW: I finished my caliper rebuild so after nearly 2 months of waiting on some parts, I can drive this thing for a few weeks before it goes into hibernation.
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I came to the realization that there should be a panel in both front wheel wells that covers the rear of the headlights. Looking at the attached photograph, there are at least three mounting holes circled in red. Does anyone have a photograph of this part? I tried to visualize it using the Futofab site but there wasn't a clear image of it.
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My son's Lotus is starlight black which is also metallic like your coupe. There seems like an almost endless pallet of colors in matt to gloss, metallics, and color change in vinyl. 3M has the identical black metallic in vinyl: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CCFX5YNN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 I think the primary reasons for going with vinyl wrap is to try a new color, add an optical property not readily available in traditional paint, and to protect the underlying original paint. It also can be applied without a paint room You just need a relatively dust free setting and a few inexpensive tools. Lots of practice helps.
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I think that rubbery stuff was common on this side of the world maybe 20 or so years ago. My car was repainted in the early 1980's and that chip guard coating was used behind the rear wheels. My son and I have wrapped two cars. Wraps have a finite life of perhaps 3-5 years depending on the quality of the wrap and how much exposure to the sun it experiences. Wrap can chip get scratched, pealed, etc. Wrapping the headlight buckets is difficult to say the least. Wrapping a portion of a car with clear is common and effective but It too degrades with age. My son's '05 Lotus had to have its clear protective coating pealed off in small pieces and it left marks behind.
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Would something like this help in diagnosing the problem? This particular one has gotten mixed reviews due to flimsy construction but I think there are a few others out there. If shortening the cable with this works, they you could cut and install a turn buckle. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-brake-cable-adjuster-universal-03006/5014557-P
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ZH, That's a picture I pulled off the internet for reference. I wanted to know if he could move the arm shown in the photograph manually. Jeff
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The spring is likely stiff but can you move the arm on the caliper that the cable attaches to?
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He is also very friendly. I just contacted him about getting a few of these dust shield retainers. At about $20 each, they are not cheap but for the effort to make them, its just worth buying. I found his wooden bicycle wheel writeup interesting. I have some bicycles older than my Z (Peugeot PX10E).
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Yup, that's what I have. I'm e-mailing e-za@vintagecraft-e-za.com to arrange purchasing 4 more rings since I only have enough to do one of the two calipers.
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Well an update... I can only find 4 of the clips. So much for autocross this year.
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I'm impressed by all the responses. First, part 4 is labeled as a "piston seal". I included a photograph showing the old one on the left. On the right is the old dust seal with the metal ring inside. I mistakenly assumed it was a retaining clip. I need to clean them up but at least the couple I looked at this morning look serviceable. I am also assuming that the dust seals likely came with these retaining rings back when Nissan supplied them. I had to purchase an aftermarket set because that's all I could find. I really want this put together by tomorrow so I can register for my first autocross of the year this weekend.
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Looking at this diagram, it shows a dust boots that go over the pistons and rests on the inside surface of the caliper (Part 5). The original boots were held on using a wire spring clip. I'm assuming the clip is not needed since its not shown and the dust boot will seal well enough just resting on the caliper even as the pistons move in and out. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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The parts are finally being shipped so that I can rebuild the brakes. In the process I learned a bit about purchasing through the Japanese sites Jauce (brake pads) and Amayama (4 pistons and seals). Mostly that fees can be far greater than the cost of the parts for the Jauce action site. Note $0.0068 dollar to 1 yen. Amayama was reasonable with fewer line items.
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I just looked at my car and compared the grill radiator assembly with those sown on Carpartsmanual.com and my car definitely has the early version. I wonder if the holes in the later splash-board were added to address loosing screws and washers while working under the hood? I might cancel that order as it hasn't shipped yet and wait out a splash-board that will fit without modification.
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The big question is can I, through minor modifications, make the splash pan fit?
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The only difference that was apparent to me from the photographs was that the later version had a large hole, presumably to reach the radiator drain ****. It would be really helpful to see the difference and to know if they are similar enough so I can get away with the 280z version.
