Jeff Berk
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Everything posted by Jeff Berk
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I think we are drifting off topic but good reading in any event. -
I'm tracking down sources of rear end noise in my early '74 260Z. So far I identified a loose stabilization bar link. I also noticed while the car is in motion that the threaded rod protruding out of the top of the right rear strut has some minor movement associated with it while the driver's side one does not move. The three bolts securing the top of the strut are properly tightened. As far as I can tell, the strut's upper end is held in place under spring tension. Is there anything I can (or should) do to keep it from moving around? Note that the struts and springs were replaced not too long ago but by the same monkey that was riding around in the trunk.
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Dutchzcarguy I'm still working on it. I'm either going to weld some metal on the new wheel's center to give something to drill into or I'm going to make a an adaptor. I'm waiting for the welder at my local maker space to get back in town next week. Jeff
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Dead spot in steering, where to look?
Jeff Berk replied to Jeff Berk's topic in Suspension & Steering
I guess maybe I need to start at getting an alignment. The tie rod ends and ball joints don't seem to have any play in them. How does one find a "good" wheel alignment shop? Do I trust a shop like Goodyear or Firestone? There are not many independents around now. I tried to adjust the toe in using two aluminum 2 x 4 plates with slot cut in them for a tape measure. Doesn't sound as precise as laser-based alignment methods. -
My steering seems to wander in the center position. Where should I start looking to resolve this? I replaced the struts and springs and toed the wheels in a little but the problem persists. With the car standing still, moving the steering wheel doesn't seem to show any slack in the under-hood couplings Should I take it to a shop with an alignment rack and if so, would they even know what to set it at since it has a non-standard wheel size and lowering springs?
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I'm surprised that the battle flag decal can withstand the engine compartment heat. I was planning sometime in the future to do an airbrush space painting featuring a Z but I need some practice.
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Most dreaded of jobs finally on the horizon ? the fuel tank !
Jeff Berk replied to Killain's topic in Help Me !!
I did my tank a couple of years back and my early '74 260z did not have that intake screen. The cleaning and coating went off without an issue. I used a pound or two of steel nuts and sloshed them around inside the tank to help remove the rust. I'd say the toughest job is definitely the pins holding the rear suspension in place. -
Dutchzcarguy Thanks for the frank input. It wasn't too expensive to order a new one so I'm going to replace it Maybe I can get it right this time if the problem was an installer error. Jeff
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No, not beat up. Just some grease, grime, bad picture. I won't say I didn't install it backwards. I cannot recall which way I installed it. This was the first time I installed a clutch so maybe I screwed up. I have a lot of firsts with this car. I'm getting really good at replacing transmissions (unfortunately).
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This was McLeod part no. 763701. The TSR at McLeod said it was an installer issue. : \ In the pics you can see the outer edge is glazed on one side and the inner edge is glazed on the other side. Holding a straight edge across the pads shows that the disc is cupped. Rock Auto shows an m-pact that should fit. I had to contact M-Pact directly to get the product number because it didn't show up on a Rock Auto search by car type (99536ST2) HD Ceramic Hi-Torque 6 Puck Assembly, 8-7/8" X 1" X 24T
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Hi I had a McLeod clutch kit installed about 5-years ago but only put maybe 2-3K miles on the car and it is shot. That was using my 5-speed transmission which I just switched out to a 4-speed last year. Hopefully, whatever caused the issue with the clutch will be corrected now. From the looks of the wear, it seems that the disc was cupped slightly. McLeod only sells replacement discs for some of their American car products. Is there any reason why I couldn't just replace the disc with one from another manufacture? If so, any suggestions? Thanks Jeff
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I found this comparison on the classicZcars site and it looks like my replacement wheel is off a 280z while my older wheel was from a 240z. I really prefer the 240z hub with my 280z wheel so I think I'm going to try and adapt it. Thanks for the input.
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I just installed my real wood steering wheel in place of my simulated wood wheel and ran into a glitch. The wheel fits but not the hub and horn. If you look at the attached photos, the old wheel has a pair of holes on either side of the steering wheel shaft to hold the horn mechanism. The padded hub then snaps onto the horn mechanism. The wood wheel has a larger padded hub that clips onto three bolts threaded into the holes. I'm considering carving a center hub and incorporating a wireless horn button or designing an adapter to accept the old horn button. Any suggestions?
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Blitzed... Glad it worked for you. The Remflex gasket saved me from having to machine the exhaust flange.
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I based the steering wheel design on: https://www.mgexp.com/article/diy-wood-steering-wheel-part-1.329 Its black walnut with bloodwood trim, all treated with cactus juice heat-activated epoxy. I'm still working on the center "coin".
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I put the "wood" steering wheel on my 260z but it was too thin for my tastes. I purchased an old Nissan wheel with heavily deteriorated foam covering and made a black walnut steering wheel out of it.
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I had a mechanic that used remote listening devices like the one on Amazon and he did a great job of finding a rattle with it. I'm a bit surprised that they go for $100 or so as I thought they would be pricier. I was going to just live with all the noises from my Z but this give me a whole lot more I can tinker with.
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Reading through this thread is like reliving my transmission nightmare about a year ago when my 5-speed failed and after buying a trashed 5-speed, I ended up with a 4-speed just to get my '74 back on the road. I later purchased a 5-speed out of a pickup which appears to be identical to my old 5-speed and was well taken care of. I might get around to installing it but I find that I rarely need 5th speed. BTW: I tried repairing a 5-speed using parts from a 4-speed and it worked, kind of. The gear noise sounded like I was using straight cut gears.
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I had an issue with my exhaust flange being warped. My mechanic used an extra thick manifold from Remflex that sealed the leak.
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Bolt holes between intake bolts: Threading?
Jeff Berk replied to Jeff Berk's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
One of the PO's installed a crate 280 engine so that explains the extra bolt holes. -
Bolt holes between intake bolts: Threading?
Jeff Berk replied to Jeff Berk's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Thanks for checking Steve -
Bolt holes between intake bolts: Threading?
Jeff Berk replied to Jeff Berk's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
I circled the two bolt holes I plan on using.
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There are a number of unused, threaded holes between the bolts that hold the intake/exhaust onto the head. I need to attach a fuel rail bracket to the engine and I wanted to use a couple of these unoccupied holes. They seem to accept an M10x1.5 bolt; however, it only goes a turn and a half in and then stops. I don't want to force it and strip the threads so can someone confirm what size these holes are tapped to? It's not a 1.25 pitch as that doesn't even begin to thread on.
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Looking for Carb ifuel inlet and banjo fitting
Jeff Berk replied to billgtp's topic in Carburetor Central
Last year I removed my banjo bolts and installed some braided hose junk. Now you made me feel bad... : ( -
I like the clean engine compartment. Thanks for the picture. It looks like you used the intake manifold bolts to mount the extrusion. I'll likely do the same but come up with a thermal break somehow.
