Jeff Berk

I was redoing my '74 260z interior in leather and so far have the seats, door panels, and center console completed. The problem is that my supplier, J-F Customs in the UK, sent a dashboard cover that I think is for a 240z. The most apparent issue is that the ignition switch hole was moved lower a few inches lower in the 260z. A 240z owner on this site has successfully used J-F so I figured I was safe buying it. J-F Customs has been responding to my e-mails that they are designing the correct cover for my dash but that's been going on now for weeks. Now they don't respond at all. Where I can use help is that I'd like a local leather smith to replace the panel that includes the ignition hole but I'd like to know if there is anything else that has changed between the 240z and early 260z dashes? Jeff

Ruggable is sending me a sample piece to try out. My replacement carpet slides around and I could see it getting caught under the brake at some point. If Nissan sold this car today, I think it would be recalled for the carpet being a safety hazard. Thanks for posting this find. Jeff

If you cannot find it, try to do it yourself. If you still have the old one, you can use it as a template.

When you said you are getting it back on the road, does that mean you've never personally had it on the road? If you have driven it before, did you ever need the choke? Are you planning any engine modifications that could make starting more difficult? I have to use my choke for starting my 2.8L with SU's even in summer.

You might want to contact a local Toyota dealer and arrange for them to check the car over with them reporting directly to you with their findings.

I guess the question is why delete the choke at all?

I'd just say that the first flare was practice.

I've took advantage of the weak British pound and purchased some leather interior parts from the UK. I installed the door covers this past weekend and will do the center console next with the dash sometime this winter. The leather panel cover looked plain so I added some quilting to it using a sewing machine I barrowed from the library and 1/4 and 1/2 inch foam. The panel looks OK but I need to try and get some wrinkles out with some heat and leather conditioner. I also need to get the door latch straightened out and find a replacement plastic chrome piece for the top of the door pull. (Anyone have a used one they want to part with?)

Thanks, now I feel OK with keeping the SUs and not dropping another $750 into the engine.

I felt a little deflated when I first saw my 260Z because according to the documentation, the car once was equipped with triple Webers. By the time I got it, the Webers had been replaced with round-top SUs. The SUs are working fine and I rebuilt them a couple of years ago with components from Z-therapy. The engine is a bored 280, with non-stock pistons, cam, headers, etc. so I thought the SUs might be limiting the engine. The SUs are so simple that I don't know if I should consider them elegantly designed or an overly simplistic approach to carburetor design. I've rebuilt typical American carburetors in the 70's so I am comfortable with complex carburetors that lack an oil dip stick. I don't race the car except for autocross which I've not done since before Covid. I'm a little stretched for funds but there is a local Z owner doing an LS swap that is getting rid of some components and is asking a reasonable price for a dual weber conversion kit: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/820044696097399?hoisted=false&ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aa9e2d1ce-a84b-4e85-a9e8-cbcbc87462d8 I'm low on funds because I just spent $800 on leather door panel, center console, and dash covers. All this leather smells good, definitely better than the mildew odor when I first got the car. Most of the mildew odor went away when I pulled out the shag carpeting. But I digress.

Thanks Mark. I purchased 1/4-inch "scrim foam" after viewing the technique on sailrite.com. I've got the foam glued and stitched onto the leather and will be sewing the diagonals hopefully tomorrow. I like the burlap idea but the scrim foam saves a step.

I likewise went with Interior Innovations and chose to go with black with red stitching and Z emblem to tie in with the red exterior. I'll be doing leather door, dash, shifter boot and center console over the next few months but had to go with J-F customs since Interior Innovations didn't have the measurements to do the dash. I'll be spending a lot of time on the door panels because it looks like to match the diagonal pattern on the originals, I'll need to learn how to sew foam-filled channels on the leather and figure out how to patch the speaker holes a PO cut in the door card.

I wonder how many trailer hitches Brock sold (page 19)?

Although tempting to try and reverse engineering this, I think I'm going to just buy a few to keep in my tool compartment behind the seats as a just in case item.

I just received this from the inventor/distributer: Hello Jeff, sorry for the delay The members discount is “value15”. This will save members 15% off the entire order. Thank you

I suspect that the metal clips are extruded so I have no idea how to make something like this.

I communicated your concern with the manufacture. Note that I have no relationship financially or otherwise with him. He said that he would get back to me with a price break for club members. I'll post the details at that time.

It might be handy to have a few of these on hand in case you need a fuse and don't have the correct glass fuse on hand. It will also be handy to use with a fuse buddy to track down issues with popping fuses. https://www.thingsnotable.com/

I isolated the noise to two bolts holding the differential to the mustache. I'm slowly working my way through all the noise sources. Soon all that will be left is that buzzing from the electric fuel pump.

There are a number of postings on covering dashboards in leather but they are a few years old. J.F. Customs on E-bay has a kit. I don't know how well it fits. Interior Innovations (I have their leather seat covers) told me that they would be interested in making them but don't have the measurements. What are z-owners using now? thanks Jeff 1974 260Z 2-seater

I don't understand what the AC has to do with the turn signal fuse. Just wondering, is this an original Nissan AC or did someone install an aftermarket one at a later date, possibly with wiring something related to the AC to the turn signal circuit?

Have you noticed that most of my quotes show I edited them shortly after I posted them?

On my 260z there are also two flasher relays. Hazard relay: black with yellow wire and a green with white wire Turn signal relay: white wire and green wire.

Might be a job for a "Fuse Buddy". I'm not sure if they make one that will connect with a glass tube fuse. This would tell you the draw on the circuit so you can tell if you are always very close to the 10 amps or if certain conditions trigger the over amp condition. I was having similar issues shortly after purchasing my car. For a while I had so many fuses blown on one of my circuits that I replaced the glass fuse with a breaker. If I recall correctly, I changed all my bulbs to LEDs and installed turn signal relays to lessen the amp load and that fixed (or hid) the issue. I had also rewrapped most of my wiring harnesses and discovered in the process several damaged wires and many ground wires from different components connected to a single ground wire. This was concerning because the single wire might not be able to handle the load from this old car. The circuits in your car has more resistance than when it was new. That turn signal stalk likely is a point of high resistance from close to 50 years of arcing and it may be time to flip the contacts over to a clean side. The wiring harness connectors are also likely in need of cleaning. Electrical issues are not fun to track down but a part of owning a classic.

No more noise, no more bees, and as far as I can tell, all good. Plus, I think I successfully rebuilt that ancient Hein Werner jack I use to remove my transmission.