Jeff Berk

The only reason I'd DIY the mount is that I like to find a reason to use the metal shop I have access to and to make whatever parts I can for my Z. Looks like this will have to wait, just found out my camshaft needs replacing (ouch).

Could someone that has, or is knowledgeable about the Ron Tyler differential mount look at the dimensions of the mount on the listed URL and verify that it is valid for a Z application with an L28 engine/R200 differential? The mount was originally designed for a Chevy V8 conversion so I'm concerned that it might alter the driveshaft angle and put stress on the universal joint. I'm planning on building one using Alteredz.com as a guide. I'm assuming that RT has not patented his design. http://alteredz.com/drivelinemods.htm

Working on your Z in the kitchen. You must have a very understanding spouse.

Impressive work space. I had to get a 4-post lift to store my Z. It looks like you have room for several more. Good luck with your little project and I'm glad to see one more Z saved from the scrap yard.

I’m having a high idle speed issue. I’m running between 1,600 and 2,100 rpm. Prior to this, my 74z with a modified 280z engine running a pair of SU’s was having starting problems and would sometimes stall and idle somewhat slow. I decided to try and adjust the carb’s using https://zcarguide.com/tuning-adjusting-datsun-240z-su-carburetors/ Because one of the fist things to do was to check the spark plug condition and gap, I installed a new set of plugs. I’ve never adjusted the timing because I cannot find the timing mark (I have a gun and I know how to use it). I set the idle screws all the way out and then backed them in 1 ½ turns. Then it started right up with minimal cranking, but the rpm is too high. To get a balanced air flow from the pair of SU’s, I had to turn in the rear and back out the front SU’s idle screws. Doing so maintained the high rpm. There was a small vacuum leak from one of the ports on the vacuum balance tube that I stopped with some Teflon tape on the M10-1.0 bolt the PO installed. I couldn’t find any other leaks between the carburetors and engine/intake manifold. The fast idle adjust screw is out all the way. The vacuum activated dashpot between the carb’s not pulling the throttle open and the choke cables are disconnected. Could I be missing a vacuum leak or could the timing be too advanced? If so, how do I go about re-making TDC on the harmonic balance?

I replaced the tank straps with stainless steel, but I had access to a free source of material and a community metal shop to cut them and make the end fittings so I was able to do it on the cheap. I also replaced several of the hoses because I found them to be hard. Braided fuel grade hoses are available by the foot because some German cars appear to use them. Make sure all your replacement hoses are fuel safe.

Does anyone make a replacement plastic end? Anyone try and print one on a 3-d printer or mill one out of aluminum? My short linkage is a little longer than the SS replacement being sold on e-bay and I wasn't able to get the seller to respond concerning a custom length. I figure a used one may or may not be better than what I have already. Jeff

Steve, I decided to run a temporary wire to test the pump and to get the car running again with the intention of removing, inspecting, and re-wrapping the wiring harness over the winter. I re-wrapped several of the other wiring harnesses in the Z and found several melted wires that way. It turns out that the new pump works on the temporary wire but I wasn't getting enough pressure to easily start the car. That was resolved by replacing the mechanical fuel pump this past weekend. Thanks for the input. Jeff

Hi all, My electric fuel pump is not getting power. There is power in the black/white wire off of the 2nd relay and I can trace power to the body harness connector next to the right side of the passenger seat. From there, it should go back to the pump but it never makes it. There is also no continuity from the body harness connector to the fuel pump connector. Given the option of either pulling out the wiring harness from under the interior panels or just splicing in a wire at the body harness connector and running it to the pump, which would be better? How much of the interior would have to be yanked to uncover the defective harness? Note that the car still runs with just the mechanical fuel pump but the pressure is less than 2 psi and the engine is running rough. 260z February 1974

You might want to read this. Then after getting it to work, install a relay for your headlights. http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/blinker-detail/

But the hose with the 180 degree bend (or two 90's) goes on the top tank connector passenger side, through the grommeted hole and to the vapor expansion tank. If that is correct, I got the wrong diameter hose somehow.

So the hose goes from the the left side of the tank, across the two tail lights assemblies to the evap tank and not the port on the top right of the tank? (Hose #6 in the illustration? )

I'm confused about where a hose goes or if I got the wrong hose for my tank. The attached 3 pictures showing the hose, an illustration of the hoses (I think this is hose #5), and a photo of my tank with the connector circled. I think this is the right hose for this connector but the hose diameter is <1/2 inch and the tank port is maybe 5/8th inch. Where should this hose actually go? My car is a Jan' 74 260z.

I guess I wasn't clear. I'm not replacing the unit but I'm unsure which way to put the old one back in after dropping the fuel tank to coat it inside. I'll look for that set screw assuming that limits travel up. Worse comes to worse, if I put it in upside down, I should be able to flip it without having to remove the tank a second time.

Looking at this picture: https://zcardepot.com/collections/fuel-sending-units/products/fuel-tank-sending-unit-oem-240z-260z-70-74 Is this sending unit right side up? I took mine out when I removed the tank for cleaning/coating and cannot remember which way the unit goes. I need to learn to take more pictures when I take things apart. Jeff

I purchased my Z in NJ but live in OH. I was planning on driving the Z back to Ohio but was convinced to tow it. It turned out that the clutch was on it's last leg and it never would of made it. You cannot assume the seller knows of hidden issues. There are so many things that could be a problem. Get a truck/trailer or be prepared to have it towed 300 miles. Don't forget to call Hagerty to get it insured.

If you want to keep the same look as an original radio, you can look at Retrosound brand radios. I had holes already in my doors for speakers and a second set of speakers a PO installed in custom made wood enclosures in front of the shock towers in the rear. I removed them to modify them and was able to access the time capsule in one of the two tool compartments that was blocked from them. An old package of camel cigarettes.

This just popped up on my news feed from Jalopnik https://jalopnik.com/what-a-lifelong-z-mechanic-thinks-of-nissan-today-1830083808 It's nice to see that places are still out there that specializes in Z's. No bad there's no place like that in NE Ohio. Great discussion of the history of sports cars at Nissan.

I'll have to try some of that down-hill engine braking. With that low-restriction exhaust it'll sound great! From some paperwork I have dated 1986 (1 year after "restoration") the 260Z has a '78 280Z block with a 280Z fuel injected head that was installed at that time. From some other paperwork, the 280 engine was new. The paperwork says It was ported, milled (?) , "trick" valve job (?), the block was bored 20 over. There was something about the pistons in the paperwork but I cannot find that now. As you can tell by the question marks, I don't know what some of these upgrades are but I suspect they could impact compression. The car had 61,000 miles at that time and now has 75,000 so there shouldn't be much wear on the engine since then. I need to check the calibration of the gauge but that was a loaner gauge. I ordered one and will look into a way of checking it's calibration. Jeff

We had nice weather so I warmed up the Z and retested the compression. 1) 125 2) 125 3) 125 4)130 5)123 6) 128 I had warmed up the engine but by the time I got to doing the test it cooled down a bit.

Grannyknot: I did not have the SU's held open. Is that needed to minimize restriction to the intake valves? I'll keep that in mind for when I get a new compression tester. The engine likely has good compression because it is relatively low milage.

I double checked the "mouse trap" springs and all were good. I replaced the valve cover and tried to run a compression test using a gauge I borrowed from a parts store. Cyl 1 read 145 pounds. The gauge then stopped working at that point and would not hold a pressure on any subsequent tests including on cylinder 1 so I returned it and got another gauge from a different store. It read 90 psi on all cylinders including cylinder 1. I'm assuming it was a bad gauge so I'm holding off on a wet test until I can find another gauge and work out a way of testing a gauge against a tire pressure gauge.

I think I got this now. I watched a video that was very helpful: I found that using a socket wrench to rotate the engine (thanks to the video) seemed to work great after I realized I needed to take the car out of gear ; ) Thanks for the help guys.

I just picked up a feeler gauge and I could stuff the 0.008 under perhaps 3 of the cams. The rest were too tight to squeeze any of feelers in. I suspect that I'm either doing something really wrong or the engine was far out of adjustment. I'm going to do a criss cross directory search on Chambers Cams on Monday when I can reach a library with a set of Hays chris cross directories. thanks Jeff