Jeff Berk

I haven’t checked my clearance yet; however, I pulled the valve cover and went through the stack of receipts, letters, and post-it notes that were given to me with the car and here’s what I have: 1) receipt from Z Center of Clifton N.J. to PO RS (I'm using the PO's initials) for swapping a cam, valves, etc. dated 5/1986. 2) list of vehicle modifications that indicates the installation within the past year of a High Midrange CAM with anti-float HIPO springs RPM Range 4200-7200 dated 7/1986. 3) receipt from Z Center for installing a customer supplied cam and set geometry dated 5/1988. 4) letter from Motorsport Industries of Orange, CA recommending in response to PO TV (yes, a new owner) inquire to install either a 10-2002 or at the far extreme a 10-2003 camshaft dated 2/1993. 5) Undated specification card and receipt (no purchaser listed) for a Chambers Cam arse 339i with cold clearances of 0.010 and 0.012 for the intake and exhaust. I've attached an annotated photograph showing the camshaft a a closeup of the Chambers Cams card. Can anyone identify this camshaft? Also, why would the "Chambers Cams" carb only list old clearances? I tried looking up Chambers Cam arse 339I but the first and only interesting hit was about Tiffany Chambers's arse. Apparently a porn star.

I was going to check/adjust my valves for the first time but I was wondering, a previous owner installed a racing cam. Does that mean that I need to use a different setting for the intake and exhaust valves? 280 engine with lots of PO modifications installed in the 1980's Round-top SU's Mallory electronic ignition

Bob, Before you take my advice, please be aware that when I activate my windshield washer, my radio turns off. Looking at both ends of the wiring harness, one end terminates at the junction box and it's impossible to plug the wrong plugs together. The other end has lots of connectors but I'm wondering if the six contact plug behind the ignition switch might be flipped. Jeff

If you disconnect the fuel line in the engine compartment and run the pump, is there any fuel spraying out? If so, borrow a pressure meter from Autozone and check it. One issue I'm having is the fuel pickup periodically clogs. I eventually will have to drop and clean up the fuel tank.

Yup, unilite. Sorry about the pictures not being available on the garage site. This thing is a lot of fun.

I'm playing around with a new (for me) diagnostic oscilloscope and I think I'm pulling too many kV's on the secondary wires. One potential cause appears to be related to too much resistance somewhere. The plug and coil wires test out OK (they are NGK's). The plugs were just cleaned and gap checked. I started wondering if I need to set the gaps smaller than the 0.8 - 0.9 to decrease the kV before arcing. The oscilloscope traces are here if you are interested: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404459

It says: PRICE: CALL FOR PRICE OK, who's going to call and let us in on the price? I like the use of Dymo embossed labels

https://jalopnik.com/whoever-buys-paul-newmans-championship-winning-datsun-2-1829584760

My wheel well is large enough for a 25.5" diameter tire but my spare is a space saver. Someone must of did a switcherooo. Too old to use but I know if there is any reason to save it. I'll look for a used spare '07 to '12 Nissan Sentra, thanks for the info.

I have a 260Z with an intact spare tire well, wheel, and a very old tire. Are these tires (collapsable spare) still avalable? If not, what should I be using as a spare? Tirerack dosen't have anything.

I installed the new unit. The old one tested fine the next day but I figured it cut out on me twice, it will do it again. I noticed that there are manufacturing date on stickers on the new and old units. The old unit was manufactured in December 2013. These things don't last very long do they? BTW: I gave up on the tow after they contacted me and was unable to give a revised ETA. I ended up with another towing service the following morning that arrived within 30 minutes with a flatbed. BTW 2: The Dunkin' people sent me home with a dozen donuts ; ) Must be my good looks.

Actually I’m still waiting on the tow truck here. It’s been 2 1/2 hours. The Dunkin’ Donuts people have felt so sorry for me that they keep feeding me.

Well I am now in a Dunkin donut parking lot and my Z is once again not starting. As luck would have it though I am across the street from an O’Reilly auto parts. They lent me a multi meter which I used to test the ignition module again. This time it failed. When I inserted a card to block the light from the LED, I had no voltage drop. I checked with Summit racing and they have the module there so I might be able to drive down there tonight and get this thing working again. In the meantime I’m having it towed back home again. Thank you Hagerty.

Could adjacent plugs mean a gasket breach between them?

Fixed it! I had a cap and rotor sitting around and once I installed the new ones, it started right up. The contacts didn't look all that bad on the old pair and the car ran fine up until it stopped working. I'll take it out for a few files once the weather clears up to see if we have a heat related issue. Thanks Zed Head and SteveJ for the advice.

I ran through the Unilite test procedure and There is 12 volts coming off the negative side of the coil. The voltage drops drops to 1 volt when a card blocks the LED. I think that means the ignition module is working. I remember that thread. I commented on it related to the availability of the Mallory cap and rotor. I've attached photographs of the distributor with the cap/rotor removed, the cap & rotor to show their condition, and the coil.

It’s beginning to come back to me from my auto shop class in the early 1970s when only Chrysler had pointless ignitions When the breaker points open or in this case When the electronic switch opens the circuit, that cuts the power to the coil causing the magnetic field to collapse and generate a very high voltage. I think we used to observe this on a Sun oscilloscope in auto class. Craigs list has a Snap On oscilloscope for $150 nearby me that I’m tempted to get but I’m not too sure I can figure out how to use it.

Thanks for the input. Am I correct in my understanding that the ignition module and coil are one in the same?

I started a short drive, in one mile I noticed the tachometer was bouncing around, especially on acceleration. At four miles I hear a lot of backfiring on engine braking. I stopped at an intersection, then the engine cut out and couldn't be restarted. I had full pressure, but no spark. It was flatbedded back home and now the fun begins. I'm confused where to start since the ignition has undergone an electronic upgrade using a Mallory coil and distributor. There are two ballast resistors one with three contacts and the one with two contact just below it. One wire from the upper (three contact) resistor connects to the lower resistor. The other end of the lower resistor connects to the positive side of the coil. The resistance across the lower resistor is 1.7 ohms. With the ignition on, I get 3.3 volts to the coil from the ballast resistor. I think the resistance is high and the voltage low (then again, what do I know) so I'm wondering if there is a problem with one or both resistors. I am also confused if a ballast resistor(s) is even needed with an electronic distributor. I was hoping to get in one more Solo event this year, so please point me in the right direction. Jeff 260z with many old performance upgrades. 280 engine/5-sp transmission

Thanks to all. Parts on ordered.

Until it runs with out the choke?

I found a 1/4 to -6 AN for the mechanical fuel pump (see photo IMG_1017)at https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3230 I'm surprised that the pump outlet is only 1/4-inch. The fuel regulator (shown in photo IMG_1016) already has an NPT pipe stuck in its outlet so should I assume it is truly an NPT in and out or that someone made it fit? What is a dead-head FP regulator? Yes, it's between the pump and the carbs.

I just came from Summit Racing in Tallmadge, OH and they have nothing in BSP. Earl's performance site is slim pickings as well as Jegs. So far some China suppliers on e-bay and Pegasus racing are my best options so far.

The line coming off the mechanical fuel pump is threaded as 1/8" and it leads to what I believe is the pressure regulator with a 3/8" inlet. The pressure regulator has a 3/8" outlet. I checked with ANPlumping.com and they no loner carry 3/8" BSP. Can anyone suggest a good source? I stopped by Summit Racing but they had nothing in BSP. Thank you zKars for the info on the banjo fitting. Jeff

What’s a “shaved” valve cover.