Jeff Berk

I think I might go to Summit Racing tomorrow and take a diagram of the layout and my threaded fittings and see if they can provide a list of what I need. I’m not sure if they a selection of limey thread.

I rearranged some items under the hood of my 260z and I need to replace several fuel hoses. I though I'd go with AN-6 instead of rubber hoses and worm clamps but I'm a bit confused on the connections. I'm assuming the threaded connections are all tapered BSP since the components are Japanese and nothing had O-rings. Because the vehicle traded hands a few times there is a strong possibility that some fittings (pressure regulator in particular) had NPT used where BSP should of been. If I use BSP now will that be a problem or will teflon tape fill the gap. It looks like there is a lot of pipe dope there now to seal the thread and it seems to have held up to the low pressure of the carbureted system. What is the best way of dealing with the banjo bolts? I've seen a few AN-6 banjo bolt ends. Any suggestions on which ones will work on a Hitachi SU? Thanks in advance for the help! Jeff

I did my own rebuilding but with ZTherapy parts. Their kit was much more expensive than others out there. It was also much more comprehensive and when I had some questions, they freely offered technical advice over the phone. The only complaint I have is that their video was a bit out of date. I'll be visiting them next time I rebuild my SU's.

Thanks for the detailed diagnostic decision tree.

I've got a '74 260z and I just realized that the electric fuel pump was not functioning, just the mechanical. I'm not getting power to the pump and have yet to test the pump by applying power directly to it. The double relay system in the car from the factory that uses the engine speed to kill the fuel pump seems like a complicated setup. Would I be better off switching to a combination oil pressure/fuel cutoff switch? It seems more straight forward and would offer protection if I lost oil pressure. My son wants me to install a fuel pump switch on the dash, but I think he likes the idea of having to flip switches. Jeff

OK, I got it off but I think I'm going to remove the window to make it easier to put back on. Thanks all for the input.

Is it possible to remove the lock and handle from the 260z's doors without removing the window & regulator? The FSM (pg BF-18) doesn't mention anything about removing the window but getting to the two bolts holding the handle and the clip attached to the lock cylinder seem to be inaccessible with the window in place. Note, I'm getting ready to wrap the car and need to pull this off to get a clean wrap. Jeff

My Z uses the 270/339 combination and I think they are still available. I called Mallory last Friday about determining which cap/rotor to use and they had me read them the part number on the distributor. To be sure you are getting the right cap and rotor, look for a 7 digit part number etched on the distributor tag just below one of the two cap retaining clips.

My Z uses the 270/339 combination and I think they are still available. I called Mallory last Friday about determining which cap/rotor to use and they had me read them the part number on the distributor. To be sure you are getting the right cap and rotor, look for a 7 digit part number etched on the distributor tag just below one of the two cap retaining clips.

I went with LEDs and they are great. I had to pop out the little domes covering the bulbs and then opening up the gauges to fish out the domes because my LED's were taller than the original bulbs. As per SteveJ, you need to replace the flasher relay. With the lower wattage, it also puts less stress on your old wiring system.

In my case, I think I'm going to go with the wrap. The last time my car was painted was in the 1980's but was very well done. The finish, however, is faded so I cannot touch up the paint without it sticking out like a sore thumb. The fade was also uneven so I cannot even get the paint "shot" to try and match. The car is garage stored and never goes out in the rain so I should be able to get reasonable life out of the wrap. I'm a few months away from attempting this so I'll keep you up to date on the progress.

that Hybridz post was excellent. I'm hoping to get a few more hints from him. It will be interesting to see how well the headlight buckets turn out.

I'm considering a vinyl wrap as an alternative to a repaint due to cost and a lack of a paint booth. Has anyone wrapped their vehicle and can offer suggestions on amount of wrap needed and any problem areas that I might encounter on a Series 1 Z?

CO: Yes, I had to swap parts around but the best I could do is was to get one moving freely and the other binding a little. Using the four screws to adjust the angle of the dome seemed to be what I needed. On a related topic, I find that I'm not able to distinguish rpm by ear as well as when I was younger. I have an old tachometer but it doesn't have a high range. Am I better off buying an analog (off of e-bay) or digital? Siteunseen: Thanks for the link. I'll read through it carfully ; ) Jeff

I think I got it now. I ended up tightening each of the four screws on the dome a little at a time, checking every 1/2 turn to make sure the piston moved freely until all screws seemed snug. Now time to try and tune it.

Response to Mark: Did they slide freely before the rebuild?<- Yes, Use a Sharpie pen on the piston. <-I'm assuming you mean to look for scuffs when I move the piston up/down? You might also try leaving the 4 screws slightly loose and gradually tighten them as the piston is being slid up and down. <- I need to hold the dome down or it will lift when I move the piston Did you try switching the pistons too? <-I'll try that maybe tonight. Response to 240260280 Remove needle and plunger, Install dome but with all 4 screws very loose and not touching dome, Rotate Dome CCW and CW while lifting and dropping piston to explore where it binds and does not bind. Put dome in middle of its free rotation limits. Turn down 4 screws so they just kiss the metal dome <- this is where I don't understand. The dome screw holes will only permit two orientations. Neither resolves the problem, even with the needle removed. Response to the Great CO: If the piston is sticking even without the needle installed, then it should stick even without the dome installed on the carb body. <- No, it freely moves without the dome but sticks with the dome. With that in mind... Did you try mixing and matching all the domes, pistons, and carb bodies? Maybe something got mixed up during the rebuild? <-That is a strong possibility. I've only tried switching the domes but not the pistons. I'll try that tonight. Did you accidentally drop a piston or a dome? <-not that I recall but if I can figure out how to mount the piston and dome on a rotating jig, I can use a precision micrometer to look for deformation. My next steps: 1) Switch the pistons and domes around in all combinations to try to isolate the problem. 2) Mark the piston with something that easily rubs off and figure out what is rubbing against what.

I rebuilt my pair of carb's using Z-therapy's kit. My rear carb seems to function correctly but the piston sticks and does not fall to the bottom in the front carb. I tried moving the orifice around to better center the needle but then out of desperation, removed the needle and it still is getting stuck so it's not the orifice or the needle causing the binding. I also tried switching the dashpot domes front and back and the front one still sticks. The piston moves freely only with the dome off. I've read where people say never to remove metal (e.g. sand) the dashpot dome and elsewhere where it is offered as a suggestion. Does anyone have an idea how I should resolve this? I was thinking of rubbing something on the internal surfaces and then seeing where it rubs off after forcing the piston up and down to figure out where it's binding. thanks Jeff

FYI... Thanks all After running it outside for a half hour, it stopped smoking so all the oils and anti seize must of burnt off. I was sure I screwed up something.

Thanks for the opinions. I replaced the gasket with I think a Felpro brand gasket. I think I used an antiseize everywhere so maybe that's where the smoke came from.

I did a lot of miscellaneous work on my 260z to get it ready for the Summer. I was ecstatic that it started after rebuilding the dome-top carburetors. While I was working on the carburetors, I removed the intake manifold to polish it up and coat it with a clear heat resistant paint. A minute or so after the car started, smoke from around the manifold gasket began to appear. I'm assuming I need to pull the intake and exhaust manifolds off and reinstall it but I'm not sure what I did wrong the first time. One thing I think I did wrong was to not use a torque wrench because it was difficult to reach the bolts. Are there any other pointers you could provide?

Looks like: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7646880&cc=1276398&jsn=__GIP__1__ is the closest (Toyota Land Cruiser) since it is the right length and is a M10 male/female; however the grove for the hose end clip is on the wrong end and I'd need to assume the thread is 1.0 pitch. I guess I can go with that if I cannot locate anything better. I wonder if the problem is with the banjo bolt fitting on my brake caliper. EDIT: I went to Summit Racing and they ordered Dorman Hydraulic Brake Hoses H381093 which I think is what will work.

It looks like the closest I can find is CENTRIC 15044303 which is a front hose for a Toyota Land Cruiser (1981). Unfortunately, there are no measurements provided so should I assume M10-1.0? I might try contacting Centric or one of the other manufactures to see if they can provide the specs. Or maybe a trip to Summit Racing.

My old brake lines from the banjo bolt fitting to the metal brake line at my front calipers are being replaced and I ran into this problem. At the banjo end the threading is M10-1.0 male while the end of my new line is a M10-1.0 female. The brakes are a four piston design so I'm assuming it's a Toyota upgrade. The new brake line is a Centric 150.42010 from Rock Auto. Did the Toyota caliper take a different flexible brake line than the stock 260z brake caliper? thanks

gwri8...If you are buying several Polyvance items, it looks like you are better off going directly to their web site where you get combined shipping.

I think the problem is that the product is not sold by Amazon so you need to pay the full shipping cost. I noticed that several of the Polyvance products have an erratic price history (www.camelcamelcamel.com) so you might consider setting an alert for a price drop if you want to use their system. Padded Dash Filler (B0002JKE6Y) Currently $24.99 but was $17.99 in January Plastic Magic (aerosol) (B0002JKE3M) Currently $25.95 but was 17.96 up until January.