Jeff Berk

I think most of the guide came from the web site: https://www.polyvance.com/280Z-Dashboard-Repair/ The video on the site does a great job. I couldn't afford Polyvance so I just used a flexible plastic filler from Autozone and then flocked the dash to hide imperfections. Some would say tacky, but I kind of like it. Jeff

CO: Not that much can go wrong...go wrong...go wrong, usually what happens is that I uncover something related that I want to do while I'm at it. Like replacing the differential's rear gasket only to realize it's attached to the cross member behind it. I'm assuming that I can extract the studs using two bolts on each stud to grip them but I think I'll pass this time and see if my half shaft seals were the source of the leak first. If I keep going with "while I'm at it, I might as well..." I'll not have the Z back together by the time the snow melts. Jeff

That did it! Thank you Zed Head, Patcon, DutchzGuy, and Namerow

yup... clean off the goo and you never know what you'll find. There was the allusive bolt hidden in the yoke. I could use some suggestion on how to get that little s*#t out of there. The 1/2 shaft wheel end is free to flop around so should I find some way of securing it in one place like attaching a pipe to it with two U bolts while I yank on the wrench? I'm worried that I'll just round the head of the bolt. As usual, the FSM shows a mechanic holding the shaft in one hand while turning the wrench with the other. Similar to the directions on removing the rear suspension spindle pin by pulling it out with two fingers. For the curious, I don't know if it is true, but someone on e-bay that is listing a single bolt shaft says: These half shafts or rear axle shafts as they are some times known were offered as an option beginning in '74 to reduce rear end vibration. They incorporate the the rear end stub flange into the half shaft eliminating the inside flange on each side of the differential. They are smoother running reduce axle weight and are COOL. He sent me the following pic for reference showing the two types of shaft ends:

I saw that pulling tool when I first looked up the procedure and thought I needed it to remove the shaft. So to confirm, to replace the seal I do not need to remove that plate, do not need the puller, but do need to remove the side yoke fixing bolt. What is the side yoke fixing bolt? Maybe I just need to clean up the differential to see it. Edit: I cleaned off the area around the half shaft to differential and I still cannot locate any bolts except the 5 noted above. What is really odd, when I look at WordWorkerb's site I see this for the 1/2 shaft to diff connection: It shows four flange bolts and I think a few of the five bolts I previously removed, albeit encrusted with gunk. I do not have flange bolts on that end of either of my 1/2 shafts. Only at the wheel end. I'm kind of stuck as to what to do next.

I'm back again with another question. I'm trying to pull the right half shaft out and I'm assuming that the plate with 5 bolts is holding the shaft from just falling out so I can get to the seal. You could see in the photograph the plate with three of the five bolts removed (other bolts are also out). The plate seems stuck. Should I pry harder or is there something else I need to do? Jeff

I'm pulling the half shaft since I already have the other end of the shaft disconnected to replace the strut. If you go to the site listed below, there are detailed instructions on seal replacement (with the differential removed from the vehicle) http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/replacing-oil-seals-r180-differential/

Thanks ZedHead. Just to be on the safe side, please look at these two photos and confirm that this is an R180 if you have a minute. I just want to be sure I purchase the correct part. From the looks of it, it has been leaking for some time so I'm likely going to drain what's left and refill. Any suggestion on what works best for a lube? GL5?

I have a 260z but I think the differential was switched out in the 1980's with an R200 differential. While replacing the strut on the right rear I noticed dried oil around the half shaft seal. I started looking up how to replace the seal and it looks there are several specialized tools needed. Is this a straight forward repair? I thought that all I needed to do is unblot it and yank out the shaft. Jeff

I'm in the process of building this tool. How well did it work for you? Also, has anyone considered adding grease fittings to prevent the spindle from getting stuck next time?

concerning Bulldog, if you plan on coating it then taking somewhere else to paint: "...Bulldog is effective up to 24 hours. If the sprayed part is left overnight, the basecoat can be applied with no issue. If the part is left longer than 24 hours it needs to be scuffed and tacked, again. Apply 1 light coat of Bulldog before applying basecoat." http://www.finishmaster.com/prod/assets/GBDS12326_QBDS12327_EBDS12328.pdf

I didn't think of looking at RockAuto. I'll go that route. No need for it even to be from a Z.

I am in need of a throwout bearing to build a spindle pin removal tool. As long as it can spin, I can use it. I am hoping to get one for the cost of shipping if possible. Thanks Jeff

I have one of those in my 260z but the lack of stereo was too much. I'm installing a modern radio in my glove compartment and a switch to go between the old and new radios. I had to use a relay to switch between speakers since speakers couldn't be wired both as mono and stereo at the same time.

Lumens... If you happen to have a '74 260Z manual you would like to pay forward, please contact me. There are a few sections of the on-line one that are too fuzzy to read. That or my eyesight is worse than I thought. (My mom told me to stop but I wouldn't listen.)

Siteunseen: I already ordered the gasket from an on-line source. My local dealer is very unresponsive. I have a big bottle of anti-seize but I'm sure I'll never have to remove those bolts again (yea, right...). I'll likely work on rebuilding, polishing and clear-coating my carb's while I wait until for the gasket to arrive. Thanks to you and everyone else for help. Who know that a simple post "Is removing my intake manifold risky" would generate so much response. One more question about a hose connection on the front carburetor. There is an inlet shown in the center of this image (stolen from Datsunroadsterranch) to the left of the dome that allows air to enter the carburetor when choked: It was blocked off by a PO with a small rubber tube with a plug in the end. Should this be connected to something of importance? It seems odd that it's only on the front carb. Jeff

I ordered an OEM using the parts number supplied by siteunseen. Thank you for the help. Down the rabbit hole I go...

Any idea what gasket to get for an N42 head with an E46/E48 intake manifold? My car's a '74 260 but has a different engine and carb setup than original. I would of thought all the 240-280's had the same but that may not be the case. I'd likely not get an OEM since I need the option to return it if it does not fit.

I just realized that the intake manifold gasket is also the exhaust manifold gasket. That being the case, I need to remove the exhaust manifold as well to replace the gasket, correct?

I didn't know there was a clear coating you could apply to bare metal that was heat resistant. I'll read up on it but might go with Rust-Oleum Engine Enamel instead because I found it locally at Summit Racing. I got the last two bolts off and noticed that the inside of the intake is very rough. Would smoothing it out and polishing help performance or would it be a waste of time?

I like that valve cover Siteunseen. Right now I have mine polished with Mother's. It's tempting to sand blast it to get that effect. Did you tape over the lettering or buff them out afterwards? I decided to pull my intake and started the project tonight. I seem to be one of those that likes to tinker with cars as much or more that drive them. I still have two bolts under the intake to remove that are difficult to get to. I found it odd that the lower bolts don't go through the flange but instead bolt to the block with wide washers that hold the lower flange against the engine. Nothing seemed overly tight so snapping off a stud or bolt is unlikely.

Ok. Not worth the potential problem.

I just rebuilt one of the two SU''s on my '74 260z and really like how it looks after blasting the body with glass beads. I'd like to do the same with the intake manifold but wanted to get some input on how much trouble I''m asking for in removing the intake (i.e. what is the likelihood that I'm going to break something like a stud in removing it). A local free access machine shop has a couple of blast cabinets available so it won't cost me anything. Note for those in NE Ohio, look up Sears ThinkBox at Case if you need to use machine shop tools, welders, etc. The only cost is materials and parking. Jeff

I had to change both the dash and fuse box harnesses but the problem ended up being due to a bad connection.

It worked out fine except for an extra wire. But then again, my original wiring had undergone so many modifications, I might of been missing that wire due to PO's re-wiring to install a radio or anti-thief system.