Jeff Berk

I inserted an endoscope into the hole I drilled and realized that the striker was just short of engaging. I switch to another striker and this time it engaged and I was able to go through the gears. I could see the ends of the fork rods in the bell housing moving in and out as I shifted through the gears and the input shaft turned freely. Unfortunately, I need to disassemble the case since I didn't apply RTV to the adaptor plate yet but If it work once, it should work again. I've attached a photo from the endoscope showing the non-engaged striker. I knew that endoscope would come in handy some day. Sorry for the poor resolution.

Just so I understand, I need to put the transmission in gear (example 1st gear) by pushing the fork rod, then drop the adapter plate into the front case/bell housing while making sure the fork rods haven't moved, then put the transmission tail on with the shifter set to 1st gear?

It's me again. I solved the issue with the wedge pin stuck in the striker, I took zKars' suggestion and drilled a hole in the side of the transmission so I could tap it out. I then taped the hole for 1/2-inch 13 threads and bought a short bolt. I figure with thread sealer and an O-ring, I should be able to seal it well enough. Dropping the transmission into the case has been a problem. I think I have it all together properly (see photos on google drive). I installed the shifter, bell housing, and tried dropping the tail in place. I tried different shifter positions, twisting the tail a little to the left when installing and when it all falls into place, the shifter seems to be stuck. I'm assuming the striker is not going where it's supposed to go. The transmission case and shifter are out of a wide ratio while the shift forks and and rods are out of a close ratio. Most of the hardware in front of the adaptor plate are from a 4-speed. Should I try the tail end from the close ratio? https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1x7dBQ_c1fBdDtWOt89JVneSfF5rc69jQ?usp=sharing

zKars... I drilled a hole in one of my donner transmissions and was able to get the pin out of that one with a few hammer blows against a drift pin. I did that to get a better look at what I'm up against. I picked up an electrical conduit hanger at Lowes and I'm trying to come up with a tool to push out the pin by reshaping the hanger. Not much luck yet. As I said earlier, it's a very tight space.

I was thinking the same thing. When I regain access to the maker space I'm going to see if I can make one. I like a challenge, owning a vintage Z, that should be obvious.

Yarb... I removed the nut and tried to tap the screw out but it's kind of stuck. I threaded the nut back on a bit and tried to use a small hammer to tap it out to no avail. I'm assuming the striker needs to be removed to pull out the shifting bar. Jeff

If that's the rod connecting the shifter lever to the striking lever, I didn't think it was necessary so no. I think I would have to remove the striking lever to do that and with the close quarters, I wasn't sure how easy that would be. I'm going to test fit the case today and see if it shifts through the gears before I RTV the adaptor plate to the front and back transmission case. Is there anything else I should do before I reinstall to test the transmission? I've never rebuilt a transmission before so I'm a little concerned. Jeff

Is there anything I should do to check the function of the transmission before I mount it and fill it up with fluid? I got the replacement bearing (see previous post) and should be able to get it installed tomorrow.

Well, it's difficult to say what year my transmission is at this point. The 5th gear part is off a '82 worn out trany, most of the rest of the innards are out of a '78(?) 4 speed, and the shafts (except the input) are out of my 70 something transmission that a PO installed in the early 80's. Not sure how it's going to work once I get it together... kind of sounds like that old Johnny Cash song.

I could be wrong (keep in mind that I'm rebuilding my FS5W71B and keep having to undo what I put together) but I think you are missing a spacer (part 32624). Just wondering, I think I read that you bought a rebuilding kit from Rock Auto. Does the input shaft bearing in your kit have a retaining ring because mine did not and I'm waiting on a new bearing that has the clip.

I think I have it ready to go back into the case but there was one minor discrepancy in the parts that I noticed. The original input shaft bearing had a snap ring but the replacement that came with the kit from Rock Auto did not. Is this a problem? I test fit the transmission in the case and it seems to shift, but not smoothly. I'm assuming that's because it's not spinning at all and has no oil other than what I dripped on the gears when I assembled it. We are having some really nice weather outside right now so I need to get that car back on the street.

EuroDat, I think that helped. The notch is accessible now. I just need to find a ball bearing that fits. I don't know if it matters but my 5th gear hub pictured in SMT007A did not have that notch around its circumference.

I think the problem may be that the output shaft needs to be shifted further aft. The detent hole just to the left in the earlier photograph gets covered up by the reverse gear. Should I just try and push against the other end of the shaft (the input shaft end) until the detent hole is visible with the reverse gear installed. The following photograph shows the indent hole being covered by the fifth gear.

I’m having problems getting the components on the main output shaft to line up. The photograph shows from right to left 1) adaptor plate 2) three-prong spacer (hidden) 3) reverse gear with brass balking ring 4) a pair of needle bearings 5) overdrive gear, and 6) a spacer with a slot for a detent. I’m assuming the detent needs to go into the hemispherical cutout in the main shaft just in front of the needle bearings. However, when I install the OD gear, the cutout is not visible. Do I need to move the main shaft further to the left?

View Advert Right-hand M27X1.0 nuts for fs5w71 (NOT NOS) I had a handful of these machined since the cost of 4 was the same as just the one I needed. If I can sell them for $25 each plus shipping (3.50 first class or 8.50 insured priority) that will cover my cost. I can not make any more until the local make-it shop reopens and I buy a new tap. Advertiser Jeff Berk Date 03/16/2021 Price $28.50 Category Parts for Sale  

Just a precaution, either get new fusible links of the correct amperage (color) or install some breakers. The old wiring on these Z's scares the hell out of me.

I don't think Think[box] at Case Univ. will charge me for the time so it's $22 for the tap (cheap Aliexpress import) and around $66 for a 1-foot 4140 Alloy Steel Hex Bar. So around $88 for the first one : ( Or, if I can get them to make me at least 4, $22 each. Why, do you want to buy one for $22 (assuming I get an extra 3)? If so, I'll PM you after I get them back in a few weeks. I'll likely post a few in the classified at cost.

I found a potentially useful FS5W71 rebuilding guide by Derek Garnier that may be of help to me and others: https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/0ByCvxnHNk90SYzc4N2E1MWEtMzg0MC00YTE4LTkxZGQtM2RjODA5ODA1YjU1?ddrp=1&hl=en&fbclid=IwAR3SqJySd00J_p1bT2-8yPS_4cSaUGl7jBQ-JcNuYgjk3l0QSo7Rb7gA2D4 Part 1: Volume 11, Issue 2 Part 2: Volume 11, Issue 3 Many of the photographs referenced in the above two articles are missing due to space limitations. A complete set of photographs are located here: https://datsun510.com/downloads/ look under FS5W71.zip I'm hopefully picking up a 4-speed on Sunday to part out for rebuilding one of the 5 speeds I have. A local maker space at Case Western University is milling me a right-hand thread, M27x1.0 stake nut. Let's see if I can get this working again by Spring thaw.

I think these hubcaps are aftermarket from National Wheel Covers manufactured by NAMSCO in Bellwood, Illinois although NAMSCO I thought only made reproduction hubcap for domestic cars. Thanks for the rabbit hole.

If I hadn't already purchase a pair of '76 seats for my 260z I'd of likely gone with Miata seats and mounted speakers in them: https://did-it-myself.com/diy-miata-headrest-speakers/

I'm not sure how accurate this is since it should be checked but here's what I've found in regards to parts that match up part numbers between 4 Speed-F4W71B (from Sept. 1971) and 5 Speed-F571B (from August 1976). This suggests that those 4-speed transmissions may be of use if they can be found in good condition. CrossReference 4 and 5 speed.pdf

ZedHead... I'll keep checking the local classified listings as well as attempt to contact the person I purchased the 5-speed from to see what he has laying around. Maybe I'll get lucky. In the mean time, I'm getting a lot of practice taking these things apart.

ZedHead... Are you suggesting that I find a usable 4 speed and use it to rebuild the worn out 5 speed? Or should I just go with a 4 speed in my 260z? Jeff

If you look at my Jan 4th posting, the teeth on my original transmission were sharper, but several of them were snapped off. I looked at that Transmissionpartsdistributors site; however the part is labeled as being for the C version of the transmission. I'm not sure how that differs from the FS5W71B transmission.