Jeff Berk

https://www.bendpak.com/Rolling-Bridge-Jacks-Manual-5900004-BendPak.pdf When you use a 4-post lift, all tires rest on the two runways. To do such work as replacing the brakes, you need to remove the wheel. But the car is resting on the wheel. The bridge jack fits between the two runways and can be used to lift the front or back, or if you have two bridge jacks, the entire car just above the runways. Right now, for instance, I had to pull my transmission. I'm using a home-made bridge jack to support the rear of the engine.

When I first purchased the lift, I searched for instructions on line and found a video where someone actually assembled one without assistance.

FYI, I have a Bendpak. Great lift but just to correct an above comment, they come with steel ramps. The aluminum ramps are an option that have a longer approach making it ideal for cars with low air dams. If you are planning on doing work on your car, consider getting the bridge jack if it's within your budget. I ended up building a stationary bridge and use bottle jacks to get the same effect. I have the wheel kit to move the lift but other than making it easy to move the lift to its final position after assembly, I've not had to use them. The plastic trays are a must to protect the car underneath. I have two of them and then cut a piece of plywood to get a third when I discovered a slow leak from the differential. I also had to turn my garage door to a high lift which means that a "normal" garage-door opener won't work. One more comment, if you are planning on installing it yourself, get help. The components are heavy.

I've used Molotow and it works OK for narrow lines but it might not be the best option for a part that requires a wide area since you'll end up with "brush strokes". I also used Rustoleum Bright Coat Chrome and got acceptable results. It required several coats and cannot be clear coated to increase the luster. It is possible to chrome plastic with real chrome by first coating it with a metallic material or to coat it with aluminum that will shine almost like chrome. Here's a discussion that might explain it. I decided to go with paint. https://www.startribune.com/q-how-do-you-chrome-plastic/41432532/

Captain Looks like the O2 sensor is more complicated than I thought. Sorry to send you on a goose chase (turkey chase?) Jeff

I've attached a writeup on how to make a front differential mount, unfortunately, I didn't make note of what web site it came from. I'm assuming either HybridZ or this site. I had mine cut on a CNC type machine I had access to up until C-19 hit. The SVG file may or may not be correct. It's used as the source file for creating the part on the CNC. Differential Front Mount.docx differentialFrontMount.svg

After putting in a new clutch, I sold my transmission jack figuring I'd never do that again. Wrong as usual. I did a quick check and found a rebuilt 5 speed close ratio nearby but at >$1,000 I'll see what I can do with my transmission. Anyways, I don't want a spare transmission since I'm limited on space and with winter knocking at our door, I need to get all three cars in my 2-car garage. At least this will give me a winter project. I'll jump back on this thread once I get around to pulling the transmission. Thanks! Jeff

I don't think its the Shift Lever hitting anything. I checked from under the car while my son shifted back and forth between 3rd and 4th and it looks like nothing was binding or hitting. Moving to the shift fork as the next potential cause, it looks like the part potentially causing the problem would be #27 (31805) or #28 (32809N). Unfortunately, those parts are NLA. If worn out at contact points, can these parts be repaired, redressed, or built up with welding? Or are they available as replacements through other channels? I'm just wondering if rebuilding is even an option.

I started this question in another thread but instead of taking over that thread, I thought it best to start a separate one. I have a '74 260z with an engine and drivetrain from a 280z or 280zx. The transmission is a wide ratio FS5W71B. The transmission would slip out of 3rd and sometimes 4th gear when I let up on the gas. I replaced the transmission fluid with Red-Line MT-90 and replaced the 3 ball bearings and springs (detent springs 32831N). There does not seem to be anything interfering with the shifter and the transmission seems to go fully into gear. I test drove the car today and the problem seems to persist. According to the service manual, after eliminating the springs as the problem, the next thing to look at are the Shift Fork and the Gears. My question is, whether I could tackle this level of rebuild or is this something best left to a professional? I'm also not sure how available the gears and shift fork are for this old unit. Note that the ball bearings for the springs came in packs of 10 so I have 7 extra if someone needs any along with an extra spring since I ordered an extra expecting to loose one. Thanks Jeff

If you are talking about the heating element on O2 sensors, that's there just to get them up to operating temperature (~600F http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/understanding_oxygen_sensors.asp). After a few minutes, I don't think you don't need it. A good discussion of O2 placement can be found here. My original idea for including a Rraspberry Pi was to add a G-meter. Not because it adds any diagnostics, but it's cool. My son's 2020 Type N has a factory one in his dash.

I started looking into this because I'm also a data junky. I was looking into a "no-weld" bung to fit the O2 sensor to. I figured on using the O2 sensor's voltage output monitored and logged by a Raspberry Pi. Not sure what I'd do with all the data.

Ditto on the heat shrink. Those ball sockets worked great. I had used a stainless steel rod and cut threading on the ends but blacking out the rod looks great.

FYI, the drain plug didn't look too bad so hopefully the new springs will take care of things. I'm picking up the Red-Line tomorrow. Thanks all.

Thank you... I think I found them using your annotated photos. Switching out these inexpensive items are worth a shot before having the transmission rebuilt. Do I need to spray anything in the holes after removing the springs and check balls to clean out gunk or should they be fine. Euro Dat, That is one clean transmission! Jeff

EuroDat and Zed Head... Thanks for the help. I downloaded the service manual for the FS5W71C from NICOclub and it shows the first thing to check for wear are the plug return spring and ball. The diagram provided by Zed Head shows 3 of them. EuroDat, how do you access them without removing the transmission? Are the plugs visible on the outside of the transmission? If so, can you point them out on one of the photographs in the first post of this thread? I'm going to pull the drain plug this weekend and check for metal shavings. There weren't any 3 years ago when I pulled and reinstalled the transmission, but that was 3 years ago. Jeff

3rd gear is the issue. Are parts generally still available? Zcar Depot sells a rebuilding kit that includes seals, bearings, and synchros. But if it's something else, is it possible to still get parts?

I'm trying to ID my transmission because I need to check if parts are still available. All I know is that it came out of a 280z or zx since it was installed in my 260 around '83. Based on the retaining bolt placement above the speedo cable and the two tabs on the tail end of the transmission housing it is likely a wide ratio FS5W71B. Is this the only potential transmission or do I need to dig deeper. There is an L3 on the housing if that helps. Also, from talking to a transmission specialist, my problem of popping out of gear may be related to worn shoes or forks. If he is on the right track, are these components still available? I'm going to pull my center console out to see if something is blocking the shifter before bringing it in just in case it's a simple issue. Thanks in advance... Jeff

I'd like to also kick the engineer in the nuts that had that diagram of the removal procedure sketched in the FSM. The one showing the pin being pulled out with two fingers. I ended up constructing a puller with the help of a local machine shop.

Wants too much for shipping, I'll pass...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/791366034733342 I would consider this but my wife is already is already trying to get me to part with my '74

Nice home for that little red Z!

Nevermind. I found an old post that shows green 0.50^2 mm = 40 amps black 1.25^2 mm = 80 amps

zKars. Thanks for the suggestions. If I do go with a breaker or new fuse design, any idea what amperage I would be needing for the green and black fusible links? Jeff

heyitsrama, thanks for the suggestion on the alternator wire. It was heavily burnt at the alternator connection.

I just realized as I was shopping around for a fusible link that 2.0^2 mm (gray) is much higher than what was originally in my 1974 260z (early production). According to theZstore, I should be using 1.25^2mm (black) and 0.5^2mm (green).