Jeff Berk

In trying to troubleshoot another electrical glitch, I noticed that one of my 2.0^2 mm fusible links had damaged insulation and the wire inside was corroded. Was this due to overheating? I had removed, cleaned, and coated the contacts last year. Should I consider replacing the fusible links with a pair of high amp fuses? If so, any suggestions on which model? There was a nice one on this forum a few years ago that would accept two fuses and had a volt and amp display for $30; but it's no longer available. Or should I just purchase a replacement link? Thanks Jeff

I'd likely replace the blanks with switches marked ejector seat, oil slick, warp drive, flux capacitor, etc.

Unfortunately, no. It's a 1973 plate but my car is a 1974 (January I think) so the date is wrong. I purchased it anyways since I could possibly use it as a front plate. I'm a bit confused why someone in 1973 would of got a D 260 Z plate since the 260Z wasn't made until 1974.

OK, now this is so close

Would using the turbo Z pump be strong enough to pump oil through both the internal oiler and spray arms? Is there a way to check how well it's working?

Sure it will ; )

Well I'm back to where I was last year. I got this message from my mechanic when I brought the car back in to have the valves adjusted: Jeff, For some reason your cam/head has an oiling problem. The same cam lobes that were destroyed on the first cam are bad on the new cam. I have a new cam and rocker arm set coming next week. This cam uses a different oiling system than the original cam. Followed by: The new cam will be internally oiled. You can use both the spray bar and internal oiling, the oil pump does not have the volume to do both. I think we should also replace the oil pump with a turboZ oil pump. I have not got the complete cost of the replacement parts yet. I will keep you posted. Any opinions on this? The mechanic specializes in Japan and British car restoration and races a 510 so he seems to know what he is doing.

Patcon I like that 26 ZR. Do you think anyone would notice if I added a "0" in there? Jeff

I've been searching for an Ohio 1974 license plate to go with my '74 260Z. In Ohio, you can use a historic license plate or an old license plate that matches the year of your car on a historic vehicle. Right now there is one on e-bay "Z N" as in Z'n or Z'ing If anyone see something better let me know. I'm looking for something closer to 260Z. Jeff https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ohio-VANITY-License-Plate-Z-N/373003309954?hash=item56d8bad382:g:DygAAOSwnZRefhV9

Just a thought, you might want to disconnect, clean, and reconnect each connection while you go through the wiring. Almost all my electrical issues on my car seemed to trace back to bad connections.

After struggling with the double relay electric fuel safety wiring on my '74, I'm wiring power to my fuel pump around the relays and going with an inertia kill switch I purchased from RockAuto (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=43206&cc=1209181&jsn=4). From the directions, it seems that the switch triggering mechanism is sensitive to where it's mounted. Put it in the wrong place and it will trigger if you slam the door or go over a rough road. If you've installed an inertia switch, where have you placed it?

Sorry, but I had to look it up. I'm assuming you meant the first definition and not the last ?: Sakura (桜 (kanji), 櫻 (old kanji), さくら (hiragana), サクラ (katakana)) is the Japanese term for ornamental cherry blossom trees and their blossoms. Sakura may also refer to: Sakura, raw horse meat, usually prepared as sashimi called basashi

I was doing some electrical work on my '74 today and realized that the way I resolved my dash light was to install a second fuse panel and ran the dash lights off of it. I kind of recall that I had fuse blowing issues so I split up the components leading to the circuit using the second fuse panel with four separate circuits. I figured that the component causing the fuse to blow would be narrowed down but no fuse in the second panel popped. So I just kept the troublesome circuit split into multiple separate circuits. So, I guess I never figured out the reason why my lights were not working but found a workaround.

Crshowes It's been a long time since I had that issue so I don't recall the details. The only problem with a new relay is that the plug will not match. It's just a "standard" relay. I don't think the relay replacement corrected the dash lights but I cannot recall the fix. Just wondering, did you install LED dash lights like I eventually did? You can't use a standard rheostat to control them.

Regarding the odd fuel hose: I think I used some cloth-covered hose (common on some German cars) and something like this (not this one specifically) to get that U-bend: https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0421896 Make sure all replaced hoses if not OEM are rated for fuel. I also looked at universal molded fuel line by RetroMotion Innovations but didn't go that route. https://www.retromotioninnovations.com/products/3-8universalmolded you just cut out whatever part you need and splice a standard fuel line to it.

Are you going to try and match the diamond pattern on the vinyl? I'm in the process of gutting and redoing the interior of my 260 but I just went with basic black. (https://www.joann.com/artic-vinyl-54in-black/3526274.html) . The 2 yards covered the tunnel, the strips along the door openings, the rear panel, and the emergency brake lever. The back of the vinyl has a diamond pattern printed on it I guess to use as a sewing guide. What's holding me up now is a source for horsehair for the seat bottom. The original horsehair disintegrated. I think I finally found a source. The horsehair in the seat backs is in good condition.

With the crank off, buy the clip removal tool and play around with it until you see how it should work. I've never had any problem but then again, I used to have a '66 Chevy and had a lot of practice with it.

Dadsun, The door handle requires a special tool to unclip the handle. You slide the tool behind the pivot point of the handle and push the clip partially out. https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/window-handle-remover-tool. The door latch has a plastic cover that has to be carefully pried off. I cracked one of mine. https://zcarsource.com/handle-cover-insert-240z-260z-280z After removing the cover, you can see the screw holding the escutcheon in place. https://zcarsource.com/door-escutcheon-240z-260z-280z

It seems like the procedure would be to test if you have power at one point, perhaps the combo switch like what Siteunseen suggested. If you have power going into the switch, see if you also have power going out. If you do, then work your way to the next connection and see if power makes it that far. I've got a '74 so the electrical system should be similar. There is a 3 blade connector on the combo switch with a red/white wire that I think should be hot when the headlights are on. Check to see if it is. If not, and power goes to the combo switch, the switch is the problem. If it has power, work your way to the C4 (Brown) connector and see if there is power going in and if power is going out the other side. Keep looking for where power should be and if it's not there, you've isolated the fault. It's a long shot, but try cleaning your fusible links. When you are done and found the issue, look into adding a headlight relay. Good luck. Jeff

The only fog machine I'm familiar with uses glycerin. I have no idea if that's a problem or not with a catalytic converter but why not wait for the engine to be installed. Run it, then look for leaks by holding your hand near joints in the exhaust? If you can borrow a thermal IR gun, you'd "see" the heat escaping from a leak.

After looking around, I think I'm setting my sights on a leather kit sold by Interior Innovations for $350. I need to hold off for a few months at least while I wait to be called back to work so I'm gluing the stretch marks from the inside to stabilize the damage and adding new horsehair and padding for now. AK260, I like your interior but someone moved your steering wheel to the wrong side of the car ; ) Jeff

I purchased the correct rails for my 260. Thanks for all the input.

I just came back from an upholsterer for vintage cars and he said that my seat bottom was dry rotted. I'm going to need to either replace the original covering (his suggestion) or glue backing somehow to give it strength my inexpensive alternative. At least I'm furloughed so I have some free time.

My 260 is a 4/74 manufactured so the source vehicle must of been a late build. Does anyone see a problem in just bolting a 60 degree metal tab or should I replace the rails? I unfortunately have lost access to my metal brake until who know's when. I'll likely have to purchase 45 degree angle braces and hammer them to get 60 degrees. On a side note, I found one of the nylon bolt-shaped spacers used to adjust the seat height. It was hidden beneath the 1980's vintage carpet. Earlier, I found a pack of camel's in one of the tool compartments that has been hidden by the 1980's carpet. This car is a time capsule. Stay Safe Everyone and Thank You for the Help.

I'm in the process of putting my 260's interior back together with seats I purchased from someone that said that they came out of a 260. The rear bolts line up but the seats have a tab that tilts down at 60 degrees in the front that doesn't line up with anything. I'm likely going to just bend a steel bar and drill a couple of holes in it to make it fit. Is there a part missing or is this just a variation in seat design?