Jeff Berk

If you still need some answers to your questions... There are two screws holding the tach in that are accessible from under the dash and under the top overhang of the tachometer hood. Once these are out, I think you just reach back and push the tack forward and pull it out from the front. You might need to remove the steering wheel to get it out. If you have a dash cap installed, it will likely need to be removed. Your can then attach lead wires to it. One to the + side and one to the - side of the battery, then one more to the - side of the coil after first passing through a 50 kohm resistor. That will at least tell you if the tach is at fault or if it's a problem with a loose wire or bad resistor. Let me know if you need a resistor. I have extra after setting up some test leads for this very issue. Jeff

I think someone rearranged the wiring on that 260z. The fusible links should of been on the firewall. That white plastic thing and the "emergency" switch should of been where the fusible link holder is now.

Fantastic resource! Thank you! I'm assuming because the N3600 says MANUAL and the N3601 doesn't specify, the latter is for an Automatic. I might try the N3601 in my manual Z since they seem similar. I'll just check for any changes in the plugs or wiring colors as I hook it up. Any idea what the ER stands for? Jeff BTW, I just had my Z out last week for my first ever SCCA autocross. I was just about the slowest person out there but had a lot of fun. Luckily with my gauges not working (except the spedo) due to electrical problems, my tach didn't work. That way I didn't have to worry about redlining it.

I have a 260z with some electrical issues. I was going to try and replace the wiring harness and purchased one off e-bay. The under dash harness on my car has a label with the part number 24013 N3600 but the one I purchased has a part number 24013 N3601. They both seem to be the same so I don't understand the number difference. Is there a list somewhere with the part numbers used on the 260z? Jeff

JSM... Thanks for the info. I have no idea where the velocity stacks originated from. I had to wrap the ends of them with self-vulcanizing electrical tape to build up their diameters so that I could install an air cleaner. The Air cleaner/filters were just inexpensive universal units I purchased from Autozone. I know it was jerry-rigged but less so than that of the PO.

Hi all, I have a '74 260z with a 280 engine/5-sp manual that I purchased a few months ago. In the early 80's, a triple carb system was installed in it. Then around 2010, it was changed back to a dual SU carb system. I was trying to adjust the carburetors and could not locate the fast idle screw. After some digging on the internet, I think it's missing (see second picture), maybe during the switch back to dual carbs and the addition of the nifty bolt as a vacuum plug. Is this something I can easily fabricate out of a triangle of thick sheet metal with three holes, a screw for adjusting and maybe a spring around the screw? If not, anyone can suggest a source for this missing part? Also while I'm at it... The first picture is of the bottom of one of the carbs. Is the knurled nut just below the carb the air/fuel ratio adjuster? Thanks! Jeff