jmead

Down to $370 shipped!

Used

I'd really rather keep it a package, but I guess it depends on what you're offering

http://home.stny.rr.com/nuclearmonkey/pics/mini-IMG_0438.jpg http://home.stny.rr.com/nuclearmonkey/pics/mini-IMG_0444.jpg I have the following setup for sale: Much desirable Maxima caliper bracket 82-83 280zx Calipers Early Z31 rear disk brakes re-drilled for 4 bolts (or could be used with original 5 bolt holes) AFAIK Setup is in good working order, only slight surface rust on rotors, actual rotor surface is clean and smooth Should be everything need to convert a Z to rear disk brakes, even include the anti-rattle clips. I'm looking for $370 shipped for the setup (shipping would run $40-$50) Awsome deal on 71 240z w/ 383 stroker has come up, and of course, I'm a couple bucks short! Open to offers, or just suggestions on price. Like I said, I need to sell QUICK! jmead@stny.rr.com

Wow...2 people here that know where owego is? Sure you're not thinking of oSwego? Even people who live around the area...you mention owego and get this blank look.... and NJ Larry - ouch, saw the pic....that car didn't really hold up too well, did it? (but its hard to say, how fast was the truck going?). Thats like the third of forth story I've heard recently of one of those big brown trucks really doing a number on a classic. Don't think our Z had ever met...in fact, I've never even seen another z around here at all. Only Zs I've ever set eyes on in NY are mine. JEFF - well, thank you, glad everything worked OK. And for the record, JEFF was a pleasure to do buisness with as well.

sorry...I'm probably a ways away I'm in upstate NY, a little town called Owego (you've never heard of it), its near binghamton. What are you interested in? Shipping might not be as much as you think

2mm Metal Headgasket - $90 280zx Turbo Intake, fuel rail, pressure regulator, brand new pop-off valve, AIR valve, ported a little to match 60mm TB - $125 280zx turbo intake manifold, bare manifold basically, with heat shield -Good for a porting trial, getting flow characteristics without hacking up your original, etc. - $45 Electric Fan from Ford Taurus, 2 speed, moves a TON of air, excellent condition - $55 Fiberglass rear guarterpanels, need to be cleaned up, but solid, looks like buyer backed out - $70 XR-700 ignition unit itself no wiring, great upgrade for stock distributor, much more accurate timing, less maintenance, etc Would need optical trigger (which can be bought from pentronix) - $45 R200 CV axels, good condition - $35 Driveshaft from 5spd 280z - $45 R180 Mustache Bar - $25 L28 Valve Cover, little dirty, good condition, would clean up easily, reads "Nissan OHC" - $20 L28 Valve Cover, painted red, cood condition, looks nice, reads "Nissan OHC" - $30 Twin SU Air Cleaner, good condition, a little dirty - $35 2 240z Alternators, unknown condition, could use some cleaning before use - $20 each Prices too high? I'm open to offers, as well as trades And I'm willing to trade. There are a few things I could use; Any part of the JTR kit, I haven't bought mine yet so open to anything. Driveshaft, for chevy swap Megasquirt setup EFI for chevy 350 Any chevy 350 related parts, carb, heads, waterpump, etc Anything else, just try me, might be something I could use jmead@stny.rr.com

my timing was waaaaayyy off. Adjusted it, everything is better now. Still not as much power as before, but I've got some fine tuning to do yet. I think the engine may be on the way out, there is still some noise under acceleration, but not like what is was. Oh, and it certainly wasn't a "pinging" like I had thought. I assumed detonation would sound more like a cable snapping, like a "twing, twing", this was more of just a metalic rattle. At least I know what to listen for now

leave it on...but make it stand out if you shine is up, maybe highlight it from the rest of the intake it will only add to it

Gaskets - shipped via USPS priority, should be there already, and if not I would expect them today or tomorrow Driveshaft - yup, I've still got it, price is $50

I don't think it is detonation, but then again, I've never really heard the "pinging" before, so this could be it. I'll try a higher octane fuel for the next fillup, but I've already got gas in the tank so it would take me a while to use up all the 87 first

I've got a 70 240z with the stock SUs. A week or two ago I noticed a problem developing. Under hard accelerations there is a rattling sound comming from the engine bay, it is a metalic rattle, almost like the muffled sound of some screws rattling around in a can...almost. It has been getting worse, and is no accompanied by a loss of power. It is much worse in the higher gears, with it almost never happening in 1st, and getting worse into 2nd, 3rd. It seems to be load dependant, only at say 50% throttle or higher, esepically when the revs and low and building. For some reason I think it is carb related, like something is loose in one of them. I'm really not too famaliar with the internal workings of the SUs, so is there anything that could be causing this? Remember it comes with a loss of power, so it must be something significant. Thanks for any help/ideas.

I'd be interested in one or two of those stock rotor setups. I've got a thread with a whole load of stuff up for sale/trade. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9051 .Do you see anything there you might need? I'm low on cash (v8 swap), so anything you'd be willing to trade for would be great

manifold is SOLD

any idea which ones? I've shied away from Harbor Freight units because I suspected poor quality, but if I knew which ones where actually just rebadged, I might re-consider.

SOLD! Send me an email and we'll work out the details

looks like my buyer for the fiberglass rear quarter panels backed out, so they are back up for sale

I've got the same problem, headlight is out and can't get the cruty screws out (last guy who tried stripped the crap out of them). I'd like to replace them with something that won't give me so many problems next time I want to change one. I don't have the screws out, so I'm not sure what to buy to replace them. Does anybody know what size and thread bolt I want to replace them with?

Custom L6 Turbo Manifold, pics: http://home.stny.rr.com/nuclearmonkey/pics/mini-IMG_0435.jpg http://home.stny.rr.com/nuclearmonkey/pics/mini-IMG_0436.jpg looks sharp, was painted with hi-temp silver paint, has o2 provision, as well as external wastegate, a great addition to any turbo Z - $300 - SOLD! 280zx Turbo Intake, fuel rail, pressure regulator, brand new pop-off valve, AIR valve, ported a little to match 60mm TB - $150 Fiberglass rear guarterpanels, need to be cleaned up, but solid, looks like buyer backed out - $75 XR-700 ignition unit itself no wiring, great upgrade for stock distributor, much more accurate timing, less maintenance, etc Would need optical trigger (which can be bought from pentronix) - $50 280zx turbo intake manifold, bare manifold basically, with heat shield -Good for a porting trial, getting flow characteristics without hacking up your original, etc. - $50 2mm Metal Headgasket - $100 L28 Gasket Set, including head gasket, valve cover gasket, intake and exhaust gasket set - $40 - SOLD! “Secret Doors”, in excellent condition, great condition, look new - $35 - SOLD! R200 drive axels, good condition - $40 Electric Fan from Ford Taurus, 2 speed, moves a TON of air, excellent condition - $60 L28 Valve Cover, little dirty, good condition, would clean up easily, reads "Nissan OHC" - $25 L28 Valve Cover, painted red, cood condition, looks nice, reads "Nissan OHC" - $35 Twin SU Air Cleaner, good condition, a little dirty - $40 2 240z Alternators, unknown condition, could use some cleaning before use - $25 each 5 spd Tranny, believed to be working, shifts through all the gears, looks to be in good condition - Make an Offer Driveshaft from 5spd 280z - $50 R180 Mustache Bar - $30 TH350 Transmisson, told it has seen 0 miles since rebuild, looks to be in good condition - Make an Offer Prices too high? I'm open to offers, as well as trades And I'm willing to trade. There are a few things I could use; Any part of the JTR kit, I haven't bought mine yet so open to anything. Driveshaft, for chevy swap Megasquirt setup EFI for chevy 350 Low-profile electric fan, must be under 2 1/2" deep Any chevy 350 related parts, carb, heads, waterpump, etc Anything else, just try me, might be something I could use jmead@stny.rr.com

The engine and transmission both have about 160k, no rebuilds or replacements that I know of. So you think it could be pressure plates? I know for a fact that the lurching is related to the vacuum signal the tranny is getting. Are the pressure plates "activated" by this signal? (I'm sorry, I don't know very much about the internal workings of an auto tranny) How difficult is this replacement?

Alright...got my car running smoothly, now it turns out I've got a transmission problem. It turns out the vacuum line that connects to the manifold was loose, and leaking vacuum, causing the transmission to lurch at certain speeds depending on the throttle position. I re-attached the hose securely, and the car is much smoother, but it will still ocasionally lurch around during a shift. This is mainly at high speeds (45+). What more can be done to fix this? Is it possible the hose itself is leaking? What other parts could cause this to happen? I've read something about a "vacuum modulator" in the tranny. What does it do? I've got a 76 280z, auto tranny, stock. Thanks for any input

too bad it isn't driveable, I'd take it. I'd take it if I had any way to get it back, but I'm in upstate NY, wouldn't be feasable (cheaply)

I found that the ground wire that connects to the throttle body was just hanging loose, that cleared up the majority of the problems. There is still a slight pop sometimes off of idle, but it just happens once, and isn't nearly as obvious as it was. I'm still having a problem with it stalling, with the flutter tach and everything, but it seems like that has gotten better too. I can make it happen now, just by putting it in neutral and reving to 6k it will happen every time, even with no load. More problems now, I found a small leak in the water pump. Now its running slightly hot(er). I guess I'll check the spark plugs, see what color they are. How long would a lean condition need to exist before it colored the spark plugs? It has only been doing this for a day or two, is that enough time? One other question, to anyone with a 280z and an auto. It seems like the low end torque is a little lacking (maybe related to a bad AFM or something). If you punch the throttle off idle, do the tires spin? It seems to me like the engine would have enough power to spin the tires from a stop, but mine can't. I know its not a very good way to measure the low-end, but its the only test I can come up with. Thanks for your help!

I've got a 1976 280z w/ auto transmission Since I installed my upgraded throttle body (60mm 240sx), I've been having a problem. Sometimes the car "pops" a little bit, you can feel it very clearly in the gas pedal, and my girlfriend said she could feel it from the passenger side, too. It used to just happen once when you pressed the pedal hard from a stop, but now it seems to do it all the time under 30mph, even with the slightest acceleration. When it happens, the car lurches a little bit, and acceleration isn't even close to what it normally is. In addition, since this started happening, the car has also been stalling. The tach jumps up to 3500-4000, flutters around a little bit, along with a loss of power, and once the car slows it just shuts down completely. Normally if you re-start the car its fine, but on my way home it happened several times, when it normally wouldn't. Does anyone have any ideas? It’s to the point where I can't even drive my car now, so I'd really like to get it back into tip-top shape. Thanks for any help.

you don't mention what size speakers the brackets are for