duffymahoney
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Everything posted by duffymahoney
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Done for now.
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rear wheels clear with ease. Now time to wait for the rest of the parts to come.
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Stoptech
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I’m blown away by the level of fit and finish and engineering that went into the kit.
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No proportioning valve needed. If you have a rear prop valve like me. It has to be gutted. From looks both front and rear calipers are identical. They have different cast numbers. So there must be a difference. Hopefully finalizing fronts and rears tomorrow. Then waiting on the e brake caliper and pads for the whole kit.
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Rotors are 11x20.5mm or so. I have no way to weight them. Most of the kit is installed already. But everything is very very light
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Install and instructions are a breeze. Rota 15x8-0 clear with ease. (Wats are on order)
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Emergency brake is currently a wilwood. But will soon be stop tech
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Should accomadate 240-280z. Full kit. Comes with pads. I don’t know if you can pick other types? Includes everything. Even brake fluid.
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I am blown away by the quality and engineering that went into this Zcargarage BBK (big brake kit) The kit was designed by stoptech engineers and Zcargarage from the ground up for the Z. I am sort of a guinea pig to see if consumers can install this kit. They have amazing detailed 40 page instructions. Which in the car world is rare. I’m stoked to get them installed. Kit comes with everything needed to install and retains stock parking brake and MC. Fits 15x8 wheels as well! So light!
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1970 240z restoration engine ideas
duffymahoney replied to donnie.petway's topic in Open Discussions
The valve cover changed from 2400 to OHC halfway through 1970. My 1/71 build series 1 has the same one. The valve cover for this time is slightly different from later ones. -
That’s an option. I kind of like the goofy series 1 stuff most people don’t know about. Like me, till yesterday Shortening the driveshaft is the easier route. My overall plan with my z is crate everything that I take off and make everything easy to go back to stock with. Like my stock trans could be back in a few hours at most. Stock diff would be the same.
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I have a series 1. Which I guess means that my diff is further forward then later years. That’s why the series 1 driveshaft is too long. I will cut down an extra series 1 driveshaft I have.
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Ka is in. But I cut down a driveshaft had it balanced and powdercoated. I just used some measurements from posts but they are super off from my z. I really want a 4 post lift. Working under a car on jack stands sucks
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Finally got the ka trans. This is a low mileage (500) miles trans. Been sitting on the shelf since 1989. I found it on some parts website. Vapor and some zinc and it’s looking amazing. Bell housing mods are being done Emerish racing.
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I got the starter put back together. Hopefully it works! Sure looks nicer.
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Osgiken clutch is in. Big thanks to Zgarage for the kit. Install was a breeze.
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She is in. Gosh I hope it works nicely and I didn’t screw up! I really like how the half shafts hades turned out.
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Well shimming the r-180, backlash, pre load and wipe pattern took most of a couple days after work and most of a Saturday morning. I think I took it apart 20+ times. Finally happy with the wipe pattern. Luckily I didn’t have to change the pinion shim. Edit: I think in a perfect world I would have had a special tool to set the pinion nut at the factory 125-150ftlb. Then used different shims to get the bearing pre load perfect. But I had no way, so a couple of hits with the impact is what I used to set pre load, I found that info on here and a few youtube videos. It's not precise at all, just hopeful the factory had it correct enough. A bunch of site posts and a few guru told me to just reuse the pinion shim and move on. Everyone basically told me backlash is the most important. Ended up with 5 thousandths for backlash give or take and then ring side backlash shim if .05 and other side of .07. Total inch pounds is around 8-10 on the pinion. No carrier I had around 3 inch pounds for the pinion. This is worth paying someone to do. Just FYI. I had fun. But super frustrating.
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I wanted to send it back, since it was so blue/ purple, I decided to just live with it.
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Nos 240z starter solenoid score. eBay 9$ shipped! Time to rebuild the starter.
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it's probably a 10mm:)
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I screwed something up in the trans rebuild, it becomes tight with the front cover on, plus I guess I love spending money, so I decided on the KA swap for my 240z. This is a longer tail shaft on the trans, so it should fit in my series 1 better (no cutting), plus the 1st is better gear ratio and 2nd is slightly better. I found a 1989 240sx trans, with 576 miles on it. It's been in storage inside since 12/01/89! Zinc is still in tact. Paid too much for it, but hopefully it's good. The shop tested all the gears and syncros. Troy Emerish Racing will do the bell housing mod. He is just about as cheap as my local machine shop, plus has done a ton of them. Using this info for reference http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/Transmission2.htm http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/Transmission2.htm
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1973 240z Brake / Fuel Lines - SS or CAD
duffymahoney replied to Tirnipgreen's topic in Open Discussions
Stainless lines and steel fittings is very nice. I wouldn't do stainless with stainless, I had to tear a brake line kit in my bronco for that reason. Plating is super super cheap, find a local shop, you will be surprised. I would guess all the brakes and fuel lines would be 50$-75 for me to have plated. Can you get all yours off? Proper brake line wrenchs, heat and time and I got all to break free but 1. -
Hopefully shimming the r180 and getting it installed this weekend. Looks pretty amazing. I ended up getting new side bearing holders. They were 18$ from Subaru with seals. Which seemed too cheap not to replace.
