duffymahoney
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Everything posted by duffymahoney
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Starting to take the trans apart. Curious if I can getting bearings on and off without a press.
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Well results are awesome. I couldn’t be happier. All mating surfaces are free of powder and ready to be put back together
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Powder coating masking is the worse, it's this terrible rigid tape. It works, but not nearly as well as this. If you can sacrifice something to do a firm mask off, it will turn out awesome. This is just my experience in years of powder coating car parts. I am sure there are other ways. My powder shop charges me a lot less if I do the prep/ masking.
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Powder can't go some places and it sucks to remove. The more time I spend prepping the better. The surface has to have zero grease or it ruins the powder coating. This is just a easy method to make sure it comes out nice. They do the same thing with engine blocks.
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I will look into the driveline stuff more. Diff is prepped for powder coating. Inside is clean and empty. I sealed it to minimize sand and powder getting in. I will then burn the powder off the aluminum parts and then wire wheel smooth and vapor blast to look perfect.
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Anyone know what to do about a drive line? Since the 5 speed is shorter then my 4 speed.
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I think they said it was new. Zgarage is testing it this week.
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I have decided to do the 5 speed swap. A fellow z guy had a hoard of parts and hooked me up with a close ratio 5 speed and a later R-180. R180 will be 4.11 gears and OSGiken LSD. Trans will be rebuilt, vapor blasted, then all steel parts will be zinc, powder or professionally painted. Rear end will be powdercoated 60% gloss black, then all steel will be zinc coated. Should look super nice. I am also building a nice crate, which will hold all of my rebuilt original parts, in case I ever want to sell and go back to stock. I am trying to decide on a clutch/ flywheel combo. OSGiken Single clutch unit looks nice and streetable. I am having fun. I am convinced that dirty parts look the best later on. Since the grease protects them.
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First start after a long cold couple months.
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1970 Original Factory Finish of Exhaust Manifold and Heat Shield
duffymahoney replied to hiyabrad's topic in Open Discussions
The heat shield on my 71 series 1 was clear cadium . That was from my zinc shop that had a harder time removing it. -
Looking For Plating Shop Recommendations
duffymahoney replied to Captain Obvious's topic in Open Discussions
I have been zinc plating for a few years, I have used 3 shops, sadly I have zero local options. I ship via priority mail. Usually comes back in a week or two. Whatever shop it is, chat with them about prep. My current shop wants pretty minimal prep unless it's painted or rusty. Also will they do small batches? I prefer smaller batches for say 50-75$. -
I have a 77 bronco:)
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Well I had to pull the hatch vent cover to get to the some of the parts for zinc. The cork had turned to the oddest goo/ glue. Anyone have a foam seal they used for this spot? Needs to be thin 1/8th? Also the tiny brackets for the vent had paint coming off so I had them powder coated. Should outlast the z body:) Only a tiny bit of surface rust in the vent area. I am thinking about converting the rust and doing cavity wax. Thoughts?
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Well they work! I need to tune their tone, it's kind of an odd mix of old and new.
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I will have to find the thread. I’m not restoring mine. But just making it nicer. Someday I might acid bath it and paint it right. Who knows.
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Original wiring harness sticker. This was up by the horns. Pretty neat to find after so many years.
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Horns are rebuilt. I used gasket maker instead of the paper seal. Now time to remove all the original tape from the front wiring harness and redo it.
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It's not powder coated. It's ceramic coated by perforamces coatings in Wa. It's a special cerakote 2000 degree coating. The application was $75. The heat shields are worth 150-200 normally. Especially this one that is so nice. So this is a steal.
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Figure 8 Seal (jet block assembly) solex 44phh
duffymahoney replied to fairladyz432's topic in Triple Mikuni and Webers
If you remove the pump housing, one larger phillips (JIS) screw hold the jet holding block assembly in. It's always a tough screw for me. Probably my least favorite on the carbs. When you install it again, put a tiny bit of grease on the threads. Cheers -
Door, hatch and horn parts are back from zinc. Also tons of nuts and screws. Zinc day is always the best.
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I took the door strikers off to send out for zinc. No rust behind!
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Good question. Either laser cut paper or gasket maker. I honestly don’t know yet.
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I spent an hour taping off the horns to protect the electronics. I then media blasted them. Then took them to a auto paint shop. The rears are single stage 2 part black paint. The grills are powder coated bk06. Just like the rest of my z.
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So I believe the horns came with green zinc on them. Or maybe part had no coating? I decided on powder coating the fronts in black, the backside of them has some deep pitting and I would rather not zinc them. Plus I think gold zinc in the front will look goofy. Then inner parts you see gold zinc. Then back with all the electronics will just need to be media blasted and a nice 2 part paint. I can't figure out a good way to take it apart.
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Rebello has made 2- 3.5L motors to my knowledge. I don't know a lot about it. But I know he used the diesel block.
