duffymahoney

I have a dealer installed AC series 1. The evap is mounted pretty high, about knee height, it's an add on to the stock heater system. Pretty cool actually and worked well. York is the compressor brand, huge 1 cycle motor that was directly above the air pump. It made it almost impossible to adjust timing among a bunch of other things.

I am 100% sure my sanden is some sort of chinese knockoff, but got great reviews! So I am hopeful. All new compressors should be made to run R134, since r-12 is liquid gold, I did ask the seller along with what type of oil is in it. I am borrowing a flush kit and a vacuum. I talked with multi shops/ pros, all said to run my condenser and see how it is. If it's not enough cooling, then swap it. I got some new hoses as well.

I ended up buying a dryer. I believe this is as close to the original as possible. Four Seasons 33280 Filter Drier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSYQXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i6acBb9G2MYNT The bracket needed some machining, then some spacers and a bolt on bracket. Not too much work. I was going to design a full new bracket with an auto idler but decided the Zx bracket was so close might as well adapt it. Plus side if the compressor dies I can always buy another 75$-150 one.

I will do a vacuum and then fill it. It only has one new part that is breakable. That's the 100$ ebay sanden compressor. It will have 40$ in gas which I care more about.

You guys must be HVAC techs. I plan on all new hoses at some point. My ac worked and the oil was still new with no burnt smell. I think I will just hook it up and see. Then this winter do everything new. Does anyone know if I need to change my crank pulley out? I didn't check if the smog pulley was the same V as my ac?

I believe I can use just any off the shelf recharge kit. Thoughts?

So I have been working on this for a while. For reference I have a series 1 with dealer installed AC. It’s a giant York compressor shoved above the smog pump. It was in the way of everything. So hard to work around. I decided it had to go. Most of the sanden ac brackets are steel and don’t use an idler. I really like the idea of an idler to tension. I also love the 280zx aluminum ac bracket. My original plan was a 280zx compressor. But they are pretty speedy. So I ditched the whole idea and started the concept to adapt a sanden ac compressor with a v pulley. I had a buddy fabricate some new brackets and boom. Everything lines up. I vapor blasted the mount, got the pulley zinc’d and same with the hardware. Plus the rest is powder coated black and a new bearing. Then got a sanden off eBay for like 100$. It was supposed to be zinc’d but came powder coated. Oh well. Should bolt right up. I will reuse all my lines but one. Which got too close to exhaust. The rest are still in great shape. Hopefully it work! A few of the pictures have the idler bolt installed wrong. I have since fixed it.

So had a major major issue with my dizzy. Which was retarding the motor with any throttle. Which made timing impossible, it ran crazy lean and sounded lame. That is now fixed. Runs and sounds like a different z. Review 2.0 of the new system. Sounds meaty, but still quiet enough around town, but open her up and she sounds awesome. I am beyond happy with it. I will try to do a youtube video post, I still need to tune the carbs better and take it somewhere where I can rev the motor without upsetting my neighbors.

I could pull it up. But super easy. It’s just cut back 1/2” from the edge and sewn on the bottom. It keeps the carpets from moving as well.

I put some holes in my carpet for my straps. I always thought they looked cool!

Ok ran into tons of issues! First was my vacuum advance was frozen. So I took that apart and cleaned the crap out of it. It's now greased and moves nicely. My biggest issue was the dizzy counter weights have these pins that slide into slots on the ears. Well for some reason the previous owner thought it was smart to not have that hooked up correctly. So everytime you stepped on the gas the timing would retard a lot!! Thus causing so many terrible issues. It's now fixed and working like it should! The engine sounds night and day different! Also go all my carpets bound to mass loaded vinyl. The interior is night and day more quiet.

This was after a full day of trying to start it. So battery was most like dead. Well hopefully. I will check next time I try and run it. I found my carbs were empty of oil. I don't know why I assumed that the past owner shipped them with oil. So that is my next step. I will also make sure that TDC is 0 on my crank pulley. Then work my way forward from that. But I assume the carbs being out of oil is what was causing my tuning to be so incorrect. Thanks!

Honestly don’t know! Seems odd for sure. This was cruising at 35 mph. Head lights were on. It’s the stock alternator

Next is a leak down. I am at worst 8% off on my compression. So for now that is fine, I’m sure the valves need adjusting. I also bought a colortune spark plug (clear spark plug to see combustion color)

Having some running issues. My vacuum advance wasn’t operating correctly. Took it apart and cleaned it and the breaker plate. It didn’t move freely at all. It’s now moving nicely and lightly greased, vacuum holds fine so it’s good. So It was affecting me tuning my carbs. Then my stupid flow meter broke. I need to send it back. But I also bought a unisync. I am running lean. White spark plugs and intake backfire. I decided to do a compression test numbers aren’t as close as I would like Compression 1-155 2-160 3-162 4-164 5-158 6-153

My block breathing tube was already cut and a 90 is there. It would clear it fine, maybe 1/2" clearance. I bought a NOS one and will install this week. There wasn't an option for internal diameter. So I got whatever was sold. I assume it's my motor related for the noise. She isn't running correct yet. Also she is small at 2.4:)

Got it installed. Here is my overall quick review. It's pretty quiet 800-1600 rpms. Almost weirdly quite. I have a bone stock 2.4L so that has something to do with it. Above 3k rpms it starts to sound like a z. But not really throaty. Again that is probably from being a bone stock motor. I will try to take a video and post it. I was hoping for more of the sound people have in videos, but I guess I have no idea what rpm that is at when the rev.

Well got a ton done and really drove it! I removed the dealer AC unit. I will be modifying a aluminum 280zx mount to use a sanden pump later on. My giant ac pump makes it impossible to get to so many things. It had to go. New fujitsubo (just came out) exhaust is in. Sounds great. My motor is bone stock, so it doesn't sound super beefy, below 2-3k rpms it almost sounds like any other car. But get on it and it opens up. I will try to post a sound clip soon. I was able to use my extra series 1 heat shield, just a few bends and it fits great. The ztheraphy carbs were easy to install and tune. My old ones are all gummed up and I couldn't adjust mixture. My flow meter died, so I still would like to re-tune and mess with timing more. My biggest issue came when I went to start it. I didn't mark on my old dist cap which was #1. Installed wires on the cap in stock location and nothing happened, it wouldn't try, etc.... I had so many new things new so I started with the carbs. Checked fuel, checked, ignition wiring (petronixs 1.5ohm coil, nos ballast and electronic points). Still nothing. I then found TDC and low and behold my dizzy is 2 cylinders off speared into the oil pump. Moved wires (#1 is where 4 should be now) and it fired right up! So now at some point I need to pull the oil pump and fix. First time really driving it. Some harder pulls, some turns etc.. Even stock motor it's a blast to drive. Sort of scary, lots of road noise, but it was awesome! Not a lot of gas fumes, smells, which i am happy about. Engine bay puts off a ton of heat even with the ceramic coating on the header. Next is Sanden pump install, along with a new dryer, lines and evap. Also I am binding mass loaded vinyl to the bottom of my new carpets for some sound damping. Oil pressure is reading low, I really hope it's the sending unit. Motor has good compression (I need to re test, I got a new gauge) and doesn't burn any oil I can see.

My exhaust says it's " It is only compatible with safety standard conformity product 2 seater exclusive Super EX (510-15037) It is incompatible with original EX Mani and Super EX (510-15036) So I am guessing the only option is 510-1535 and 510-15307. Looks like the 510-1535 is equal length header. Which is pretty awesome.

I never thought you were going mad. But we know that this header works and was designed around the new system (510-15037) . I can measure but I don't see a point. It couldn't be higher. I think they maxed out the design to a crazy tolerance for tuck. Fitment looks basically identical to the pictures posted. I will be curious to see how the 510-1535 (ex-mani) fits around the steering and su's. I like the look of the newer header ex-mani more then mine, but it wasn't for sale when I ordered mine (at least what fujitsubo told me). Looks like the changed the tubes a lot. Same size tubes in both headers. I would be curious why. Probably some sort of flow improvement I would guess. I also don't see it listed on their site yet (which isn't easy to navigate), I am willing to bet it launches fully June 1st. When the backorder will be done.

Fitment is awesome. I can’t believe how well it tucks. The header must be correct or at least made for the newer system. Its on and mostly tight. I might tweak it a tiny bit. The exhaust tips are ever so slightly off angle and one more exhaust hanger and it’s done. I tried working from the back forward. Which didn’t work. Then I tried middle forward which didn’t work. Engine back worked great. I love learning from mistakes.

Do you have it?

Maybe that’s only rhd? Who knows. But this is the header they are selling for the system now. They are back ordered till June. Maybe they will do the upgraded header then? I hope it works

Maybe they changed the design after the article? Who knows until I try and bolt it up. So current offerings for headers is 510-15035 and 510-15037 . The exhaust says it only bolts to 510-15037, which is what I have, which matches pictures if you google 510-15037. So again fingers crossed:)

It's not, looks virtually identical. Old is 510-15036