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duffymahoney
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Everything posted by duffymahoney
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Triple OER/SK carb issues, not balancing (SOLVED)
duffymahoney replied to Jazz86's topic in Triple Mikuni and Webers
Could you swap 1 and 2. That will show you for sure if it’s float or needle? -
Triple OER/SK carb issues, not balancing (SOLVED)
duffymahoney replied to Jazz86's topic in Triple Mikuni and Webers
I really liked the gas line routing. I was planning on copying it actually, I like the idea of a return line to the tank. What fuel pump are you using? Stock? Electric? Both? I like the idea of using stock fuel lines. You might try plugging the return to see if it pushes fuel into each better? -
Powder is thicker then paint. But that depends on how much is used, I had him go thin. Powder melts at around 500 degrees. I can see the half shafts getting that hot. All surfaces mate up nicely with the powder. I guess I could remove it. But I could just check all bolts after a break in period. Which was my plan already. Any other input? Don’t the bolts hold it in place?
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Yeah he wants the mating surfaces to be metal on metal. Only thing that has me arguing is the fact that the rear end had paint on the surface from the factory. On each side of the rear end.
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Got the drive lines back today from having u joints pressed in. They came out pretty good, paint/ powder had some nicks from their press, so I had to do some touch up paint. The tech didn't like the powder on the end of the flanges. He said the powder will eventually wear down and cause slop. Anyone heard of this? Or think he is correct?
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They make rebuild kits for them, depends on what is wrong with yours.
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Have them bring it to the store, if it's a stock reman then you are good, most likely it will be a knock off.
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Evap tank or gas tank? I assume you are talking about the gas tank, I will either use a stainless rod bent, or a spring, I haven't decided yet, tank should be done and back this week.
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Hard to tell, but I think there is, it's depth matches stock.
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Let me know if you want to trade:) I am sure it will sell quickly.
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Got the new 5/8 line in the mail today and got all lines replaced, this is the last of my lines that were old and brittle. It was a pain, but glad I got to clean the area and check for rust and get new grommets installed.
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It is gigantic! I would like the option of AC, I might look into the zx ac bracket and pump and upgrade my system. If I can use most of the parts.
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Wow, this is basically perfect in my eyes, worth every penny. Good luck on the sale, I would have bought this instead of my build if I would have known. Cheers!
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Since I have a series 1 the brake lines are reversed on the wilwood MC. So I had to buy lines and bend them. What a pain, they don't look great, but I was about to throw them in the garbage when I finally figured it out. I also removed some over spray and also cleaned up some wiring around the coil. Also got my fake wats star wars rogue squadron hub cap centers! Dorky, but I love them. Broke off the exhaust studs, tried welding to them, but my welds just break. I think my two options are either remove the manifold or drill and tap, if I can get them drilled out easily.
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I bent my own lines, it was a pain, but it ended up working. They are switched, it's hard to see in the picture.
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Not a lot of force, mine was bad, same early design. Ended up going wilwood.
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I am switching all stock hoses out, all look pretty good but are brittle or cracked. I decided against braided, partly because all I found said they won't work with ethanol and partly because I don't want the braids trapping dirt and grease. I got all but the larger diameter installed (close to 5/8). The 5/8th I got was a strangely large OD. So it wouldn't work. Found one online that will though. Routing them was a pain. Going with all hoses rated for ethanol. The evap tank is crazy design. Also replaced all the grommets. I am so happy with the level of rust on this Z. This area sure looks amazing.
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Well the wilwood 1" MC fits and the stock air cleaner can barely I mean barely can come on and off. You have to move the the bleeders to the other sides. I also set the pushrod around 8mm longer then stock, I ended up measuring the depth of stock and going off of that, this is because the wilwood is deeper. Now I just need to bend new lines and it should be ready. I got the unit off of california datsun, came setup for the z with fittings and drilled out.
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I got my 205/55 R15s mounted. They look a little goofy right now (too much side wall), but I bet when they are actually on they will look better.
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I have ac. So it was even worse.
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I didn’t change the valve. It looks brand new and holds pressure. Fingers crossed! Also tested the heater core. But it could still be bad.
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Got my dunlop 205/55-15, they don't look very big! Also if anyone has ever had to change the heater core hoses, knows my pain, that sucked. But almost all rubber hoses are replaced as of now.
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You could have it vapor blasted.