duffymahoney

I would not say ITB is easy, but I am not giving up. Emtron has a tuning method for their ecu, it's called Throttle Mass Flow. Basically knowing before throttle plate and after throttle plate pressure, throttle position, plus temp, plus throttle size they can calculate air going into the motor at anytime. Having the ECU know that gives it an ability to self tune and run. I will be swapping ECUs soon.

Turning an old car from carbs to EFI isn't super simple, also nobody tends to do it the same way. That is why there is no how to, I also don't want to write such a thing. I would consider myself a newbie at best. Why do you want efi? Su carbs are awesome and highly underated. If I was smart, I would put mine back on. Going ITB, has been extremely challenging. Luckily there is more info now and new ecu's are coming out that address some of the issues with ITB. A few things to think about. All of these can be solved with money, if you have it. How will the ecu know what stroke it's on? There are a few ways to do this, cam trigger, crank triggers, flywheel etc.. Plenum or ITB What ECU Are you good at wiring? Whats your end goal?

Something in from Australia! A progressive cam for the overhead bar and my ITB. It would also work with triples. Basically it increases pedal modulation, so this gives you more pedal movement with less throttle blade movement. Should help with street driving and my throttles trying to take huge gulps of air with a tiny amount of pedal travel. Weber kc332 Now machined out to 10mm. Just barely enough room. I had to have the allen bolt turned down.

I have an original SK airbox for those. Nos. It's funky and a rectangle, but if you interested pm me.

Going triples isn't for the faint of heart. If you love to tinker, or have access to a local carb tuner, then I say go for it. If that isn't your cup of tea, stay away. They are not just bolt on and go.

Replacing gaskets and cleaning doesn't take long, so it shouldn't be too expensive. I would say 2-3 hours worth of work. Completely taking them apart, vapor blasting or similar, all new zinc hardware, fully setup takes a lot of time and will cost $.

Kyushahouse would be about as good as it gets for SK carbs. They are on the rarer side here in the states. OER still makes and sells parts for them, but it's hard to get them here these days.

I am using the 240z hand throttle system. On my pedal. It was 41 here this am, soon it will be 20-32 in the am, then warm up to the 50-60s during the day. Then soon it will snow and the z will go to sleep.

Using a hand throttle for cold starts.

Good old 70s cars and wiring. such a poor original soldier. Turn signal fixed. IMG_1066.MOV IMG_1066.MOV IMG_1066.MOV

Low rpms stop to just rolling stumbles a bit. Could be 100 things, but just trying this. My brain thinks it should help low end torque.

Gorgeous engine bay! I can't cover my stacks, seeing them is part of my love for ITB. On my list to do are the custom stack filters (like singer) and then a belly pan that directs fresh air to the horns.

Also trying some bug screens

Now that my ITB is running nicely. Should I try my SK / OER inner fits? Poor google translates to power torque of the concave fast limits improves. Power torque in the medium and low speed range is impoved. Sort of like a jet nozzle. They come in 30, 34 and 38mm. I have 8x 38mm and 4x 34mm

I finally got my car remote tuned. I had a few settings I didn’t understand, totally wrong, then my biggest issue is my iac. The haltech ecu doesn’t like my balance bar setup. I won’t give up. But I ended up plugging it for my road tuning. First impressions is wow. The car feels so fast. Even peels out a little, which seems crazy for a bone stock 2.4L. Wot passes sound magical. I ended up using Animal Tuning, who works for haltech and tunes on the side. I have dual o2 sensors, 1-3 and 4-6. 1-3 needed about 5% more fuel to obtain the same afr. Which was a pretty cool feature. Next is more wot passes and making sure AFR is on to protect the motor.

I finally got my car remote tuned. I had a few settings I didn’t understand, totally wrong, then my biggest issue is my iac. The haltech ecu doesn’t like my balance bar setup. I won’t give up. But I ended up plugging it for my road tuning. First impressions is wow. The car feels so fast. Even peels out a little, which seems crazy for a bone stock 2.4L. Wot passes sound magical. I ended up using Animal Tuning, who works for haltech and tunes on the side. I have dual o2 sensors, 1-3 and 4-6. 1-3 needed about 5% more fuel to obtain the same afr. Which was a pretty cool feature. Next is more wot passes and making sure AFR is on to protect the motor.

100% hands free cold start, warmed up and idling below 1k. ITB and IAC playing nicely.

Maybe contact a small retail shop? https://www.sakuragarage.com/product-page-2/fujitsubo-legalis-r

Part of the fun of these cars is the frustration dealing with Japan:)

I bought from Streeter Corp, Jesse is great to deal with and gets you better pricing then RHD. He also can get answers from the factory.

Well of my 4 ignition switches. One works fine. Wired stock. So I plan to just use it! Thanks everyone for the help!

Tried it and it worked fine. I would have to make the wiring nicer. But happy it worked. all of my switches are the same.

Well this works fine. Jumping the B/W and G/L.

If I connect behind the switch, when I turn to on wont the starter turn over?

Which black and white is that?