duffymahoney
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Everything posted by duffymahoney
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Good old 70s cars and wiring. such a poor original soldier. Turn signal fixed. IMG_1066.MOV IMG_1066.MOV IMG_1066.MOV
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Low rpms stop to just rolling stumbles a bit. Could be 100 things, but just trying this. My brain thinks it should help low end torque.
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Gorgeous engine bay! I can't cover my stacks, seeing them is part of my love for ITB. On my list to do are the custom stack filters (like singer) and then a belly pan that directs fresh air to the horns.
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Also trying some bug screens
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Now that my ITB is running nicely. Should I try my SK / OER inner fits? Poor google translates to power torque of the concave fast limits improves. Power torque in the medium and low speed range is impoved. Sort of like a jet nozzle. They come in 30, 34 and 38mm. I have 8x 38mm and 4x 34mm
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I finally got my car remote tuned. I had a few settings I didn’t understand, totally wrong, then my biggest issue is my iac. The haltech ecu doesn’t like my balance bar setup. I won’t give up. But I ended up plugging it for my road tuning. First impressions is wow. The car feels so fast. Even peels out a little, which seems crazy for a bone stock 2.4L. Wot passes sound magical. I ended up using Animal Tuning, who works for haltech and tunes on the side. I have dual o2 sensors, 1-3 and 4-6. 1-3 needed about 5% more fuel to obtain the same afr. Which was a pretty cool feature. Next is more wot passes and making sure AFR is on to protect the motor.
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I finally got my car remote tuned. I had a few settings I didn’t understand, totally wrong, then my biggest issue is my iac. The haltech ecu doesn’t like my balance bar setup. I won’t give up. But I ended up plugging it for my road tuning. First impressions is wow. The car feels so fast. Even peels out a little, which seems crazy for a bone stock 2.4L. Wot passes sound magical. I ended up using Animal Tuning, who works for haltech and tunes on the side. I have dual o2 sensors, 1-3 and 4-6. 1-3 needed about 5% more fuel to obtain the same afr. Which was a pretty cool feature. Next is more wot passes and making sure AFR is on to protect the motor.
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100% hands free cold start, warmed up and idling below 1k. ITB and IAC playing nicely.
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Maybe contact a small retail shop? https://www.sakuragarage.com/product-page-2/fujitsubo-legalis-r
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Part of the fun of these cars is the frustration dealing with Japan:)
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I bought from Streeter Corp, Jesse is great to deal with and gets you better pricing then RHD. He also can get answers from the factory.
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Well of my 4 ignition switches. One works fine. Wired stock. So I plan to just use it! Thanks everyone for the help!
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Tried it and it worked fine. I would have to make the wiring nicer. But happy it worked. all of my switches are the same.
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Well this works fine. Jumping the B/W and G/L.
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If I connect behind the switch, when I turn to on wont the starter turn over?
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Which black and white is that?
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I guess I don’t get that. I will try to wrap my head around it.
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What about simple 12v in line diodes (one way)? That way the ecu gets 12v in on and start, minimal issues
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Will you explain this a little more?
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It's as if Nissan didn't want me to do this:)
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The pink ecu wire, doesn't carry a load, it supplys the relay to the ECU. I would need power in the ON and the START. The best way to do that is now my?
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Lost power to the ECU while cranking, everything works fine in the on position. If I barely crank the ECU stays on and the car starts.
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Well this is the oem new switch. The B/W loses 12v during cranking. The G/W only gets 12v during cranking. I think my option is to tie both parts of the switch together so I get 12v in the on and during cranking. Thoughts? Again, I am not using the stock coil and the stock tach wiring.
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Well I am doubting my tests on my new switch. Since it had a broken terminal.
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Well the terminal fell off on my brand new switch. I have another coming tomorrow on accident. Hopefully it’s better.
