duffymahoney
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Everything posted by duffymahoney
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240z hidden drive by wire actuator for my ITB setup. This is design number 4. This plan utilizes a Efi hardware actuator. The goal is the same length arm to the bell crank and distances from shafts and the rod. So the rod passes through the firewall evenly and doesn’t walk from left to right. This will mount to the pedal plate and the steering box mounts. So behind the firewall Prior designs walked too much in the hole and I don’t want that.
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I bought them as well!
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A little update on my 3.1L! This motor was actually finished 3 years ago, but was tragically in a shop fire. Luckily the engine wasn’t too close to the flames and it was spared. It’s getting close to finished and then going into my 1971 240z! My 3.1L 10.2:1 compression ratio 88.5mm bore. N42 block. Sonic tested. LD crank by marine crankshaft. Crank Off-set grind to 84.6 stroke. Finish rod journals @ 1.8889" Thrust Finish 1.27”R & R plugs with threaded plugs Dynamic Balance Ion-Plasma nitride, straighten & micro-Micro polish all journals E31 head. Port work by Andrew Kazanis Dsi valves, titanium retainers. Isky springs. Bonk cam. I got it in NOS or near new condition prior to porting. Rebello JE Eagle pistons and toyota rods 221 CFM flow at .45-.5 lift. With rougAndrew Kazanis sizes. Mine is 88.5x88.5x.25x3.14159x 84.6x6 /1000 = 3122cc Thank you Andrew Kazanis for all the help and your magically porting work.
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You can get a oil temp sensor, oil pressure is a must sensor for the ecu.
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Just Another Damned Z Car Project Thread
duffymahoney replied to conedodger's topic in Open Discussions
Sweet! Working on the actuator, I am now trying the efihardware one. -
Could it be tie rod roll?
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I love it when a plan comes together. This is custom titanium banjos, which will come off my balance bar and hold my heat shield on!
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Let's show vintage racing pictures. I'll start.
duffymahoney replied to conedodger's topic in RACING
My friend Andrew just rebuilt this motor and has been working on this historic Z race car. Pretty epic
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Well I got my prototypes in for my passive cooling on my Efi hardware throttles! These will be between the heat shield and the throttle bodies. Also it will be a nice and clean way to run the return fuel.
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Custom grade 5 titanium studs of my design. I am so tired of installing the old studs and I hate the look of the allen ones. I designed intake, exhaust, my intake balance banjos, knock sensor stud, stack studs and my intake intake/ throttle studs! The flat spots work perfect with a box wrench. I also love the look of a rounded tip on a stud. I think they came out awesome, after testing I will be selling. I bought enough, that they should be fairly cost effective as well.
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Bosch off a BMW. I ordered the studs already! They are nice and cheap.
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Dual L6 knock sensors using the stock block m6 hot water pipe mounts. They are actually about perfectly placed! These are just ti prototype. I am designing my own and will be adding them to the things I make and sell.
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So fast!
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Well drive by linkage is fast and accurate. Pretty darn stoked. I might try a few more actuators. Since the one I picked is being discontinued (BMW S54 13627840537) This should make anyone doing ITBs life much easier. Cold starts, traction, AC, intelligent throttle curves. This is just hooking it straight to a 12v source. So it’s just on or off. Actually when wired to the ecu, closing will be faster. This is returning via springs. When hooked up to the ecu. It’s powered open and closed.
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Wow is all I can say 464f5f2c-e7c2-4dd9-affb-6d86115b0fea.mp4
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Juan Sanchez is a real dude, I have bought and sold stuff to him.
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Here is the length.
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New ITB intake is getting sent off to China to CNC cut! This fixes a few mistakes on the first version and also gives me the stock J-hook pivot as an option. It will feature a bolt on banjo balance bar and ideal injector angles. It's slightly longer then the last version as well.
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Rebuilding doesn't take that long. It really depends on how deep you go and how crusty they are. Are circuits need to be cleaned and checked, new seals. Most of the rebuilders vapor hone, new zinc hardware, new gaskets, new butterflies and shafts. I would guess its about 1 hour to dissemble all 3. Then around 1 hour to put them back together very well. The other steps would depend on a bunch of factors.
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I have bought and sold a lot of mikunis, the cleaner and nicer they are the better, a few of the guys rebuilding them charge an arm and a leg to do it. Ebay, Bring a trailer, facebook are all good spots to sell them.
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Well it works. But the firewall flexes too much (1-2mm) IMG_2655.mov , next I will try to mount to the pedal box which doesn’t flex at all. I also want to keep the arm movement on the same plane. Currently actuator is up and down and bell crank is left to right.
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Something fun I have been working on! I really want drive by wire on my 240z. But figuring out a location for the actuator has been tough to say the least. I don’t want it hanging over the intake. This is a 100% bolt in adapter featuring a BMW 6 cylinder actuator and a 350z pedal. This will attach to stock linkage and drive my ITBs. Hopefully it works! The pivot arcs a far bit, so that might not work and the pedal mount might flex too much? Time will tell. This would allow me modern cold starts, any sort of progressive pedal movement I could want. Full idle control, traction control, valet mode, cruise control and way easier tuning. We 3D scanned the pedal area and the actuator to mock it all up in CAD! All of this is 5axis cut out of 6061.
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I will have a bolt in drive by linkage actuator, that goes behind the firewall. I have it 95% done. I will also offer a double pull cam for it as well, so two throttle cables. It will use the 350z pedal.
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I am designing a bolt in Drive by linkage setup, if you had aftermarket ecu, then maybe!
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My 3.1 is going back together! 48035565-3f87-41e9-8969-6a890e052731.mp4
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