duffymahoney

Fine, a medium amount of tuning

I figured out all my ITB issues. My fancy no contact tps sensor has this goofy huge 0 volt rest area. I had it clocked, but from 0-75% throttle the tps didn’t change at all. Then 75%-100% throttle it would move. Basically 0-1.1 volts at full throttle. So it would bounce .00-.15 volts and the ecu thought that was like 0-10% throttle. So clocked it 70 degrees. Starts around 2volts and goes to 4.3 volts. It’s super happy. Somehow this took forever to figure out. I can be so dumb. Now I can actually start to tune it. FullSizeRender.mov

I have 2 friends with DSI motors with the PCV port blocked. Glad he isn't doing that anymore.

I think it would just go out the valve cover? I have no clue.

Boggling that his answer is just leave the vapors in the block.

Stock PCV valve, and a grommet set from my local Napa. That's it. I bought all they had, I think like 3 boxes of random ones.

Ok, here is my plan. It's a bit complex. Some pcv grommet from a multi pack, fits the stock check valve and block perfectly. I might end up moving this upstream, I am a little afraid of it getting oil trapped in it. Then BSPT adapter to hose barb. Hose barb to a true air filtering catch can. Catch can will be a billet version of the mann provent 100 or 150. Filter media gets 93% of particles prior to hitting my intake. I plan to change the filter every 1-2 oil changes. It will mount to existing 240z holes on the fender. Then from the filtering catch can, to the intake. This is all just for the lower block PCV. I haven't decided what to do about the valve cover one.

Lots of tuning to go! But she is alive IMG_3354.MOV

5 axis milled from a single block.

Final touches on this new R35 coil bracket design. Next is laser cutting for final test fitment. Joseph Monti did a great job with this design, the boot angle was all his idea. Previously the coil boots had a huge curve in them, which we both hated, this splits the difference (22.5 degrees). I also disliked the coil head angle I had originally decided on. This new coil head angle keeps the wiring nice and secured.

Finally figured out how to get the vac tube to clear the linkage. Last piece of the linkage puzzle is done IMG_2779.MOV

Well the plan works and i finally found time this am to finish it. Balanced vac, pcv, hidden wires. All with vintage SK ITB. Why do I do this to myself!? Gosh I love to tinker. Now to see if she will run again, which the neighbors love.

My new current pcv plan. Slightly filtered, oil catched then back into my throttle bodies vac balance log. I will figure out a better filter later on.

Andrew does love a oil spray bar. It would be tough to argue one over the other.

My engine builder loves them, it's a brand new one. You like internal?

Nope. Only Datsuns I have driven is my families 510 wagon growing up and my stock 2.4

Stroker is ready to drop in. Finding time lately has been rough. IMG_2282.MOV

Somehow this window track was bent? Seems impossible.

Dammit, that is a far simpler solution then I came up with.

Next is figuring out pcv and ITB. This idea came from Tony Degara. Pretty darn genius and simple! This utilizes the stock pcv valve and it will feed directly into the center of my vacuum balance bar. The AN fitting is just for mock up, but I love the look. I think using the stock crank case tube works the best since it gets it out past the header. This is some Acura pcv grommet. I got another one that works directly into the block.

I went with clear anodized fuel fittings. I think it gives it a vintage look. My fpr mount works awesome.

I believe it's an AEM. 1/8 NPT. Then I found some adapter for 3/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT. But my memory sucks. I might have retapped it to npt? Which is my normal go to.

That should be a fairly easy install then!

Ignition will depend on what you pick, what dizzy or what coils etc.. So I can't really help. But it was all simple, coils share a common 12v, ground then 6 total trigger wires. Cas will also depend on the type. I am using the stock tach now and it works great.

Gas tank looks great! I got the non terminated harness, I did all terminations and looming myself. So the lengths are all specific to my install. On my last build (classic bronco) I didn't do that, and I would have to coil up extra wiring and I was never happy with it.