pclements

I see the windshield, sun visor and head liner still in the car. If you are not removing them you had better cover them well. The grinding sparks and welding splatter will embed metal in the glass and burn holes in the rest.

As the title says. I have cut out the rear quarter smaller than the replacement panel, and I am ready to start drilling out the spot welds. While looking at how the two parts of the inner fender and the body are spot welded together I am wondering if it might be easier to remove the whole rear fender to give access to the inner fenders? I have replaced on other cars many quarter panels, rockers, and such so this is just a question of access and advice. I will also be replacing floor pans, rockers, front quarters and under the battery tray. The car is down to a bare shell and has been media blasted. Thanks for your insight.

Very nice, great job!

I saw this on Denver's craigslist, are they dreaming or will it sell? It is a good looking original. https://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/d/1971-datsun-240z/6617104429.html Corrected link.

In the picture of the passenger open door, what are the holes in the door frame left bottom in this picture? Just behind the door sill

There is a pair for sale on Craigslist Denver now.

Wow, what a great job!! I really how you caught the Z reflection on the upper quarter between the hatch and body line.

Jerry, thank you for the offer. I think my idea will work fine. And it is cheap. A 42"x42" platform should give enough surface area for a Z shell.

I dropped my 240z body shell off for media blasting last Friday, at the time it was a rolling shell. Now it is just a shell on a rotisserie for complete blasting. To bring it home I was thinking of building a simple auto body cart using a pallet and 2x6 under it that the wheels will be attached to. The pallet I have is not wide enough to mount wheels to and then roll up the tire rails of my trailer. The pallet is 42"x42"x5.5". I think this will work, any thoughts? Thank you.

I should clarify the part I am looking for is welded onto the lower radiator support cross member and the bottom bracket of the grill bolts to this part.

I know this support is spot welded on, if you have one in good condition that has the spot welds drilled out. I need one. Thank you

Thank you both. I do agree with modern cars offering more protection. I don't think I will go thru all of the work to match them for the impact bars that very few will ever see. Also thank you for the link, it was interesting to read about the changes.

Just wondering when Datsun put the heavier impact rail inside the 240z doors? the car I bought had a heavy bar in the drivers door and a light weight on in the passenger. the two replacement doors I bought are the opposite. From a safety point I would like to have the heavy bar in both doors. Is it worth swapping the door skins? My car is dated 5-72.

Thank you very much for those measurements. Your work is a inspiration for me and my 72. Again thank you.

I am getting ready to build a rotisserie may I ask on your rotisserie what the distance is from the top of your horizontal front/rear to the lower side of the pivot? Are you using the bumper mounts at both ends? Any drop from the pivot or just straight? Thank you

Hole wheat, perfect lol. I had not seen a tapered screw-in grease zerk like that before. I learned something new. Thank you.

I am new to this forum but not new to cars. Seeing a reference to using a chisel to get the pilot bushing out there is a easier way and you don't damage the flywheel. Jam a slice or two of bread into the pilot bushing and then hammer it down with metal dowel that just fits inside the bushing (I have cut off the threads of a bolt), continue adding bread and pounding it in the bushing. The compressed bread will drive the bushing out slick as can be and once bushing is out dig the bread out with a small screwdriver or pick. The bread will come out easily and leaves the flywheel undamaged and clean. I know it sounds crazy but try it next time. Pat