Home Built by Jeff

This one is Fibreglass, not Urethane so it should not flex a crazy amount. I am still going to use the factory C pillar mount for the redirect so the angles will be as per factory. It is because the inertia reels are designed to be mounted vertically otherwise they won't work properly.

In this episode I sort out the final fit up of the front end.

In this episode, I tackle the trimming on the rear wheel arches.

I did actually look at that, but it looks like I have one 240z door and on 260z door. The other handle will only work on the passenger side. Grrr!

I have spent the last week sweating it out in the heat fitting seatbelts and reassembling the doors.

Mine was a new genuine Nissan one from a one off seller (it was US$69). I did a quick search and there is one in the US on ebay at the moment for not much more. Just do a search ?

I have got one coming from Japan for about AU$100. Nissan in Aus wanted around $350!

This week I redo my Datsun's dash repair with a factory style textured finish.

That is a good idea, I will do that while I can still get to it.

I just went and had a look at that. They actually look very good. I will se how my end result is when it is done and make my final decision then.

In this episode I have a go at repairing the dash and also modify and fit an accelerator cable to my Z.

In this episode I install the electric fuel pump and tidy up some more of the engine bay in the 680g

I am installing the pump today and that video will be out tonight. Are you running yours with a return or not? I have ordered a regulator anyway, so wee will see how it all comes together.

That is some great information. I have a K&N fuel pump I am installing that makes 4-7psi, so I will need to order a fuel pressure regulator to go with it. I will aim to set it up something like the picture above.

This week I finish up the Toyota big brake upgrade on the 680g.

Merry Christmas and Happy Boxing day to you all. Today I tinkered a bit and I got the carbies installed

It is more a matter of what I can get that will fit. I still have some research to do in that area, although as the rims are right to the edge of the flares, I will probably err on the narrow side.

So if I am too lazy to pour through 11 years of threads, those who did the swap I have done, what was the result? Either way I will be putting mine together and checking the actual results I get. We will see. I get jaded about some of these long threads as there are so many contradictory impressions, that it is difficult to separate the 'wheat from the chaff'. I just went through something similar headaches trying to work out the best width and offset for wheels to fit ZG flares. You would think that it has been done for years and there would be plenty of info available, but I searched countless threads on different forums and couldn't find anything useful. I ended up manually going through and measuring the width and offset of the factory wheels and then measuring where I wanted them to sit. I ended up getting 15x9 -20 all round which I have just received and they look like they will sit just right.

I think this is definitely a worthwhile discussion. Adding the Toyota callipers on the front increases the braking surface, so on that percentage I could see 85/15, but does that take into account the greater volume of fluid that needs to be moved? I am imagining that the Toyota callipers require more pedal travel to get them to engage than the factory ones, could it even out the balance (as the rears would still lock at the same travel as before) or even send more bias towards the rear?

70/30 would make all tyres stop evenly. 50/50 and you would have the rears lock before the front due to weight transfer. I learned very quickly during my drifting days when you are sliding backwards and stomp the brake the fronts lock up and just drag (similar to when you pull the handbrake when you are going forward). The quickest way to pull up when you are sliding backwards is to pull the handbrake which essentially flips the bias.

I gather you are saying is to bypass the external valve and just connect the front and rear lines directly to the two outlets from the master cylinder?

I reused the old ones as they didn't come in the weatherstripping kit I bought. I was prepared for a change in brake bias, but I was unsure what the difference would be. I know the MCM guys deleted the factory bias set up. Is the factory one adjustable? It appears to have an adjustment on it, but I am not sure what it does. I don't really understand why it has a factory valve like that anyway, with the twin style master set up, as I would have thought the factory would have just built in the correct balance? My plan is to adjust the factory set up if I can get the balance right that way, otherwise I can just add an aftermarket bias valve to sort it out. The issue I have, like you saw in this latest one with the 260z struts, is that I don't really know what issues I am going to face until I get to it. Particularly as I don't know the history of the car, and I didn't pull it apart, so everything is just a matter of suck it and see.

In this episode I attempt the Toyota 'Big Brake' upgrade on the Z, and also tidy up that rear end.

I do have copies of the manuals, but even after I put a cap in the side of the Thermostat, the manifold wouldn't have fit. The part I removed was just extra casting, so I am not too worried. As for the studs, Nissan here is useless at sourcing parts now it is all computerised. Unless I am buying a part for a 5 year old Altima, they have no idea. I am heading out today and I should be able to source something.

Time to start bolting on some shiny bits to the 680G