crash131313

well guys i recieved the new switch (aftermarket NOT oem) and i seems to have the same dead spot but not as bad to where the car will finally start on its own without ether. but only if i barely turn it to the start side. i just ordered the oam switch for only a few bucks more (should have done that from the get-go) but at least it is starting and running great now. again thank you all for the help. it has been very much appreciated and would have probably cost a small fortune and a ton of pride to take to a shop for such a small problem. i will let you know as soon i get the oem switch installed. thank you thank you thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DOES ANYONE KNOW THE EXACT LOCATION FOR THE FENDER SIDE VIEW MIRRORS ON A 280Z??? PREFERABLY A DIAGRAM

it was only 25 bucks. is it a pain in the butt to remove an install the new one????

new ignition switch is ordered and will be here tomorrow. ill let you guys know as soon its working.

holy $^!# it started on its own!!!!! i tried just turning the switch from on to start very slowly and it started right up. that must be the problem. just a dead spot in the switch. thank you thank you thank you!!!!

wow that video is very informational. and makes perfect sense. i guess thats what im troubleshooting next thanks dave

how can i check the start switch??

thats what i figured dave thanks. this is so frustrating

i also pulled three opposing plugs and they are dry

well i have disconnected the starter wire and the fuel pump is pumping just fine in the "on" and "start" positions. however the electric h2o pump shuts off in the "start" position. could that have anything to do with it???? i am at a loss of thought now

oh and captain where are the fuel pump relays located???

i have not had a chance to try anything yet since i work all night and sleep all day like a damn vampire but i will try this first captain. when i was first sceptical if i was getting fuel i pulled a few plugs and they seemed to be dry when cold. so this makes sense that maybe the fuel pump is not running when the key is engaged in the start position. again i thank you all for the attention and advise for my z car. and zed i have done nothing internally to block. its a stock l28 with a p79 head and flat top pistons but i will do a compression test just to make sure. this motor ran great before i pulled it out of the car with great compression. list of modifications: cold air intake with k&n filter flame thrower coil accel 8mm wires iridium plugs electric h2o pump electric fan aluminum 3 core radiator fidanza 10lb lighter than stock flywheel stage 2 centerforce clutch short throw shifter all new vacuum lines and fuel lines 6-2-1 header with true twice pipes from the header collector kyb gas shocks vogtland lowering springs 1.25 inch sway bars front and rear strut tower bars front and rear slotted and drilled front rotors new factory front calipers stainless braided brake lines all four corners stainless braided clutch line 240z front and rear bumpers ( rear not installed yet because its a pain in the arse to fab brackets) new badges ( not installed yet) jdm fender mirrors ( not installed yet) new seat skins and foam new floor mats with 280z embroidered logo i know most of this is irrelevant to the issue at hand but i thought id let you know what i have done to my old baby. i will post pics as soon as figure out the major problem at hand

it has good fuel pressure during crank and run cycle dave. i dont think it has to do with the distributor because it runs great once it fires ksrosser it has a brand new fuel filter and all new gas lines siteunseen. it does the same thing when warm and cold captain obvious. im going to try checking the oil pressure sending unit because it was doing something weird when i first got it back together and tried cranking it for the first time. with the ignition on i could hear the fuel pump running but when i connected the oil sending unit in it would shut off. but it seemed to fix itself. maybe something is ****ocked there. i really do not want to swallow my pride and take it to a shop for something that is probably a loose connection. like i said the car runs great but only with a small shot of ether. all your advise is much appreciated guys and i will take all i can get. thanks

Hello everyone. my name is crash and i am having an issue with my z. i recently did a ton of work to my car and now it will not start without a shot of ether down the hole. it starts, runs and idles perfectly with a shot of ether but it just cranks and cranks without. it is a factory fuel injected 1978 280z 2+2 with lots of aftermarket external parts. nothing internal has been changed. it has great fuel pressure and amazing spark but will not start without a shot of juice. i have thoroughly cleaned all the injectors and the cold start valve ensuring great flow. i replace all the fuel lines and vacuum hoses. i have troubleshot everything i can think of and im sure its something stupid that i missed. please help!!!!!