AlbatrossCafe

Nice! yeah, I did my tie rod and swaybars with wheels on the ground. Otherwise I had no chance

These were a PITA to get lined up, for sure, but you should NOT have to compress the strut in order to get this to work. Bend your steering knuckle towards the car. It looks the ball joint and the knuckle are facing outwards. That ball joint should be adjusted so it as closely matches the angle of the bottom of the spindle as possible. Once I got it "close" I used a fat screwdriver that I fit through both of the mounting holes (on on side) that you are talking about and pried that around to try to line it up enough the other side enough to get the bolt in. EDIT: Now that I think about it, I think I did use a jack under the control arm or something to get it to line up a little easier. But I didn't let the car drop on its own weight. I think I just gave it a couple of pumps under the arm to kind of get it into position. It didn't take much with that method.

Link?

I have a 1978 280z fan shroud, clutch and fan that I could get rid of after going to electric. PM me if anyone is interested.

Do you have a link or something to what you are talking about? I am curious

Hey... where are your big fat 280z bumpers? Might have saved ya ?

I tried to change my fluid but couldn't get the fill plug off for the life of me. Good thing I checked that before the drain... I'm sure my fluid is 10 years old.

haha I love that name! "Garage Mahal". This is exactly what I want. But definitely needs an in-ground vehicle lift!

So awesome. I was just there a few weekends ago, so it is really cool when I recognize some of the exact spots that those pictures were taken. Now I'm gonna have to take mine on the same trip!

I'm not really sure how that voltmeter light works either. For me, it seems to come on and honk at you once voltage goes really high? Here is a video of my '78 280z with L28ET swap after the internal regulator on my alternator blew out and the ground coming off the alternator was fried into pieces:

Figured I would try here before going to fleaBay. I got a new radiator and am using electric fans, so I don't need these anymore. They were working great on my 1978 280z before I took them off. One of the fan blades (2 o'clock one in the picture) is clipped off at the end but I noticed no difference in performance. What do you guys thinks? $100 + shipping takes it all?

I bought a pair of these before realizing my new control arms come with a massive bolt instead of needing spindle pins. It is this kit: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4240ki BUT, it is missing 2 pieces of hardware: (1) 14-1410 8mm Lock Washer (for Lock Bolt) (1) 23-4242 Spindle Pin Nut Shouldn't be too hard to find these at a local hardware store. Also to clarify, I am only selling one spindle pin! $40 shipped in continental US!

Hmm.... well isn't this suspicious? lol ? I believe this is the ground connection coming off the alternator? Not only was the wire severed, but the insulation was cooked off and pretty crispy! Looks like I have some good leads to go on now. This weekend I'll finally be able to get into it with a meter.

Here are the problems I have noticed since I this arc: Tachometer dances all over the place when I push in the clutch (before it was very smooth/accurate) Speedo bounces a bit too Parking "Brake" indicator always illuminated Door chime sounding at double its normal speed Coolant temp pegged at max (250 degrees) while driving, but goes back to center after ~15 seconds of idling? Oil pressure pegged at max while driving, but goes back to center after ~15 seconds of idling? Voltage indicator at 16+ while driving with "Charge Light" always on Headlights are so dim they are unusable (even with Voltage at 16+) Do you guys think that my ECU or some relays or something could have been affected as well? Not sure where a lot of these signals (speedo, tach, temp) come from or whether or not they go through ECU. Or are all these a byproduct of bad alternator and/or over-voltage? Luckily I have a new 125A alternator from ZSpecialties and MegaSquirt 2 on the way. I hope that solves these issues.

FYI I just emailed zspecialties and he is still making these. I'm going to pick it up next week since I am local to him. What I would like to know is what does the charge light actually do? Does it indicate overcharging or something?