Rio24

Definitely no hole in booster. Rear brake are adjusted properly.

I don't think so because I've replaced the rubber hoses at each wheel. But I will make sure.

Sorry Steve, yes I did. They are installed correctly. Bleeders up

Hey guys, the reaction disk was in place. I tested the booster and check valve and bench bled the MC while I had it out. Pressure bled system and still same thing. I'm thinking I'm going to gravity bleed at every fitting of system this weekend. It has to be air in system! Right!? I Really appreciate your suggestions, thanks

Thanks guys! I will check for the reaction disk tomorrow.

Hi Steve I have. And it all leads to air in system. I've bled it multiple times and different techniques. Stumped!

Is that what you call helping? More like wasting time. Glad I could help with your boredom sir.

I'm sorry but I thought the title of my post explains my symptom Zed head. Everything has been replaced except lines and booster.

I don't understand your point? I'm here for help Zed. You wanted details, I gave them to you. What about the bleed screws? They are all working properly. I bled the system a few times. Pressure, vacuum and manually bled just today.

OK Zed head. Just giving you details. Master has been replaced

The car has been sitting for 10+ years.

That's exactly what is means. Doesn't really drop to the floor on its own. Just no resistance when pressing down. Pedal does return to the top. I bought the car with a seized engine and got that going . Next was the brake system need attention. I replaced calipers pads rotors and drums ,wheel cylinders ,shoes and hardware. Not sure what else you need. Thanks for your time zed head

Hello Guys, 72 240Z. I'm almost ready to drive the car I bought last year, but I can't get a brake pedal when engine running. It feels pretty firm with engine off. I have replaced everything except booster and lines. I have bleed multiple times, so I'm sure of no air in system. In my experience when a booster is bad the pedal will be harder when car started. Any idea?

Good evening guys, So I'm back for more help. It's almost time to drive my 240z for the first time, but the clutch is stuck to the flywheel. You might remember me. I'm the guy who bought the 72 with a seized engine(that I got unstuck). I'm here because the engine has a really hard time running when engine cold. It's about 60 degrees in Chicago now . So it will start and revs to about 2500 for 2 seconds and shut off, try again and again the same thing. Over and over and over again for about 5 minutes. I'm messing with the throttle the whole time. After a few minutes of that , it runs and idle great! Other that a slight bog when I blip off idle. Sorry for the long story, just want to give some background. Thanks in advance guys

Yeah sure! Bearings too ?

OK....no found leaks. I fixed the electrical problem(bad voltage reg) and notice the engine oil was fuel saturated from me trying to start the engine for 3 days until I realized carbs were so far out of sync. I changes oil and filter and voltage reg, and now it's idling around 1000. It actually surges from 700 - 1100 it's getting better! I messed with idle mix screws and that's best I can get it. Timing is at about 15. Idle jets is f9 .45 and main jets f11 115. It's getting there. I really appreciate your help!!

It's finally a nice day in Chicago, so I can't wait to get in the garage. Thanks again I'll get back to ya

No, thank you for talking it out with me and taking the time. I have disconnected the push rods, they are completely closed. I'm confused how the engine still runs with plates closed. Is there a seperate opening for idle circuit? Excuse my ignorance

Timing is set to 15 , all push rod even and idle set screws are all the way out(no contact with linkage) idle still high. Mixture screws are even at 3/4 a turn. Stock cam. I think... air flow are as even as I can get #1 carb vary in flow, 5 on cylinder #1 and 7 cylinder # 2 Cylinder 3 and 4 carb is even at 5 Last carb is same as the first one. I thought different flow was because of pcv on #2 intake runner and brake booster fitting on #6 runner. All carbs are the same as picture below

Thanks for the help, I checked and adjusted valves but when the engine was cold. The linkage is all new and equal length. They are Dcoe 40. On the top they each read Dcoe 40 18 and 9m

First off i want to thank everyone that has helped me with my project 240. So it starts!! Now trying to tune and sync the carbs. Having trouble with a super high idle aroung 1300rpm with timing set advanced around 12 degrees, any lower and the car diesels and backfires. the engine revs smooth unless you blip the throttle , in which case it bogs for a sec and climbs. i have not driven it yet(still need work on suspension and brakes). any other guys with webers have any input on this? as far as timing? what dizzy to go with? also, the lights flickers and ammeter goes nuts in car. does not happen all the time, it does smooth out and when it goes crazy, there is a slight squealing noise in engine bay. All and any input is greatly appreciated

thanks you guys!

Does anybody know the correct tread pitch and size for brake booster vacuum fitting on cannon intake? It's gotta be something weird because I've tried all sizes and threads.

OK thanks now I have to find some place that repair gas tanks near Chicago.

Looking for a gas tank. My tank is leaking for the neck and at the seam. Any body no of where I can't get one fir a reasonable price? Any one know of other gas tanks that will work on a 72 240?