Jimmyb

Since we know have tried almost every pin from the ECU connector I really hope there's not the ones who are left that has caused this. The battery that was in the car had been there since -93 and was exploded etc. could that cause this? If someone tried to start the car with a broken battery? And no, it wasn't me, a bought a brand new battery the first thing I did. I'm looking for a ECU as we speak, I know of a guy from Poland who deals with Datsun and Datsun parts that might have one for my car. Oh my.. Haha, did they say why I shouldn't try a earlier ECU? Nothing seemed to go crazy so let's hope it didn't. What does the P-Part stands for? 22611 matches but not the latter.

I will replay to tips and questions later tonight, just have to post this images. So this is the ECU inside. Am I wrong or is the D251 and the one next to it burned. Also the ZD740 looks pretty bad. Are this ECU shut? And how can this happen?

1. The noid light was put into the injector connector because it should blink while I crank the engine right? It didn't. 2. We have measured battery voltage after after after all fusible links, and they are OK. 3. We recently tried grounding each injector with a wire from battery - to respective pin on the ECU wiring connector and all injectors opened. (For the first time while in the car i believe) 4. We also applied battery voltage to pin #13 and the fuel pump started. That's the first time the fuel pump started without direct voltage from a separate battery . That tells me that the wiring + relays for the EFI and Fuel pump are OK? Am I wrong? feels to me like we have ruled out the basics and there has to be the ECU or a grounding problem, if there's a grounding problem then it's NOT pin #18 or any of the pins to the injectors of the ECU. So, on todays agenda. Test the ignition switch. First with the noid light and if there's no power at the coil with the key at Run/On, and at Start, then try replacing the switch with a switch button and a push button. But if it is the ignition switch, should'nt the car be able to fire up - then die without starter fluid? The EFI relay clicks when I turn the ignition on but the injectors won't fire when cranking the engine, as meantioned earlier they do fire when grounding respective pin from the ECU connector. Could this still have anything to do with the ignition switch? The switch do go through the EFI relay so maybe, but it still clicks. Well I'm just gonna try it out. I found this image to use when connecting a button + a push button, seems about right yeah? Thanks guys, you're awesome!

Hm.. But it only starts with starter fluid, then dies. Its not starting by its own machine, the injector doesent get power and with that dont fire. With this info, could it still be the ignition switch? Should i try "hot wire" the car? With a switch button and a start button? Can you send me the link to the thread please?

We've done a continuity test and measured resistence between coil negative and pin #18 (0,1 ohm) AND we also applied signal with a cable fault locater/circuit tracer detector and resived the signal at pin #18, and yes it is the lonely cable beside the wiring connector. Also finally got a nod light and just as we figured, the injectors don't get any power. The nod light works but not when put into the injector connector. As far as the fuel pressure goes, there is a return line so how much pressure can it be? We have a good flow coming from the return line rail. The fuel pump have no voltage on the connector so the pump is connected directly to a battery. I dont think its loosing spark but no its not getting enough fuel because the injector wont open. But it should still run on starter fluid even if the injector dont work right? Its only in the air and doesent the fluid burn up straight away?

Hi, so it was a late one last night again and the car still won't start. Me and my friend followed the Engine Fuel and Emissions chapter of the FSM. The first thing we tried were the #18 pin to the negative post on the coil as Zed Head recocmended and that path is clean and useful.. So I colored that pin with a pink marker, and kept on going. As you can see on the img that I uploaded: 1. Engine earth is great. 2. Throttle valve switch works 3. The EFI relay works (the green relay under the plastic cover next to the battery) 4. Air flow meter seems to work So I really don't get it. Today I think I might leave the rails with injectors hanging loose just to confirm with my eyes that the injectors wont fire, now I'm desperate. I'm almost 100% sure that they don't but I have to see it. After ofcourse I try with a lamp connected to the injector clips, if the lamp wont work then ofcourse the injector hemselfs wont fire. Any other tips? Thanks, / Jimmy Ps. I tried with another ECU last night, didn't do any good. This was a ECU from a -78 so the ground from ECU to the coil are on the #1 pin ( I think), so I cant exclude that there might be something wrong with my ECU just yet. Also my ECU connector is wierd, there's a cable that goes from yellow to blue, the same blue as the cable that later goes to the negative post on the coil, but that path is wotking so.. And there's a cable tie there so someone has probebly messed with this before. In Sweden a cable tie is called "Kattstrypare" wich directly translated means "Cat strangler", that won't help anyone out at all, but I thought I let you know anyway.

Yes, If Ether is starter fluid then yes. And yes, it does concern me..

I believe you. I'm sorry, I think I missunderstood you earlier when you mentioned the negative post of the coil. Maybe I read it to fast or maybe my English is'nt as good, I have a friend who knows a bit about electrics and who do knows how to work a multimeter properly that will help med out this weekend. I will suggest we do just as you say here, check the negative and follow the FSM. I'll keep you updated, thank you very much!

Well that's.. I don't know, when I didn't thought I could be any more confused. But then I could be the ECU that's the cause of why it's not starting? The ECU doesen't ground one of the pins properly? Are the ECU itself grounded through something? Like the chassi? I might know of a guy that's restoring a 280z , not zx, with injection, maybe I can test his ECU if it's the same as mine. To answer where I'm at: - The car cranks - I got spark, a good spark! - I got fuel coming in and out of the rails (JSM, there are alligator clips on the wires to the pump diretcly from a battery as I'm not so sure 'bout the fuel pump relay) - I've sprayed starting fluid over all the vacuum lines I could find while my girlfriend was cranking the engine and it did not react, so no mayor leaks there. I mean, in my book this is a recipe for a working car, but no.. - The car fires up with starter fluid BUT it doesen't run, it immediately dies after firing. I can't make ut run if I keep spraying either. No compression? I'm doing a comp test hopefully this weekend. - The injectors works, I've cleaned these in a ultrasonic wash and inside them with break cleaner and help from a battery + starter button to simulate the pulse until there was a beautiful mist coming out. So here's my list of suspects and wonderments: - The ECU, can I test this thing somehow? I know I can test the ECU connector to see if the cars wiring works but this is something I'm looking for help to do as my electrical skills are close to zero. But can I test the actual ECU? - The injectors won't fire when they are in the car, I mean even with only 3 volts I could totally feel when the injectors were firing, but not now, not while they are back in the car. - The metal relay (EFI relay I believe?)behind the plastic cover next to the battery. This relay seems to work with cables diretcly from the battery, it's clicking. But not when It's back in the car, totally silent when cranking. So this is why I'm so hung up on the ECU, as the injectors do work, the EFI relay do work, but only with direct power from the battery and none of them are working when they are where they should be. And again, thank you gous for taking a interest! Ps. I've read somehwhere that the tachometer has to be connected because they are a part of helping the ECU control the injectors, is this real or am I being fooled? Sounds wierd to me, but than again I'm grasping here. I believe the tachometer is working properly but I'm giving this a look tonight after work. Ds.

No it doesen't.. The ignition lock is out because i don't have the ignition key, the lock has probably been replaced at some point. The switch that was on the back of the lock is still there as you can see on a img that I uploaded earlier, I just removed the lock så i could turn the ignition. So i can turn the switch with anything that goes in. Oh, so the security is just the steering lock and nothing like a programmed key or anything? In that case i should be in the clear as the locks current placement are on top of the roof But I do believe that the problem is that both pins in the injector connector has voltage, one of them should be ground. The question is why, I've asked around on a local car forum for someone who knows cars eletric that could pay me a visit, still no luck but I'm keeping you guys updated. Hopefully a solution will come my way soon and I can write down exacly what was wrong and then maybe this thread can help some other guy one day.

That's awesome, cool cars. I hope you find the solution! And if you do please let me know, if I'm lucky your solution could also be mine

Hi! So. I’ve cleaned all of the fusible links etc. and now I do have voltage to the injectors, the wierd thing is that I got voltage on both pins on each injector connector. If I’m reading the manual right there should be constant voltage on one of them and then the ECU will ground the other one when I crank the engine, but I could be mistaken? If I disconnect the ECU then I got voltage on one out of two pins on each injector connector, just like I believe it’s supposed to be. Are the ECU broken? Does anyone who knows cars electrics maybe explain this? About the theft prevention, there’s this black thing where the key goes(attached img). Could this really be why the car won’t start? Feels a bit high tech for 1982.. Edit: I got voltage all the time, nothing changes if the ignition is on or off.

To sum up tonights efford to get the car running 1. The green relay seems to work, nice clicking sound and feeling. That's the fuel pump relay right? 2. The ugly metal one - nothing. So I tried using a battery and some cables and yes, it clicks just fine. So I cleaned everything up and still nothing, took a cable from minus on the battery togheter with the ground pin on the relay and nothing. That tells me it should be somewhere between the ECU and the relay right? Couse as far as I can see on the xenon link that JSM posted there's nothing in between that could cause this exept maybe a broken wire or the ECU itself? 3. The fuel pump still wont start by itself (could be a broken wire though, because the relay seems to work), or the ECU again?). One thing I forgot to mention was that I had to hot wire the car. I got the keys for everything but the ignition. So either this is a very stupid question or it was a extremly stupid move to hot wire the car, but could this have something to do with wht it doesen't start? There's a black piece of plastic-isch where you put the key in but i mean common, some kind of a imobilizer in 1982? Nah, but I don't really know? Are the ignition attached to the steering collumn some kind of important grounding point? I did put a wire between the minus pole and what's left of the ignition(attached img) just in case, didn't help. So I don't know guys, I'm totally gasping for solutions here. And I want to say once again that I really do appriciete you all trying to help me! Going to London, next try will be on sunday. Have a great weekend everyone. /Jimmy

I do, I did. But when it comes to cars electric I really do suck, I mean I have to google like 3/4 of all the terms people are using! I was saying above I'm not a mechanic, I'm a web developer. I just love cars, always had and love to work on them and l'm learning by doing (and asking you guys). I've never had to dig this deep without any results and that's why I joined this forum, I need help. "The ECU is very sensitive the its signal from the coil negative post to the pin on the harness at the ECU. You need to confirm that that path is clean and useful, as was said several times above." - I haven't checked the pin on the harness at the ECU yet, I'm working my way there. The Spark is good, really should be good enough for the car to fire up. Vacuum lea yes, probably a more than one but nothing I can see, I would have to test with some starter fluid. But should'nt the car still start if there's a vacuum leak? I mean sure, it would run bad etc. but atleast start up? Nothin = no changes = no change in timing and no engine start. Btw, thank you for taking interest!

Thanks for this! I had found the fusebox but totally missed that plastic cover so that's great From what I've read on the web, the green one is the fuel pump relay right? That would make the metal one the relay for the EFI if I'm not mistaking. I will take a quick look tonight, then I'm going to London for the weekend so it might take a while for an update. Thanks guys! / Jimmy