BDJeff

I understand but that makes no sense....Wonder what else is off?

yes, exactly

I'm back and have the answer. I think we should all be fired for not seeing this. Apparently I had the lower control swivel on the wrong side of the swing arm. Doh! It should be on the bottom, not the top. I still don't know why none of us saw this, it's obvious in the first post if you look carefully. And the drawing in post number 29 appears to be wrong even though it's from the FSM. The car tracks straight now.

Awesome, thank you! Can't get much simpler than that wiring diagram

Yes, a Series II 1971 with the dealer A/C. I am looking for some documentation on it, instructions, pictures, and possibly specifications as I want to replace the York boat anchor with a Sanden rotary. Simple stuff like do I need to remove the dashboard to access the evaporator and vent controls? Just not a lot of info on it

Are there any factory instructions or diagrams of the dealer installed A/C evaporator unit? I've read most of the threads on A/C and there doesn't seem to be any reference in the FSM nor is there any photos of people removing/repairing the evaporator and fan. I did see a pretty good write up of how the controls move the flaps and valves around. I'm planning to revive my dealer installed A/C and don't know if I should rework it all or just go with a new Vintage Air unit. This is a pretty good write up but it's more than ten years old. Does the Vintage Air unit just bolt right in? It's difficult to tell. The A/C and heater controls don't seem to be well documented unless I just haven't found it. Vintage Air install

Thanks for the confirmation. I tried turning the toe adjustment one full turn out on each side but no change. Maybe I'll try a couple of more tomorrow just to see if there's any change. I'm running out of ideas.

Hmmm... not seeing them. One is smooth (left) and one has what looks like a "T2" on it. I'm assuming the R & L would be on the arm between the bolt and the joint.

OK, I think I see what you're talking about. Do I possibly have these links reversed side to side? This is the piece that the steering arm connects to (the knuckle arm?), the top that the nut tightens against "slopes" toward the outside, i.e., inside higher than the outside. The pictures in my FSM are not clear enough to see which way it slopes.

Pictures??? I put new grease in the ball joints before I put them in. They are brand new and stiff but nothing out of the ordinary.

I made a movie of my wife backing the car down the drive then driving back forward (aft to the fore? :-) ). Sure enough, the wheels clearly moved out then back in. I checked the ride height arbitrarily at the bumper and it changed from 18 3/8 to 17 5/8 or about 3/4". And it was consistent, we did it several times and got the same result. At 34M, I think the vid is too big to post unless the admins say otherwise. Is it possible that the toe-in is so severe that the car sort of rolls up on itself going forward then settles down when backed up as the wheels track outward? When I installed the new tie-rods, I had counted the number of turns taking off the old ones and matched the turns going back on with the new ones. I think it was 17 turns or so for each. And it drives pretty straight around the block so maybe the toe-in is equal? I guess I'll put the new struts back in first (pretty well proved they are not the problem) and take it in for an alignment and see what happens. I've got a local shop that's tuned in to "classic" cars so they should spot any problem right away.

I may try doing something like this tonight, just to see what the suspension components are doing. It's almost like something is sticking but I don't know what. Like I said, everything is new. Maybe it just needs to be "run in"??? Never heard of that before.....

I've replaced all the suspension bushings and rubber parts, the upper bearings and rubber isolator, and all the ball joints. Basically replaced all wear parts in the front end. And I currently have removed the sway bar and have the old (original I think) struts in the tubes. I also compared the old vs. new upper rubber isolator dimensions and they are the same.

And now I don't think it's the control arm bushings. I loosened up the big nuts on the control arms and did the back up, drive forward thing again. Backing up the wheels angled out at the bottom, going forward they moved back to angled in at the bottom. So I backed up the length of the garage and the wheels angled out again so I tightened up the bolts with the wheels angled out. So now with the bushings tight, I backed down the driveway (wheels were angled out a the end), then drove back to the shop and the wheels angled in. So I have the same action whether the bushings are tight or not. What's going on here? Forward in, backward out? This actually means the ride height is changing because the control arms are swinging up and down (?) as the wheels actually move thru an arc.

Sorry for the delay, back at it now. I had taken off the sway bar and it had zero effect. The wheels were still angled inward at the bottom. So I replaced the new Tokico struts with the original struts I removed at the beginning of this saga. And found a very strange effect. When I back out of the garage, over the slight drop at the door, the wheels are angled outward. When I drive around the block and pull in forward and park in the same position, the wheels are angled inward at the bottom (the original problem). So I drove into the garage, then backed out and stop in the same spot again. The wheels were again angled out at the bottom. I seem to have a binding problem that reacts to the last driving direction. And yes, I tightened the big lower control arm bolt when the car was fully weighted on the shop floor. First picture is parking after reversing, second picture is parking after moving forward. I'm thinking about loosing the lower control arm bolt and driving up and down the driveway a couple of times, just to see what happens.