PrOxLaMuS©

FYI - if you converted from an automatic transmission.. you need to remove the backing plate from behind the flywheel. if not.. the transmission just needs to be aligned properly and some patience =)

I got bored.. and wanted to attempt to capture the sound of my P.O.S. with the camshaft and turbo =) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLP_w8iSpfc feedback?!

non sense pilati

car is still the original "persimmon" its a redish/orange. Sblake is the freakn man.. he did a great job on polishing up those wheels! =) I had to switch over to some wider rims for my Z... i had some traction problems

well shucks! I guess I did make one visit.. prob been 2 years since ive been really active... reasoning??? im not gonna lie... im addicted to Hybridz.. and finishing up school! But good news is.. here are some new pics!! My Individual Throttle Body setup and turbo plenum

Just wanted to say i'm back!! I know no one missed me.. but hey!!

throw in your old Z calipers as a core (they dont know the difference) and you can get them for cheaper . BTW those autozone crap pads melted on my rotors after a 10 min track session. I would recommend new pads =)

http://www.extrudabody.com/Products/ITBs.html dont worry about it. $99 a piece for each throttle body

yeh I noticed.. but I figured why not share it.. similar.. so it'll give people a good idea on the process and steps required

Now my e-brake arm was fixed on the cast caliper. The 240sx caliper allows some adjustment and is removable, but the arm will be VERY close to the rear sway bars, but won't rub. I am using 1" thick MSA sway bars as an upgrade it it's a little tighter fit. More pictures, and a peak at using the STOCK e-brake setup, and a handy dandy bolt to holt it together. Yes it works. Now remember.. bleeder nipple is at its highest point. This is so the air can be bled out of the system!! Pretty huh?! I bled the crap out of the system, i was unfortunate and got alot of the air in the system as alot of my threads can attest to. I am not using a different proportioning valve, but it has a very nice balance. I'm happy. But don't give up! I should prob take pics of the wheels and the rear brakes since it looks so damn good. . Anyway.. questions?!

My conversion consisted of: - 280zx (1982) 10.25" rotors (don't use the 84 300zx 11.4" rotors unless you have the modern-motorsports or custom adapter) ($45) - Nissan 200sx calipers (similar to 240sx or 2nd generation Maxima calipers) (FREE) - Modified Nissan Maxima rear adapters. (4 bolt design, but I cut off the corner and 4th bolt hole to allow easy access so I dont have to remove the stub axle) ($80) - Total - ($125) =) First Here is a picture of the Z's rear drum brakes on my 1978 280z. Pretty aint it? After tapping on the rear with a rubber mallet, the front drum cover pops right off and behold the glory if dirty drum brakes. Take a sawzaw or a 4" cut off disc and cut away on the rear backing plate for the drums. Major PIA, and you have to cut it in 2 diff places, or the plate will not come off. Yes, your sawzaw or cut off disc will not get to the bottom, so I tried to cut down the the bolt holes, and I used a BIG pair of pliars and wiggled it around for a while untill the metal became fatigued enough to break. (You dont have to do this if you remove the stub axle which is a major PIA) Yay it came off.. (2 hrs later SOB) This is my caliper choice. I got them from a friend for free, I later found out the are from a 200sx. (very very similar to the 240sx and 2nd generation Maxima calipers) I LOVE these because I was able to use the STOCK rubber lines! score! NOW one important note which isnt found typically on write-ups. "L" normally means "drivers side" and "R" means passenger side. Well on a Z with a different geometry due to the bracket, you must SWITCH the sides around. I know annoying huh?! Trust me I found out the right way

if the engine runs without the fuel injector connectors attached... you have leaky fuel injectors.. to fuel pressure in the system is causing a leak and allows the engine to run. and yes the engine can run on ONE cylinder

I have a complete turbo motor for sale for $350.. its in the Hybridz Classifieds.. pics of the engine on www.putfile.com/proxlamus

Turbo'd car = 3.7 or 3.54 Naturally Aspirated car (tripples or duals or FI) = 3.7 3.9 and 4.11 (hauls butt) if you want low RPMS on the highway and cruising.. still with a 3.7

haha i talk to him almost everyday.. he is NOT selling his car