PrOxLaMuS©

e-mail sent.. from denver co whoo!

does it come with speakers? or just the box?

don't get twice pipes.. unless you want a loud.. open exhuast race car sound.. yeh

Looking for extra power? Ever heard of Race Gas?!! "Race Gas" is just really really high octane fuel, which burns more efficiently, and slower to provide addition power, and a smoother running engine. But RACE gas is EXPENSIVE, sometimes $7.00 a gallon! Why not aviation fuel? Airports sell 100 LL everywhere and it's blue! Damn cheap too! Airports sell the following... 80/87 RED 100LL BLUE 100/130 GREEN Jet YELLOW (DO NOT USE!) Karocine (spelling?) Per gallons from $2.75-$3.75 Now, anyone can go to an airport and BRING YOUR OWN CONTAINER and buy some gas and fill it up. It is illegal to run "race gas" or high octane gas in vehicles running on the street, only for race and track. Now there are 2 diff. kinds of basic automotive fuels, aside from jet fuel, diesal, etc. Leaded and Unleaded. What's the difference? Is it safe to use? ------------------------------ "The Unites States and most other countries switched from leaded to unleaded fuel years ago. The lead additive, tetraethyllead, retarded "preignition" in gasoline engines. Preignition causes engines to run rough, and to not shut off when the key is turned off. The suppression of preignition is measured by the gasoline's "octane rating". A good high-octane gasoline allows a standard engine to run smoothly. Leaded gasoline also protected some older car engines from wearing down by covering soft engine parts with lead-containing material. Facts: * Lead in fuel serves as a lubricant, raises the octane rating and serves as a cushion for the valve/seat interface. * Most STC's, e.g. Peterson, for use of auto gas (mogas) in a certificated engine exclude the use of auto gas during the run-in and break-in process. Discussion: Aircraft piston engine valve seats, especially the exhaust, operate at much higher temperatures than automotive, motorcycle or other altitude challenged motors. Elevated temperatures present three challenges to the design requirements for exhaust valve seats, 1) the oxidation resistance of the material must stand up to the harsh environment created by exhaust gases, 2) the coefficient of expansion for the material must be close enough to aluminum so that the seat does not fall out, and 3) the material must resist micro welding to the valve face when the valve closes on the seat. These three requirements severely limit the number of candidate materials from which to choose. A common characteristic of all of the candidates, however, is that they have a high nickel content, a material that forms a spongy oxide on the surface at elevated temperatures. In the early days of air-cooled aircraft engine design, it was discovered that the spongy oxide absorbs lead that is left behind from the combustion of leaded fuel. The oxide matrix filled with lead forms a layer that not only cushions the valve face when it closes on the seat but also serves as a high temperature lubricant so the seat and valve face do not weld together. When the nickel oxide layer is not filled with lead, premature wear of the seat is a high probability. It is extremely important to have lead present in the combustion chamber during the initial hours of operation if the design life of the cylinder is to be realized. This is especially true for higher compression ratio or turbocharged engines. Once the lead/oxide layer has been created during run-in and break-in, it will maintain itself reasonably well even if auto gas is burned for several fill-ups. Based on experience, ECi strongly recommends the use of leaded fuel at least every few tanks so that the lead/oxide layer is maintained. The higher the compression ratio, the more important the use of leaded fuel becomes. On the other hand, lower compression engines are plagued by lead compound build-ups in the valve guides that can lead to valve sticking. The 80-87 fuel these engines were designed to use is not universally available, and some of the available 80-87 fuel has zero lead content. The original version of this fuel had up to .5 ml/gal of tetraethyl lead, which was just about right for these engines. The 2 ml/gal of tetraethyl lead in 100LL fuel is a real challenge for engines like the C-85, O-200 or O-235. Auto gas (mogas) has greater variables for chemistry, vapor pressure, contaminants, etc. which change with locale and season. It is not a source controlled product such as aviation gas. The adverse effects for aircraft piston engines that can be attributed to auto gas are well documented by gasoline companies and ECi as well as the engine manufacturers caution all owner operators to use auto gas only with full knowledge of the problems, appropriate care and consideration of possible limits to warranty. Anyway besides a bunch of facts from various sources..... it is OK to use on cars with no-cat's... but it must be used SAFELY and without harm. I have no responsibility for the actions or consequences resulting in using leaded fuel. But i figured maybe people would want to know a cheaper alternative, and the basics of what type of fuel can a vehicle run.

thanks man!

yes it's a T3 turbo, and you can find pics at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=7931806412&rd=1

I want I want!

Nice pictures! Thanks! Sounds like it was a blast!

135 MPH all stock.. with a 3 speed AUTOMATIC!

This located in Boulder CO? I wouldn't mind checking it out.... can you send me some pics? My e-mail is (found in my profile)

I have been extremely interested in a turbo conversion for my 1978 280Z. I have been searching around for a few years now on this site... and I understand it's better to just swap in a 280ZXT engine into my car.. but my engine is running VERY strong and has only 100,000 miles on it. I would trust my engine ALOT more than a junkyard one, and i figured would be cheaper. But I am gathering a list of stuff that I need: ( i just need help to see if I miss anything) Turbo Exhuast Manifold Turbocharger and Wastegate Oil Lines Vacuum thinngy (what is the vacuum thing I need? what is it called?) Turbo Injectors Intercooler Intercooler Piping Downpipe Turbo AFM 60mm TB Now I understand I will have to tap into my stock oil pan, or get a turbo oil pan. I hope to use a Z31 ECU or just go for MegaSquirt or SDS. Do I need another oil pump to pump the oil to the turbo? Am I missing anything else?

the 4-speed and 5-speed trannies are nearly identical from 1970-1978 and when the new 280ZX's came out they had different gear ratios... so technically the 5-speed manual in early Z cars have the EXACT same first for gears as the 4-speed. The only difference is the over-drive 5th gear which is more than the 1:1 in 4th gear. So swap in a later 5-speed from a 280ZX... and get a Borg Warner 5-speed from the 280ZX TURBO's. Also... I would look into a different differential instead of the transmission. Like a 4.11 would be perfect for drifting since it's relatively at low speeds.. and HIGH RPM's... and the 4.11 will make the car a rocket..... but driving on the highway.. your RPM's will be a bit high and will reduce your overall top speed. If you keep your 3.6? differential.. overall top speed is higher and acceleration is slower. Look into the 3.7 LSD differetials from the 300ZX Turbo's too

I know 240K tail-lights should stay on a 240K... but that looks good on that Celica.. just remove the wing and rear quarter skirts

ahh had em almost swapped around

Let me get this right..... Toe-In ( / \ ) improves turning and braking and acceleration Toe-Out ( \ / ) improves stability but acceleration and braking is a bit skiddish and turning is a tad more difiicult

I bought a '78 280Z on my 17th birthday.. I'm 18 now.. but addicted to Z cars...

correct... i recently replaced mine.. because mine did the same thing... but caught on fire too! Yeh the one hangin down is the turn signal flasher... the other flasher... for the hazards is way up above the hood latch puller thing I would recommend going to your local JY or eBay and get a new turn signal assembly.. for about $11 typically.... I got mine from a junkyard for $3 and works better than my original.

Bragger... good to see you here too man! PS - link your pics directly to your post... it'll make people smile more

I know that's why I put leather in quotes... "leather" or the simulated leather.... the covering is Vinyl... isn't that what our Z seats are made out of anyway?

Very Nice Summit Racing seats... "leather" .. anyone heard about em or tried them out? I was looking for a good set of seats.. and Summit had a very very nice set I was interested in. Anyone heard anything about em? http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=SUM%2DG1155&N=110&Ntk=KeywordSearch&Ntt=euro+seat

Very clean car.. I like

Holy crap! There's NO way you could ship it! I am here in Colorado.. ohh ohh!! If you can ship it .. please.. please... please... please... please let me know man! I'll easily give you more $$ for the efforts of packing it.. and shipping and everything! Let me know please please please please!!! :laugh:

won't bending it shrink the diameter.. restricting air flow?? and killing power?

holy crap!! That is a very very very very NICE ride! If I had money I would be all over it. Mad props though.. I LOVE IT

alright.. well I went back down and pushed and moved and shoved my way around. The reason why it was soo close to my tires and it was sitting too low was because the IDIOTS at Midas.... Didn't tighten the bolts all the way.. and the ones they did tighten, they were at horrible angles. Everything is fixed now... still a bit low.. but no tire rubbing... no vibrating... not as much scraping... Overall.... I give the sound a 9 out of 10 (very loud, but sometimes annoying) Install ease ... 5 out of 10 (too much adjustment and bad fit no matter what) Powergains .... 7 out of 10(felt a good power gain not as much as expected) NOTE : This is the Twice Pipes on my 280Z ... the install and fit and power will be different for a 240Z without a doubt.. since the setup was designed for a 240Z not a 280z