PrOxLaMuS©

FYI - if you converted from an automatic transmission.. you need to remove the backing plate from behind the flywheel. if not.. the transmission just needs to be aligned properly and some patience =)

I got bored.. and wanted to attempt to capture the sound of my P.O.S. with the camshaft and turbo =) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLP_w8iSpfc feedback?!

non sense pilati

car is still the original "persimmon" its a redish/orange. Sblake is the freakn man.. he did a great job on polishing up those wheels! =) I had to switch over to some wider rims for my Z... i had some traction problems

well shucks! I guess I did make one visit.. prob been 2 years since ive been really active... reasoning??? im not gonna lie... im addicted to Hybridz.. and finishing up school! But good news is.. here are some new pics!! My Individual Throttle Body setup and turbo plenum

Just wanted to say i'm back!! I know no one missed me.. but hey!!

throw in your old Z calipers as a core (they dont know the difference) and you can get them for cheaper . BTW those autozone crap pads melted on my rotors after a 10 min track session. I would recommend new pads =)

http://www.extrudabody.com/Products/ITBs.html dont worry about it. $99 a piece for each throttle body

yeh I noticed.. but I figured why not share it.. similar.. so it'll give people a good idea on the process and steps required

Now my e-brake arm was fixed on the cast caliper. The 240sx caliper allows some adjustment and is removable, but the arm will be VERY close to the rear sway bars, but won't rub. I am using 1" thick MSA sway bars as an upgrade it it's a little tighter fit. More pictures, and a peak at using the STOCK e-brake setup, and a handy dandy bolt to holt it together. Yes it works. Now remember.. bleeder nipple is at its highest point. This is so the air can be bled out of the system!! Pretty huh?! I bled the crap out of the system, i was unfortunate and got alot of the air in the system as alot of my threads can attest to. I am not using a different proportioning valve, but it has a very nice balance. I'm happy. But don't give up! I should prob take pics of the wheels and the rear brakes since it looks so damn good. . Anyway.. questions?!

My conversion consisted of: - 280zx (1982) 10.25" rotors (don't use the 84 300zx 11.4" rotors unless you have the modern-motorsports or custom adapter) ($45) - Nissan 200sx calipers (similar to 240sx or 2nd generation Maxima calipers) (FREE) - Modified Nissan Maxima rear adapters. (4 bolt design, but I cut off the corner and 4th bolt hole to allow easy access so I dont have to remove the stub axle) ($80) - Total - ($125) =) First Here is a picture of the Z's rear drum brakes on my 1978 280z. Pretty aint it? After tapping on the rear with a rubber mallet, the front drum cover pops right off and behold the glory if dirty drum brakes. Take a sawzaw or a 4" cut off disc and cut away on the rear backing plate for the drums. Major PIA, and you have to cut it in 2 diff places, or the plate will not come off. Yes, your sawzaw or cut off disc will not get to the bottom, so I tried to cut down the the bolt holes, and I used a BIG pair of pliars and wiggled it around for a while untill the metal became fatigued enough to break. (You dont have to do this if you remove the stub axle which is a major PIA) Yay it came off.. (2 hrs later SOB) This is my caliper choice. I got them from a friend for free, I later found out the are from a 200sx. (very very similar to the 240sx and 2nd generation Maxima calipers) I LOVE these because I was able to use the STOCK rubber lines! score! NOW one important note which isnt found typically on write-ups. "L" normally means "drivers side" and "R" means passenger side. Well on a Z with a different geometry due to the bracket, you must SWITCH the sides around. I know annoying huh?! Trust me I found out the right way

if the engine runs without the fuel injector connectors attached... you have leaky fuel injectors.. to fuel pressure in the system is causing a leak and allows the engine to run. and yes the engine can run on ONE cylinder

I have a complete turbo motor for sale for $350.. its in the Hybridz Classifieds.. pics of the engine on www.putfile.com/proxlamus

Turbo'd car = 3.7 or 3.54 Naturally Aspirated car (tripples or duals or FI) = 3.7 3.9 and 4.11 (hauls butt) if you want low RPMS on the highway and cruising.. still with a 3.7

haha i talk to him almost everyday.. he is NOT selling his car

stunning car!

the next pictures and descriptions are thanks to cygnusx1 over on HYBRIDZ THANKS Cygnusx1 !!

Alrighty... I went ahead and purchased the parts needed for the solid lifter conversion. I purchased the time-sert inserts.. and a spare P90 and I used the solid lifters. I soon found out.. after starting the engine up... that it sounded like a freakn diesal.. and yes everything was adjusted properly to spec.. hot and cold. Well here is one thing NO one ever mentioned about the solid lifter conversion. The hydraulic camshaft has a different shaped cam lobe.. and is designed to smoothly ramp up on the hydraulic lifters. When you use the solid lifters on the hydraulic camshaft.. the hydraulic camshaft "slaps" the rocker arm.. which creates noise and wearing of the rocker arms and camshaft lobe.. maybe more. (Thanks BRAAP for the info) This means you MUST use the solid lifters as well as the solid camshaft! MUST!!! But here are the pictures of the solid lifter conversion.. which is now deemed a complete and total waste UNLESS you convert to a solid camshaft.. This is a picture of a P90 SOLID head.. Hydraulic lifter on the left.. Solid on the right with the insert This is a picture of the HYDRAULIC P90a head.. notice the countersink in the lifter threading? This is why you need the insert.. in addition to the diff diameter in the lifters. I went ahead and grabbed my old hydraulic lifters.. and bought 4 little plastic tubs from Home Depot for $3.00. -1 tub was the disassembly tub and i drained all the oil in there -1 tub was filled with Toulene and i washed the parts for a few minutes -1 tub was also filled with Toulene but was the "clean" tub to remove any excess oil/gunk and was free from contaminants. -1 tub was full of Automatic transmission fluid I then assembled the hydraulic lifter under the ATF since it is a detergant, but is still able to lubricate the lifter so I dont have a dry start. (one note.. when you full the lifter up with oil, and drop the spring in, you can not push in the piston with the ball and spring built in. I used a small screwdriver to push the ball down onto the spring, which allowed the ATF to flow through the piston which allows the lifter pivot thing to slide down all the way) I started the car up.. it ticked for a few minutes and then stopped. Overall this was not the way I had hopped.. but I was able to fix the ticking problem and I learned that you CAN NOT simply switch the lifters. for more information on how to dis-mantle and assemble the hydraulic lifters, please check out this link http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115760

http://www.efihardware.com/efi_throttle.html

it has.. I have it in my posession now =)

6-7 psi is stock.. can go up to 10psi anything after 10psi will require an intercooler and bump up the fuel pressure I ran 18psi on the stock T3 turbo and proper fuel managment

hurmm ..

Me and buddy were goofin around today... he is a student at the Art Institute for photography so meh.. why not let me know what ya think and advice on the shots, and ofcourse the Z! Props to Mr. Ashton Hansen

um.. the Sport Max wheels 15x8's weighed LESS than my 14" iron cross wheels.. they are definatly NOT 20 pounds..

a T-shape?! um.. your avatar is awfully hard to see... try Putfile.com or Photobucket or somethin or use the Classiczcar.com gallery