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yeh you would be surprised with the stuff ya sell on eBay.. i have made over $150 profit on something last week

Pallnet from Zcar.com sells the rails for about $125 dollars... but he occasionally puts them on eBay.. I got mine for $80 hehe... and the TB spacer was $35.. and the 60mm TB was $60 .. it's getting expensive

Well I got my P.Allnet 11mm o-ring finned fuel rail in the mail today!! WHoo hoo!! I decided to put in my Toyota Supra TURBO 440cc fuel injectors.. hehe damn it looks good. I also have my 240SX 60mm TB .. with P.Allnet's custom throttle body spacer kit and bolts!! Whoo hoo!! What's gonna control those 440cc injectors? I am almost 100% certain that Apexi S-AFC will work out correctly this time.. hehe Here's my turbo manifold and T3 watercooled turbo from a Z31 turbo! and my Izuzu large NPR front mount intercooler!!! oh and my DSM BOV!!

you could get an "injector blower" from the 280ZX's ... so the "blower" can cool off your fuel rail and carbs! Might be worth a shot.. cheap at junkyards

hmm.. i'm very curious about this too.. what kind of fuel grade are you running? I doubt despite the "octane" they would have diff. boiling points... but very strange.. anyone know?!

very easy to do... i am converting my N/A to a turbo this May... I would recommend hitting the SEARCH button here or on Zcar.com Good luck!

well.. you could do maye these idea's... go out and buy a temperature guage.. and tap into the line.. or at least as close as you can before the fuel enters the line.. maybe you can see how hot the fuel is before it enters the carbs.. OR.. get a fuel pressure gauge... naturally as any liquid gets hotter.. it expands.. especially if it literally boils... so if the pressure is too high.. or above factory specs.. it could be the fuel pressure regulator.. or the fuel is expanding or heating up too quickly.. that's weird its acting up in March here in Colorado.. it's been soo damn cold lately.. finally cleared up today though... anyway.. let us know what happens

To answer your question.. YES they still sell leaded "race" fuel... go to the airport... any airport with a container.. and you can get 100LL or even 110LL octane.. usually BLUE in color... same stuff as automotive fuel.. just AVFUEL.. which has color added in it.. more oxygen and lead

Ummm... it's for turbo and boosted applications... BUT it's not designed for TURBO cars... The Apexi SAFC is used for tons of N/A applications, especially if you upgrade with bigger injectors... in my case, I had some 440cc fuel injectors which I was planning on bolting on, and the Apexi S-AFC would control how much fuel would be spit in the engine... so I didn't run too rich or too lean.. yes it does display RPM, Throttle Position on a graph or percent, and Air Flow data etc etc... it is really cool how it works..

this device doesnt really claim for horsepower bumps.. But it is basically a Air/Fuel ratio "knob" The Apexi S-AFC intercepts the AFM signal, and allows me to modify it to my choice.. then sends it back to the ECU... so it "tricks" the ECU by telling it it has more air than it really has, which means to add more fuel. I can tune it to +10% and it adds 10% more fuel... I think I have found out what was wrong with it.. but time to go back and re-do it all

ohh it's all disconnected and everything now.. and it's back to normal... no way I was even going to attempt to run that engine more than 2,000 with the lean spikes... so... it won't work

This is the wiring diagram I used for the Apexi S-AFC... everything ran.. um.. OK.. the sensor monitor settings showed an accurate display of the RPMS as well as the AFM voltage... power.. ground etc. NO Tach adapter needed! So it works.. but.. one problem... no matter what settings I used... i had extreme lean spikes.. and intake backfire's over 1,200 RPM. I spent a good hour tuning and adjusting the increments... adding more fuel.. decreasing etc. I went through every possible setting I could change, without much luck. I noticed that it diffenatly works... like if I chose -10% at 1,000RPM it basically takes away 10% of the fuel from the baseline fuel map. So the more i dropped it down, the closer it got to dying.. and a lower RPM. So after a weeks long research.. and a few hours in the garage.. wiring it (took 15 minutes) and trying to tune it.. not much luck... the Apexi simply doesn't like our Flap AFM.. even with the FLAP settings.. i also changed from hot wire sensor settings and that Karm. setting... No luck... SO the conlusion is... it works.. yes.. not very well.. and causes massive lean spikes at idle.. causing intake back-fires.. Could be a tuning fault from myself.. but I tell ya I went through every setting I possibly could.. so I removed the S-AFC and I am back to normal ECU.. or could of been a bad connection.. but i soldered everything on Thanks for all of your help

I bought the $99 dollar clutch kit from AutoZone last week.. and it's running great!! I Love it!!

Here's a post from Zcar.com --------------------------------------- Just want to note that I surveyed the archives and found all the hints for removal of oil pan while the engine is in the car BEFORE I attempted to do this on my '76 280Z to replace a leaky gasket. And I must report, once you know the tricks, it is a very simple process requiring no removal of crossmember or jacking of engine. Since the hints were scattered in several posts, I thought I would take you through the process with all hints in one place: 1. Jack car up on crossmember and block it there. Even better, I slid ramps under the front wheels (the car is too low to drive up them). This gave me plenty of working room, and was much safer than jack stands. 2. Drain oil. Remove dipstick. 3. Remove all pan bolts. Note that there are two different-length bolts used on the pan. The longer ones go throught the angled metal "spacers" or whatever they are on rear sides of pan. 4. Remove bottom two bolts in the tranny bellhousing. The pan will hang up on them otherwise. 5. On my car (76 280Z), there was a small "anti-torque" thing on the steering rack. It's put together with a U-clamp like you'd find on an exhaust clamp, and is there I guess to keep the rack from twisting. Anyway, mine was situated at the driver's side of the rack. It's in the way for lowering pan. It's simple to loosen it and either remove it or (as I did) simply slide it to the other end out of the way. 6. Knock pan loose with rubber mallet. After 20+ years, mine was almost 'welded' on and had to be pried loose with screwdriver, which actually bent one corner before it would bust loose. You may have to go this way, too, but try to do it only as last resort. Straightening small bends in pan rim is no big deal. 7. Loosen the two 12mm bolts on the oil pickup. They're on the driver's side about halfway down the block. Be careful not to damage the thin gasket. You don't have to actually remove this piece, but I did so to clean it up and replace the gasket. 8. Once the pan is loose, you can get a flashlight and see where your rod journals are situated. The pan will not come out unless the front journals (or more accurately, the crank counterweights in front) are rotated up into the engine. So you need to get your 27mm socket on the crank snout and turn with a big ratchet or breaker bar. (I meant to see where this was compared to TDC, but forgot.) 9. Once the frontmost counterweights are up inside engine, the pan will slide back, down and out. It's a tight fit and takes a bit of jiggling, but it will make it. 10. To install, "reverse the procedure". If you've removed the oil pickup, screw it very loosely into position BEFORE you slide the pan on. Once the pan is back in position, don't forget to tighten the oil pickup bolts before you start in on the pan bolts. I tried sticking the pan gasket on with sticky sealer, but you have to wiggle everything around so much, that it still came loose. It's okay. You can fudge it around when the pan is in position, just be patient and make sure all the screws are indeed going through the gasket. Finally, do NOT overtighten pan bolts. I think they spec out at 7ftlbs. The pan gasket I used was so thick and squishy that I had to make 3-4 passes around with a small torque wrench before they would 'hold' torque. Also note that there are two or three bolts on the passengers side under the crossmember that you'll have to do with a box end, as you can't get a socket on them. 11. Don't forget to put oil back in the engine! ;-) --------------------------------

not "slippy maybe" but only "Slippy" this is in relation to a turn.. for example... 3 Left, Over Crest, Outside, Slippy Moderate left turn.. over the crest, stay to the outside, caution slippy (slippery surface)

WoW.. i love this 5-speed... bwahahaha !! only pics i took was the new clutch and a broken wrench.. I know.. i could of done better...

PLEASE take some pics when you get them on!! I wanna buy some graphite Rewinds.. but don't know what it will look like!

BWahaha!! I am soo happy!! My parents never thought I would be able to pull this off.... and I did it!!! Yess!!! After 2 weeks of fighting with my car... after school and work everyday.. I finally got it done!! I havent had a chance to drive it yet, since its too damn loud.. and the neighboors always complain.. but whoo hoo!!!

take a pic of it with it on the car!!

Very nice!! WoW

yep.. any airport with a re-fueling station

contact Pallnet from Zcar.com or Hybridz.org He has plenty of suppliers and can make you a custom smooth or finned rail for under $130

http://flzclub.com/videos/blownZ.WMV Right click and save as please... Here's the thread for more info

MMmmm.. I personally think gunmetal looks MEAN especially on yellow but if you want a nice "cruise" look.. and for occasional shows... silver will look great. gunmetal grabs more attention

Aurora Colorado... few miles from Parker and Arapahoe road =)