AndyStep12

I just got all excited and ordered an E12-80 dizzy for my 240z. Problem is, I didn't check if it had the mount...it doesn't. Could anyone help? If you have a mount or a lock plate, I would really appreciate it. At present my 240 has no spark. It had a broken vacuum advance but ran (horribly). After messing with the points distributor I get no spark at all. So now I'm trying for an E12-80 swap. Anybody have the 280zx mounting plate or lock plate? It's the one in the right in the picture above.

This morning I routed the fuel lines around the Hugh pressure Holly pump. Now I'm all mechanical. No more flooding. Pretty anemic in power compared to having the other pump. But the mechanic tinkered with the carbs just a bit to get it running well (when not flooded) with that air fuel mixture. I'm sure I need to adjust the carbs now. It's all new to me but I'll read guides and such. I'll try to balance them and whatever else I need to do. I think the floats might be fine now. Everything I read made it sound like that field pump would push past good floats. Forgot the exact Psi but multiple times spec. Thanks for the help guys. It got me to make progress today.

Oh yeah. Stock engine. Some one in the past changed out the flat top carbs for round tops though. Which is nice.

I have what must be a fuel delivery problem. When I bought my z it had a holly red field pump that puts out a boat load of psi which fed the stock mechanical fuel pump. This combination resulted in frequent flooding of my carbs. So while it was in the ship for a new clutch the mechanic bypassed the old mechanical pump. This is ran great, cold but would flood badly and stall following warm starts. I thought over this setup and thought about how much I would prefer a ago k setup. Plus there was no inertial switch to kill fuel flow when the engine died. This morning I disconnected the power to the Holly electric pump. Then I installed a fresh mechanical pump and routed the fuel lines back to it. I compared the old mechanical pump to the new one and it seemed bad. The old pump didn't blow much air when I pushed the lever and the new one provided a nice puff. The car fired up nicely. But it drives horribly now. In 3rd gear the engine acts fuel starved (I think) and stutters, lurches, backfires with this new mechanical pump. All that said, would fully removing the electric pump help? Is it an added strain for the mechanical to suck fuel past my unpowered holly red fuel pump? Or am I looking at carb or other problems? The drivability can be great with the electric pump, why can't I get the same results with a fresh mechanical pump?

I picked it up at O’Reilly. BrakeBest Brakes Power Brake Booster BHH 53-5104 It was fairly straightforward. I left the master cylinder on and just moved it out of the way. The pillow idea is great. I used my wife’s old yoga mat to pad my spine as I laid in the floor board.

Oops. Small phone keyboard. 73 harness.

When I bought my 240z it came with a pole of new parts. For some reason I have 6 struts tubes. I’m replacing struts and springs on my 73 240z. Im not going to track it. Street driving is all I’m going to do. Maybe put down to cars and coffee. My understanding is KYBs are better, but I only have 2. Which would be better? 2 KYBs and 2 Gabriels or 4 gabriels? If it’s 2 and two, which should go up front?

I ordered a 1973 harness that’s in great shape from eBay. I’m going to work on getting the suspension sorted first as it will likely be less frustrating and more fulfilling.

The brake booster totally fixed it. Doesn’t stop like squishy death anymore. Thanks dudes.

Kirakami, how’d you get those hard lines between your master cylinder and the safety switch? Mine are stripped.

Awesome. I’ll have to pull the harness from my 1972 pats car then. My 73 has the worst harness ever.

How did that work out for you. I’m in a similar situation.

My 73 240 Z has horrible stock springs. PO jammed foam in the back and sprayed foam up front. I have a 72 parts car but wanted fresh springs. I ordered 4 Chevette front sprins pet 6558 from Car ID. I have a fresh set of strut cartridges too. The big question is how much to cut off the Chevette springs. Could anyone with experience with these let me know how much they removed? My goal is stock ride height. BTW, I know these threads typically turn into a debate about the merits of lack of merits of a Chevette spring swap. My goal is to learn what is an effective amount to cut from the springs.

Thank you. I have a 1972 parts car. I know wiring changed from year to year but probably not as much as the PO changed this. Maybe I should pull the harness from it and swap it to the 73.

Thanks guys. Ordered a brake booster from O’Reilly yesterday. Autozone couldn’t sell me the right one. Bummer, because their Black Friday deal was better.