scotta

Patton is correct. You can see the small oil outlet holes in the cams.

Jon, with that vin, your car is a 1972. Likely around April/May. Engine will have some cast numbers on the block; this will be the engine type, LHS low on the block. the head will also have a cast number, RHS. Below is the main factory combinations. But you will find heads are quite often swapped out. ENGINE. DISPLACEMENT. BLOCK CASTING CODE. HEADS L20A (JDM Fairlady Z) 2.0 litre #E30 head E30 L24 (1970 240Z) 2.4 litre # E31 (flattop pistons) E31 L24 ('71-73 240Z) 2.4 litre # P30 (flattop pistons) E88 L26 ('74 260Z) 2.6 litre # P30 (flattop pistons) E88 L28 ('75-80 280Z/ZX). 2.8 litre # N42 (dished pistons) N42, N47 L28 ('81-83 280ZX) 2.8 litre # F54 (flattop/dished pistons, siamesed cylinders) P79, P90, P90a Would love to see more pics particularly of the dash, instruments, radio and engine bay.

Jon, welcome to the forum. I am the owner of the Z @siteunseen mentioned. The forum has been a great resource for me and there are some fantastic people in the community. What is the Vin of your car? I got my car about 2 years ago as an inoperable vehicle. The previous owner (PO) had owned it for 21 years, been restoring it the entire time but had not finished it. Some of it he had experts do, some of it he did himself. Most of the heavy lifting was done; body repairs, engine rebuilt, brake cylinders / clutch cylinders replace, but much was not finished. A bit of electrical needed finishing, gauges connected, door seals, some trim work, some other work needed redoing some of as it was not great quality, plus all the maint work on a vehicle that had not even moved for 6+ years; oils, brake fluids, gas, etc. I was quite disciplined and broke up the work in phases and target timelines; Phase 1 - Running & Registered, Phase 2 - High priority, ...... + a small fun distractions list (eg, restoring steering wheel) (in case you can't tell I am ex engineer, ex project manager. Some would argue somewhat OCD ? . I did work in the auto industry for a couple of years on the tools when I was studying, with the forum, youtube , factory servcie manual, I was confident I could figure stuff out again after 30+ years off the tools Generally the 240z and the FS-L are almost identical, however a few got ya's. 99.9% of questions you have and problems you encounter will be the same as the 240z owners. A summary of some of my findings of 240z vs JDM fairlady z. Some of these are hard learnt. Electrical: there are some subtle differences. The main one I experienced is the indicators stalk - FZ-L have a push to pass button on the indicator arm. As a result the wiring is different (My PO had installed a US arm on my car and the lights would come on when the indicator way moved). Another difference is the the FZL do not have the same fusible link the 240z does. Engine and Carbs: given you do not have the original engine probably wont matter. Mine is a factor 2.0l engine with the orginal 5 speed box. The SU type carbs are smaller (38mm) compared to the 240z versions (which I think were 42mm?) also the bolt layout is different on them. The air filter box on FZL also did not have the warm air inlet. Some differences in the seat belt layout. However there were also changes across series 1 and 2 240z, and 260z that might be in your car as well. check out the thread for more details + JDM electrical diagram

Anyone have a RHD one. I'm looking for one for my 72 JDM Fairlady Z

My JDM - 1972 Fairlady Z: L20A engine, E30 head, 38mm carbs HJG38

I designed and printed replacements for the washers. Printed in TPU - oil, grease resistant & extremely flexible. it has a similar flexibility to rubber. Does not require the rollers to be removed will flex enough to get over.

If you really what to get particular the wheel chocks are also stamped with a date. There are two digits, the first representing the last digit of the year, the second the month. E.g 2C would be 1972, March. This thread has the details (including the date stamping on jacks)

I’ll take them....thanks. I’ve pm’ed you.

Kats, and others. Thanks for this info. My jack has the same birthday as your friend Shimoura San. R.I.G - “1972 September 7th “ This dates well to the approx car manufacture date of the Fairlady Z Serial number S30100698 Nice to know it is likely the original The chock is from a later donor car (I know the PO used some parts from another 1973 240z in making some repairs). 3B = 1973 March

They could potentially be laser cut. Would not take too long to create a set of files using a cad package such as Fusion360 and laser cut them. I have the skills and equipment if there is demand. Do you know what material the plastic is (there are some plastics you should not cut on a laser).

Thanks for this. I was about to do the exact same setup, retrofitting the VA controls into the stock panel. Great to know it can be done relatively easily.

Just to complete and correct the information here. I did further research and found the car is a 1972 version. The Member Kats San provided the following information.

I have one of these stickers on the back of my JDM 1972 Fairlady z. The back panel has been resprayed by the previous owner, (original colour can been seen where some of it has cracked off). . I think they cut the sticker down at the same time. Probably because it was peeling off.

We lived in Tokyo for 3 years. In Sendagaya, near Yoyogi Park. I was about 10. As a blonde headed kid I definitely stood out. Gaijin's were pretty rare those days, Tokyo was much less international back in the 70's. Great memories, really enjoyed the time. I enjoy getting back there.

whilst not a Z..... We lived in Japan in the 1970's here is a couple of photos of my mums car, I think it is a 1972 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-X (could be a 2000GT-R). Taken in 1975. It was a pretty zippy car, can remember mum flooring it a few times for fun.

Can you post an updated link to the bulbs on amazon?

Designed and I’m in the process of printing some wheel caps. Laser cut the logos in acrylic. Caps printed in TEPG filament.

usually available @ https://zcardepot.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=window+roller&cat= however showing out of stock currently - I purchased a couple about a month ago when I was rebuilding my doors / adding sound proofing.

I’ve also heard of people using thin stainless steel wire instead of the staples.

Had a clunk in the rear end on big bumps. Think I found out why! Other side was not much better.

Really happy this post and the community could help you solve the problem. That is the whole point of the forum in my view.

Attached is photos of my final cleaned up wiring. Hope this helps A couple of points; there are two types of tachometers out there. Three and four wire, they work differently. Mine is a Japanese Fairlady. Some of the wire colors are different to the us cars

I had the same problem. I found it a physical pain to get the bulb out. Not much room there.

I have uploaded the 3D model of the indicator arm knob and instructions to thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2984466 Please note, this will only work for the JDM version cars the indicators are wired differently and includes a relay to power the lights.