JMT240KGTR

No worries Matt! I should have re-phrased 'standard fitment' to mean available as an auto, thats what I meant! :classic: Yep they're good motors thats for sure, I've been travelling regularly interstate with these engines for 9 years or so, routinely check service items such as plugs, timing, carbs etc etc and they go forever, very strong as well, they don't mind towing large trailers for 2000klms at a time!:rambo: I'm getting my hands on a digi cam tomorrow, I'l post pics of my finished car once a few pics are taken. James

:classic: Hey, leave the K's alone!!:classic: I figured I'd post it here as it was engine related, same running gear anyways...:cheeky:

Thanks for the replies fellas, I've found the thermostat was no good, so this has been removed temporarily for a couple of days. Car runs better now, nice and cool although we are going through a warm spell here so it's OK for now! Went to the wreckers and sourced a Mitsubishi trans oil cooler which I'll be fitting tomorrow, along with my original 3 row non- auto type radiator and new thermostat, this will keep things cool all round. zeiss150, the 3 speed auto is standard fitment behind most L series engines including the Z and although a little slower off the line it has a final drive ratio of 1:1, same as the 4 speed manual, doesn't rev too high at all with a 3.54 diff. From a source here in Oz there was a L6 series powered Skyline back in '85 that utilised a 4 speed auto trans (not electronic, bonus!), maybe one day I can get one of these. For the time being, and maybe for a while yet, the 3spd will do, my 5 speed was wearing fast (very noisy) so a replacement was in order. James

Cooler unit...radiator? Everything is hooked up properly, don't know whats going on though! I originally had an electric fan cooling the radiator, might put this back on:cry:

Correct, that's what I have.:classic:

Gents, Converted my car to 3 speed auto over the weekend. Took it out for a drive last night and to work today and the damn thing overheats, BAD. Now I've retained the same thermostat that was used with the manual box, but I'm thinking along the lines of longer warmup times for the auto-incorrect thermostat ie too long to open. I'm using the clutch type fan in good condition (doesn't spin freely when warmed up) and the radiator is good. I've also bypassed the heater for the time being, need some new hoses for that. Engine is L28, slightly modified. Can anyone shed some light, my brain is tired!:classic: James

The rubber fuel line is fine, temporarily, not as a permanent replacement. One of the reasons why the steel fuel line is utilised under the car is the counter road dirt, grit, basically the nasties that may/can wear and cut into the rubber lines. That said, it'd have to be something pretty sharp and forceful to damage them, and if it could, I don't see the steel lines coming off any better, they'd be cut right through. I'm not sure I got the 'optimistic' part...enlighten me!:classic:

G'day Lachlan, First of all I can't drive the car anywhere, and secondly, 3 metres of fuel line (rubber) is much cheaper than the steel ones and work involved. As for flushing out, I'll get that done later when I can bring the car into a shop. For the time being I need the coupe running as the sedan is now a shell, totally stripped and will only work like a flintstones car!:classic: Tonight is the night I get to finally re-acquaint myself with the coupe, ahh...

Yep, always something to put a dampener on things Well I'm heading out soon to get the new lines, then I'll start on the beast after work...

Well I finished the car on the weekend, apart from some minor interior items the car is done, well almost.... Spent the weekend removing the engine/gearbox from the sedan, change the rear main seal, converted the driveline to auto trans, fit the engine into the coupe (after the crane decided to tilt just for fun), fitted tailshaft, new brake mast cylinder, bled brakes, discovered the speedo cable wasn't there! so had to look for a spare one and still doesn't fit properly, fabricate a 2.25" exhaust, fitted original K extractors, and a heap more. Anyway, start the car, sounds great and looks it too, suddenly dies from lack of fuel, end up discovering or "theorising" that the steel fuel lines are blocked and /or the tank has some nice debris. Fuel pump is working, tested fuel in a coke can and she sucked it up no worries. So today I'll be getting myself a length of fuel line, running it in line with the existing one and swapping tanks over, just to be safe. THEN I'll be able to give the car a run! Fingers crossed...!

Mate, Whereabouts are you? I'm in Melbourne

I'ce called all my C110 or 240K's "The K". Sounds cool in an Austin Powers kind of way "the K, baby yeaahh"!

Hmm well he said 3 weeks, so hopefully they're not too far away! Thanks for the info..!

By the sounds of things it sounds as though the R31GTS models had different rear end set ups, was probably just the base 'executive' versions that came out with solid rear. Interesting...

I was under the impression all R31 diffs were solid axle, not like the R series ie R160, 180, 200, etc. I stand to be corrected though....

Woohoo!!! Thanks Mike, great idea! I'm trying to get another guy from Melbourne to join the club, he's got about 5 240K's at home, my old coupe plus sedans. He knows heaps of stuff about them also, would be good for info... James

If you can figure out why the pistons have valve reliefs I'd be glad to know as well. In theory you'd assume it's because of a clearance issue but as you've said, there doesn't seem to be a difference. An interesting one anyway...

I've asked a few guys on this forum and outside and they all suggest that for the street 10.5:1 is probably border line for maximum C/R on the street. Should be a nice tyre burner!!! :classic: James