JMT240KGTR

Pic 1. Note the bog isn't used for filling rust!! Looks like it in these pics but it was only for smooth finishing.

Good stuff. Stay posted fellas, I'm about to add some pics of my old C110 GTR project within this post, a few minutes and you'll see.

Thanks Michael and Lachlan, would be good if we could get a site up wouldn't it?! Interesting news there Michael regarding the suspension of 240K's. Standard, deluxe and vans; that's new to me. Perhaps this was optional overseas, because I'm pretty sure all Oz made K's were of IRS rear, nothing else. I've never seen a reference for the C110 as having anything other than IRS, could you post where you got the info from, I'd be very interested in how that is set up! Well just when you think you know your cars, you learn something everyday! Cheers....:classic:

Couple of spots of rust but nothing major; surface rust type, not even rust in the dreaded rear quarters or rear screen surrounds. The colour of the car is gold (the pic in my gallery doesn't do it any justice, a bit dark??) and interior is black. The dash has the woodgrain finish removed and is black, not a bad look but I have a spare woodgrain instrument panel anyway. It is IRS as were all K's, sedan or coupe. As for a club, I think we should make a C110 club and incorporate it with this club, sort of like an L6 sister club. Who knows how to set up this sort of thing? Try and get a C110 register...

Just a quick one for the 240K/C110 guys out there. I finally landed a deal for the elusive 2 door C110/240K coupe, it'll be in my hands hopefully before Christmas. Swapping a 260Z 5 speed for a dead straight body, c/w everything except motor and trans; easy fix-swap all running gear from my sedan to the coupe!!! I'm excited I tell ya!!!:classic: It'll be a nice feeling getting my hands back on a coupe, can I join the 2 door club again???!!! Kyteler, Alfa??? Aah, never thought I'd land one again, relief.....

BrianG, I think you may have started another Z retro conversion here! Great idea and Michael, great work with the photos; the K lights look great on the Z. If anyones interested in rear lights, let me know, or PM me, cheers. James

That's great Victor, thanks for that. Yes, the g'box I have is the FS5C71B. Chris (Z kid), thanks also. Well I'm pretty happy then, a good 260Z box for $70!!! I was also fortunate enough to have the car run before I removed it, and listened very carefully through all gears for any noise; also listened for the dreaded whirring noise whilst in neutral, and all was good! Just for some more info, particularly for Oz guys, the g'box oil filler bolt is located on the LHS of the g'box on 240K (C110) models, as opposed to the RHS on Z's. Vic, thanks for the pics, great stuff. James

G'day Ben. Got the gearbox out of a 2+2 last night, took about 1/2 hour. Before I bought it I checked the first and second gear ratio's (now correct me if I'm wrong, but turning the input shaft anti-clockwise in selected gear and comparing output yoke turns is the method; correct?, haven't done this in years!) Now it seems what I have is a 2.9 first gear, and 1.9 second, the rest not measured but at least it looks like I have a genuine 260 box. (if my method was correct!) I was also under the impression the Z boxes had output flange, not yoke like the 240K. But as I say, the ratios tell me it's a Zed. What do you reckon??? James

Thats a great pic Ben; you've redeemed yourself! :classic: I'm off to buy a 260Z 5 speed now for $70, what a bargain, but I've got to remove it myself. Oh well, a half hours work for a good buy isn't too bad! After that it's a matter of fabricating the tailshaft to suit the K. Cheers

If you're in Melbourne and want to see a turbo L28 240K coupe in progress then go to see Lindsay at Z Shop. One of his blokes is building it; I'll give you a little history on that car. Used to be my mothers car, then mine when I got my license. Then I bought an L28 turbo with my 260Z, so I sold the K to my cousin and said "you can have the turbo if you're going to use it, if not give it back". Alas, he went overseas and sold the car to Lindsay w/turbo and accessories for a mere $500. I was not happy. Anyway it's their car now. Got rear GTR flares with huge Jap race rims and tyres, he reckons it'll put out 300+ HP. By the way, it's straight gas!!!:stupid:

So he thought...:classic: If you look back on that site and refer to the late '60's/early '70's you'll see the 510 was a pretty competitive car as well. Also, I think in '76 a 260Z had to stop the race because of overheating. Some interesting stuff there anyway...

Well I have evidence and thanks for welcoming me to present it; check this link http://www.angelfire.com/ms/touringcar/bathursthistory/bathurstresults/1974.html 1974 James Hardie Bathurst 1000, Datsun 240K came 7th overall and was driven by Doug Whiteford who raced many a Datsun. And sorry, please tell me why it would have been beaten by a stock 120Y??? There are other links and info I have but the above is just a taste, well enough for you to eat your words anyway. :sick:

A Y70 head??? An L20E motor?? Is this a 6 cylinder? If I'm correct the Y series head is very very rare and sought after; any pics available. Is it a crossflow head. The distributor cap screws on as well. Very interesting indeed! By the way, take that rocker cover off with the big NISSAN lettering; they're also becoming quite scarce and fetch a good price if you want to sell it. Any other news from either yourself or Alfa regarding the K's?? Be good to stay up to date...!

Gav, PGC10 Skylines weren't raced at Bathurst if I'm correct; only C110 240K's were raced in Oz; by that I mean Skyline variant.

Never had issues with removing cam towers/re-alignment issues. All you need to do is ensure when re-assembling the towers and cam is as you progressivley tighten down that the cam is moving freely. Now to determine what freely is remove the rockers whilst the cam and tower are still in (before removal), rotate the cam and you'll know what to feel for when re-assembling. Also, during re-assembly of the cam and towers, ensure the rockers aren't in; place these in after you've aligned/tightened cam and towers. I know someone who placed the rockers in, then the cam and towers; wasn't able to determine "true feel" and ended up re-building the engine. As for shaving the head if you're leaning that way, .030" is max according to the books before shims are required on towers, however, I've done up to .050" with a new chain, guides, tensioner etc etc and haven't had issues. I would recommend using shims/new rocker/lash pads if shaving more than .040" though for peace of mind. I've found by being a little adventurous and creeping over what "the bible says" doesn't hurt; it's when people go too far over recommendations they stuff things up.

Gav, 180 psi puts it around the high 9-low 10's C/R mark, which is pretty good for street. You can shave the head .030" (max recommended before shims req'd IF you go by the book!). Shaving the head .030" should increase C/R more than half a point ie .5+, so if you think you've got 10:1, this will up it around the 10.5+ mark. Bear in mind your SU's may need looking at, the engine will be thirstier although you are currently at the 10:1 mark so I assume the SU's are running well and should be able to cope with a little increase in fuel/air delivery. That being said if you really want noticeable power increases at this stage with a C/R of 10+:1, start looking around for Dellortos or Webers, you won't go back to SU unless you find them expensive and a pain in the @#$%! Or have your SU's re-jetted and modified (throats bored), even cheaper alternative and when done properly, perform almost as good as triples. A little advance in timing is nice, try that. What diff ratio is in your Z? A 3.9 or higher ratio will give life to a sometimes sluggish starter but good top end engine. The mods you mentioned ie port matching, 3 way valve job etc are mods pretty much confined to much higher comp/turbo engines, gains from these mod's will be much more noticeable than on a street car; although people do it for the street so the choice is yours. If I were you with the C/R you currently have, I'd take the SU's off, wrap them up and put aside, and instead of spending money on a valve job and port matching, keep the money for triple 45mm carbs. Gains from this compared to what you were thinking of will be much, much greater and your Z will fly. Mate I SWAPPED my set of triple 45DHLA Dellortos for a set of 240SU's and I tell you what I bloody regret it; I was an idiot!! Cheers. :classic:

LanceM thats a classic story; not recommended but imagining that scene would've been something to laugh at; well I suppose you can now looking back and injury free from it! I guess we all do crazy things sometimes when it comes cars, where would we be without this sense of creativity and ingenuity?! :classic:

Thanks heaps Vic; read it before somewhere in here, must have been your post but couldn't quite remember! Thanks again!