JMT240KGTR

F54 in a 280C?! Interesting, never seen one in them before, all I've ever seen is N42, check for flat top pistons in your F54 block, might have got lucky there! I dare say you should be OK for valves, all 280C I've seen had the complete N42 package with N42 head (44m inlet valves). Alan is right about sump/oil pick up; I had to change mine to suit a front oil pickup and it was a pain in the @#$%! James

Yeah it's illegal here as well. Mine isn't lowered significantly to attract attention, and the cuts are neat and aren't noticeable; keep it neat, not too radical and you should be OK. I passed my roadworthy test with them on and they weren't picked up, so I guess my theory worked. If you dump your car 3 inches, be ready for some blue/red flashing lights in your rear mirror James

Costs to lower the car = $0.00 Cut an inch off the front springs, wouldn't do it more than that on stock struts. Rear, likewise, be prepared put up with some negative camber. Be sure not to cut too much off at a time. There are obviously better ways to lower a car, ie lowered springs, shorter struts etc but I found the car handled pretty good so didn't bother. I already had heavy duty springs all round, so they're stiffer than stock and provide better handling. James

280zx's didn't have SU's; all EFI. The Datsun SU carbs you want are from the 240Z. These are very simple to tune and easy to work with. Don't get the 260Z carburettors unless you find a 260Z that has 240Z carbs on it . Make sure you get the fuel rail, manifold, linkages, filter/s, bolts/nuts/washers and anything else relevant attached. Good set of SU's go from a $100 bargain to $500 fully rebuilt. Good luck, oh and new triple carbs put aside $2500 plus $200+ for a manifold. James

If you go triple carbs Webers or Dellortos; other makes you may find hard to find spares for. Carb size ie 40's, 45's, 48's, 50's etc depend on engine specs. Slightly modified eg cam work stick with 40's, higher C/R + cam work maybe 45's. Higher than this you start talking sprint's, circuit racing, although you can have the chokes downsized to suit your application. You'll find SU carbs are very adaptable; I had a very quick 260Z that would outpace, accelerate quicker than many triple carbed Z's, but all things considered if you were to race then triple's would be the go. SU's give very good street economy and grunt at the same time. James

Should bolt straight up to the motor, as for length/crossmember not 100% on that, sorry.

Hey fellas I never thought car enthusiasts would bring up topics like hunting on a automotive forum, but since you have, let me have a say :classic: First of all I own three rifles and two shotguns-all licensed and locked; why? Because I am a hunter. I regard myself as a hunter and I make a point of this because of the difference between shooters and hunters. I do not regard myself as the stereotypical media hyped moron, mind you though these gun happy dickheads do exist and are a blight on a skilful sport, I always shake my head when I see roadsigns cluttered with shotgun holes- I think to myself sarcastically 'they must be really skilful to hit a huge sign with with pellets that spread 2.5 metres, why don't they try a target 250mts away no bigger than football!'. I'm not surprised so many people react shocked when they find out/ask me, and I make a point of distinguishing between what the real hunter does as opposed to the low lifes. What I shoot, I take home, never more than I need, if so, some friends/relatives get some. I also hunt on foot, ALL THE TIME, not with dogs, not in the back of a ute with spotlights; I'm too tired in the evening from walking 20-30klms in a day tracking a deer or wild boars. I do my drinking in the evening, couple of scotch, lovely. We also help our farmers to some extent; many of them now charge a daily fee to hunt their properties, fair enough as times are tough AND assisting in removing pests from their land, namely wild pigs who tear into sheep and lambs on a daily basis when their number are up; this goes for foxes as well. Anyway enough of my attempt at justifiying what I do in a legal, responsible and safe manner, just wanna let you guys know hunting is just another activity that I love doing in the great outdoors; nothing better than pitching a tent by a river, sitting by a huge redgum fire, listening to/telling a few tall tales and looking up in amazement trying to figure out where did all those stars come from! Just thought I'd let you guys know my case, thanks.

Lachlan I'm getting worried about you mate! Are you trying to tell us that instead of seeing a pair of legs in overalls when you work under the car we'd instead see legs in a mini skirt???!!! Surely not....

Thanks Nick. Did you ever end up getting an A/C unit for your 240K? James

AlanT, I wouldn't blame you for being cynical, after all it's true when you hear stories like this you tend to think twice about their validity. As far as I know, the guy (Rob) went to Japan back in the early '80's and apparently bought these moulds that Nissan used for the C110 series. From what I understand he paid a mint for these and was disappointed on return to Australia the demand wasn't there for them. Only two sets have been produced from his moulds before I had mine made. I haven't seen the moulds myself, but his story sounds OK; I guess I'm not really in a position to determine whether these are genuine or not, I'm not sure what ID to look for besides Nissan! Any idea if they are Genuine Nissan what markings/codes I should look for? Cheers, James:

I've set the idle screws a little higher to compensate on mine. Without doing this the 'slack' was really noticeable. I'm also thinking of looking into the Ford Weber carbs as a conversion for the L6; apparently some Falcons have downdraught Webers- will investigate this option, a handy mod to know of...hmm:geek:

Agree. Cable vs rod linkage; rod linkage = no slack I guess...

Yeah if/when I get another set of flares that's all I'll be fitting. Considering for the time being my car will be a daily driver I think the rear and front spoilers would over do it; weekend car, no worries I would fit it all on! The cars look pretty good just with flares as well, mine was lowered all round and looked good.

Cut the rear arches yet? It's a pain, but straightforward if you can follow... :cross-eye

Damn you got a good bargain there Lachlan! I do find the first inch depressed is a little sticky, a bit of WD40 around all the moveable linkage points helps heaps but I gather this must part of having SU's. Mind you the pedal on my old 260Z didn't feel like that, although they were British SU's. James

I'm on the case for the flares, guy in Melb has original Nissan flare moulds so I'll try to get in touch with again soon. Or you could try another member here, Alfadog(Lachlan) who's just informed me he got his flares from Japan. We also have Kyteler (Michael) who owns a K as well. The K list is growing all the time, but the cars are becoming harder to find!!!

Got some pics in my gallery, also look at this page below, my 1st attempt at a web page so don't be too critical http://www.geocities.com/jt_240k_gtr_01/Datsun240K.html James

Interesting, thanks for that! Well the gold that comes through in that shot is pretty much the colour I have, and the dark centres look good. Thanks a heap for that, appreciate it :classic:

G'day mate, The 240K C110 club is growing! If I were you I'd forget about trying too hard on getting your hands on fender mirrors; not in Australia anway! As for a K club, I suggested it a while back but I'm not able to maintain anything with it, merely an idea! What parts do you need? James

I'm running my 240Z carbs with the standard 240K set up, all I've done is connected the 240K linkage from the firewall to the carb linkage. See attached

Easy swap. Make sure all lines from auto trans are disconnected b4 you remove the g'box. Pedal box isn't required, already a provision within the K's pedal box for the clutch pedal to slide onto, just circlip it on, attach spring and attach to clutch mast cylinder. Same length propellor/tailshaft, g'box mount auto/manual is identical. You'll have to re-wire part of your ignition circuit (auto trans removed now) so a relay works fine here. If you're not sure how to do this, just get an auto elec to do it ~$50-+?? Also plug off the hole in the inlet manifold after you remove the "can't remember the name of it" line to the auto box. It's a worthwhile swap, put a couple of days aside if it's the first time you've done this, that way you'll enjoy it and not end up an angry fellow! Cheers, James

This may be a little late (didn't check the post date) but there are a few more different mouldings/items that won't fit. Front and rear screen chrome surrounds- can't swap. Rear light panel- can't swap Rear boot lid- can't swap Rear boot, light chrome surrounds-can't swap Door and rear window chrome trim- can't swap All glass- can't swap Rear seat- can't swap Apart from that everything else is it's a straight bolt in; wheelbase length on K's are the same, so tailshaft lengths, g'boxes, etc etc is identical. James

14 inch. I think I better get myself this Adobe program of yours, sounds pretty good.