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Everything posted by Av8ferg
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Chas, you’re the best...thank you trying. I thought I found one, paid for it and then got an email saying they had already sold it and they refunded my money. Interesting website, I have never heard of but they sell all sorts of vintage original Z parts and are very responsive. https://maseraticompound.com/search?q=280z Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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View Advert 280z stock right front lower valance Looking for a right (passenger side) front lower valance that is not damaged or dented. Color doesn’t matter. Advertiser Av8ferg Date 11/12/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280z
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280z Bumper Conversion: Who Kept 280z Lower Valence?
Av8ferg replied to Muzez's topic in Body & Paint
They’re out there but you’ll have to dig a little. I’ve got my xenon bolted on and it’s beginning to grow on me, even after I dropped my stock lower valance and one part I bought online to the paint shop. I’ll have two options now. https://www.ebay.com/itm/122821181596 https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-nissan-fairlady-z/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-uk-euro-spec-oem-front-spoiler?variant=788903109 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
In MSAs defense they are the best overall place to buy Z parts, in my opinion. They actually answer the phone, are very friendly and willing to answer questions. It’s hard to be good all they time, I’m just frustrated because I was just left in the dark for about 26 days, waiting on a part to be coated. A part I could do without but not the other stuff. Oh and try calling zcardepot….they never pick up, you get voicemail and it can take days for a email reply. Both places have a good selection of parts and competitive prices. I default to MSA because I can talk to a human if I have a question and they’ve all been super nice.
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I plan to use the same 280z ECU that’s in my car. The single should be the same so I don’t think I’ll have a problem
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Dave, this sensor is not intended to be in coolant like the 280z one in the thermostat housing. It’s a dry sensor. Speculation talking with people with more knowledge than I think Nissan moved this sensor to the head to get a better indication of engine operating temp back where cooling is least efficient. The back of the engine being hotter by the mere fact it gets less air flow and coolant will likely take the path of least resistance nearer to the pump making the engine cooler up front. You have to assume Nissan kept trying to improve the engine and this was one iteration of this process. It’s only a guess. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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So, I’ve mostly had a good experience with them. The reality is I’ve has some issues with all the Z retailers. Zcardepot sent my the wrong tie rod and it was a pain to get them to sent me a replacement. They wanted pictures and multiple detailed explanations. I finally sent them a video showing the treads were for the wrong side, the whole process took over 3 weeks. Then they asked me to send it back on my dime. I never did and won’t. Anyone need a drivers side tie rod 😁. I just want MSA to update their website to show things that back ordered or send you and email and ask how you want to proceed. It’s simple, be now we are living in a world where the customer is no longer as valuable as the past. You are almost a nuisance to some. It’s hard to find quality people. This is the new paradigm we have to live with. I see it everywhere I go. Prices are insane everywhere., workers are worse than ever…the sky is falling 🤣
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So here’s a view of all the sensors in this housing. Only using the two on the right. The other two are because it’s next to impossible to find a plug to fit in these holes. You think you find one and as it tightens you can feel it wiggling so it would more than likely leak. My ECU temp sensor is on the head, you can see it in the second pic. BTW, I’m not happy with MSA right now. I called today to ask them where my heater and Rad hoses are. They haven’t mailed them because some little other item in my basket was back ordered so they decided to sit on all the other parts. It’s been 4 weeks since I made the order and they didn’t even email to tell me what was going on. That’s really all I’m waiting for. Apparently the hoses are being mailed tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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So as luck would have it I had to take a different route. While I have 4 different thermostat housings, there are compatibility issues with all of them. Some are in rough shape with locked up fittings. Some are Z some are ZX and each believe it or not have some variation in opening sizes for sensors. It’s bizarre what Nissan did here but It creates problems. Some ports have tapered threads and some don’t. It’s a mystery what they did. So I when with a ZX one that was in nice shape, used various sensors I don’t need to plug holes I won’t use. I added 26” of wire an ran it the ECU temp sensor to the head near cylinder 5. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I have extra ones if you need them. Send me a PM. Sorry, I looked closer at you post and thought you we looking for the rug hold down under the dash. I don’t think I have extra under dash brackets but I’ll look. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Cliff, I think I’m going to buy that PS20. I can’t get a stable reading from my coil. It bounces from 1.6 to .8 and the center terminal is very rusty even have trying to clean it was sand paper. I don’t want to be chasing gremlins on start. What is the charge in gap setting for the plugs? Specs say it’s a 1.4 ohm primary resistance.
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Thanks Zedhead, I’ll try again. Couldn’t get a stable reading between those posts last time, the meter was bouncing all over. Changed the batteries on the meter and still no luck. I’ll relook at it this AM.
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Possibly....I’d have to dig. I could also pull the one off my old engine which has the correct holes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Possibly....I’d have to dig. I could also pull the one off my old engine which has the correct holes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Quick question for the you guys. I was doing continuity checks on my harness today to make sure I have the right wires going to the correct sensors. When I did that I discovered I didn’t have my Thermotime sensor installed in my thermostat housing. That sensor has the same size hole and threads as the coolant temperature sensor that was installed. There is only one port with that size opening in the thermostat housing and I had originally set it up thinking was going to go carbs. I need to put the Thermotime sensor where the coolant sensor was I have a P79 head with the cylinder head temp sensor. I’m thinking I need to extend the wires that went to the temperature sensor in the thermostat housing and run the connector to the sensor on the head which is located near the oil dip stick. I just want to make sure these sensors have the same temp curve that are sent to the ECU. From what I’ve read these sensors provide temp to the ECU to determine the duration of the length of the injector pulse to get the correct richness. Not sure why Nissan moved the sensor so before I snip wires I want to make sure it’s the right decision. Happy Sunday 😁
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I need to get help clearing the air on the coil for these cars. I begin by saying I have 2 coils, one was on the car and the other in a box of Z parts I acquired. The coil (#1 )that was in the car doesn’t really fit in the bracket, it too big but with a longer bolt it works, the one in the box (#2) is too small and won’t hold in the stock bracket with stock screw, #1 has a resistance from the center post to the (-) terminal of 1.5k ohms #2 has a resistance of 1.2 ohm #1 was on the car with the stock ballast resistor in place, and the car ran. I have subsequently removed the ballast resistor because I’m using the ZX e12 matchbox ignition. The 82’. FSM says you want between .8k and 1.2k ohms across the center post and the (-) terminal. So, I think the #2 coil that doesn’t fit the bracket has the proper resistance but doesn’t fit. #1 coil has too much resistance. All the coils I see advertised on places like MSA have like the Flame Thrower (what a gimmick name BTW). They all have the 1.5k resistance too. I think found an NGK online with 1.2k ohms. Do you all think this is the right coil.
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Wait a min! I see a serious flaw with your car. You might want to see if you can sell it back. Someone put the steering wheel on the wrong side of the car! Joking aside....welcome to the forum and congrats on car, looks like a good find especially in the UK where those cars are super rare! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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These are great great aircraft. We are getting a new 767 almost monthly. I have been considering moving over the the 767. I already have the Type Rating and the pay is higher but I’d lose seniority which mean less control of my schedule, which mean less time with family. The aircraft are similar from flying standpoint. Most don’t like the 767 layout of the cockpit area with the 3 seats and the Lav in the cockpit but apparently it was initially built for UPS and we didn’t want to pay to change that. That’s awesome you build these things, something to be proud. ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Boeing 757-200 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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We go to pretty much every major city in the world. We have a base in Hong Kong that services Asia. That website hasn’t responded to my question yet. Might be an old posting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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280z Bumper Conversion: Who Kept 280z Lower Valence?
Av8ferg replied to Muzez's topic in Body & Paint
Charles, thanks for looking I really appreciate that ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
StwveJ, I found a pic I took before I tore everything apart and found that all three black wires were grounded to the chassis. Another pic I can see the yellow wire tucking down under the thermostat. I forgot I took those pics. Thanks again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yep, I don’t have anything else going for the temp sensor on the thermostat housing so that should be it. It’s does have a smashed female spade connector. I’m going to assume all those black wires are grounds. Thanks for taking your time to help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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SteveJ, Thank you!! I thought I had the BCDD already hooked up but apparently not. The Yellow wire is 42” long and has a female spade connector. The connector is all smashed so don’t think it was attached recently. The three black wires are all the same length and have open wires, no connects. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk