Av8ferg

Mine is from a 82’ ZX. Looks like the top one. FPR is on, wasn’t too bad after reading Zed Heads advice. Easier that putting a pre-78 together. What the hell was Nissan thinking? I realize putting things back together take less about 4x the time of pulling apart. The small things are slowing me down. Like getting the throttle link to the pedal connected. Tight spaces. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good plan on the FPR. I have some other little tasks to finish, I’ll add that to that list.... thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks ZH, I checked and she’s flush and flat. Got the throw out bearing install and the transmission mounted. Put an old nasty valve cover on for install so I don’t booger up my nice one. Doing some final torque checks and marking the nut heads so I know which ones I’ve done and them I’m ready to drop this puppy in. Still haven’t pulled the drive shaft out. I have 3 guys so I’m hoping it’s possible to slide the yoke in during the install but we shall see. Tomorrow might be the day. I also pulled the billet fuel rail off. It was interfering with the throttle j-hook and I don’t have the FPR other than the stock one. This ZX rail I had powder coated so I’ll use it for now and maybe forever. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wish it were true that is that easy to get recruits. I was briefed once by USMC manpower HQ and they said 82% of age eligible citizens do not meet the minimum qualifications to join the military. No HS Diploma, drug usage, law offenses,, weight, medical, allergies, psychological and then entry test scores. It’s that bad! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cliff....you gotta pay your fair share! [emoji23] Public schools are for the benefit of all society not just our own kids. Your neighbors shouldn’t get a credit. We all live with the consequences of poor education. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We can get pilots and are hiring about 20 a month and there is a global pilot shortage( in the order of tens of thousands) we are the best place to be as a commercial pilots and people want to fly for us. Its the drivers and people who load the trucks and planes we are short on. It’s everywhere I go. . This trip to Europe; and before I say it I don’t want forum members who live there to be offended. I love to old charm of Europe, the history and food but you can really see how fast to world is changing when you are there. Things are coming to a head, I can’t explain it but there is tension everywhere. The UK was having fuel shortages, people were in the streets talking about food shortages and prices were off the chart. I watched a lady die 40 ft from me at a outdoor restaurant (not sure what happened) and not a single people tried to give CPR or any assistance other than her friend. Someone called an ambulance and they took her away. I was blown away. I really don’t know how the average person survives or prospers there. Food, fuel, services are all 50% higher than the US. I believe it’s coming here to the US and soon. The world is so politically divided, Covid stress, geopolitical tensions, social norms changing, financial strain and debt all are compounding it. I hope I’m wrong. I need a drink [emoji1634] now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree, everyone is looking for quality workers these days. Not an easy task. Where I work we are sort thousands of workers and we can’t fill the positions...not even close. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, they’re bottomed put, and yes the align perfectly. I’ve decided to shorten them with my grinder from 14mm to 10mm. The shoulder sticks out 4mm past flywheel surface now. Was thinking like Chas that they would fly out if I just bored out the pressure plate holes and be bouncing around the tranny bell housing. They fit nicely ground down to 10mm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The old ones are not coming out without destroying them. If you loo at the ones that came with the Fidanza flywheel you will see they’re stepped. When fully seated you can see the step. Well the Exedy pressure plate won’t go over the step. So i think I may have to open up the hole on the plate to be able to fit pins through the pressure plate. Just to be clear there is no space that is supposed to between the flywheel and the plate mounting surface. I know it sounds like a dumb question because that would make no sense not just be 100% clear Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay makes sense. Those pins came with the flywheel. I’m going to pull of the ones from my old engine and see what they sit like. The pins are stepped also. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Back from Europe and in the garage moving the Z ball down the field. Installed the Fidanza fly wheel and ran into a question when putting in the clutch pressure plate. The fly wheel came with three alignment pins. The FSM says the clutch pressure plate bolts are torques to 17 fly lbs. When I tighten the bolts to 17 it seem to bow the pressure plate. See pics. Not sure if this looks right? Anyone have a comment or clarification of my install procedure. Just looks wrong to me. In the below photo there are 2 yellow circles. Look at the distance between the pressure plate and flywheel. The side with the pin is much further away from the flywheel. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wally, I did this resto myself and it wasn’t hard just time consuming. I did like the others mentioned (and filled the forum advice). I stripped the spikes to the metal, primed and the put several coats of satin. On the resin/wood portion just sand smooth, wipe off any dust and residue and then go with clear Poly. Clear poly isn’t a actually clear is has a light tint by it very nature. Puts a nice color on the wheel. I put about 4-5 coats of poly (spray). Darkens a bit with more coats. You don’t need any stain (this is a point of disagreement on the forum). I’d make it to your liking. Here’s techniques I used. Poly takes a long time to dry. I waited 12 hrs between coats, lightly sanded with like 600 grit sand paper between coats, wipe down between coats. Poly is fickle, it can sometimes lay uneven (it runs so lay it on thin) , it can get bubbles easily and dust can land on it during the long drying phase. The sanding in between should mitigate most of that. Be sure the area you are spaying is dust and wind free or else it will be a problem. Strip and paint the spokes first, then do the wheel. Good luck and post pics. He was mine, got from a junk yard. It was bad and the yard still charged me $40 or $50. Before: Middle: After: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s awesome, never seen that. Amazing we have so much knowledge available at any time from anywhere. Oops…not everyone, we can’t include the likes of Captain Obvious here. He’s still using a fax machine and western union. I will say it’s easier to ask “The forum Librarian”, Siteunseen than to do your own search he’s got all the forum topics categorized like the Dewey Decimal System?

You are probably on a forum with the most gracious, kind and helpful people you will ever encounter on a car forum. The regulars on here are highly experienced but also very forthcoming with advice tips and a myriad of other virtues. In life you get what you give. When you have concerns about advice given or published in the Nissan manual its fine to ask why but it’s really not a good idea to try and respond with a underhanded or sarcastic comment. I think is is a good idea to search the forum, read the details of your area of concern. If the answers don’t satisfy you or you have questions it’s absolutely fine to reach out and get clarification. Honestly Siteunseen sent you the link to everything you needed, he did the search for you. Being on a forum is no different than walking into a conference large room where you get to raise your hand and ask a question. I’d ask you how you would approach that in real life? Maybe something like “Hi, my name is Dam I own a xxxx Z that I’m restoring and have a lot of questions and was hoping someone could steer me in the right direction on a engine removal technique “. We’ve allowed social media to change the manner in which we deal with people and we need to take a step back and treat social media interactions the same as you would real ones. Its a problem of this new social media world where are all in and where it’s okay to say something you’d never say to someone’s face....Something to think about ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OBTW...I think the instructions supplied with Koni’s are beyond terrible. I get what they’re trying to do. Have instructions that don’t required 15 different languages but it’s not a lot of work to make instructions for the 4-5 major languages in the world. When you get on forums all of the internet for people putting Koni’s in other cars the SAME Questions come up over and over again so obviously the instructions are terrible. So how about they fix them so they make sure the customers are happy with their product and confident they did it right. Just an idea? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Joe, thanks for the post. Im overseas for work but can partly answer some of your questions. You are correct the gland nut I used wasn’t stock but the ones that I removed when replacing the old shock inserts. They were almost identical to the Koni’s except the number of threads. The Koni’s have about 1/2 the amount of threads that the ones I removed. The thread pitch was correct because I tested fitted the Koni gland nut prior to installing the shocks. When I put them on with the shocks, they would thread on fine but when I began hitting high torque values >50 they would pop and be loose again. Almost like they jumped a thread. It was very odd . It happened 3x I tried it and for fear of damage I decided they were unusable. Inspection of The threads on the strut post those attempts showed no damage at all. There were marks on the top of the shock inserts where the gland nut was bottoming out. When I used the gland nut I previously removed from The car they were able to bite more threads in the strut and thus not pop or jump threads at torque over >50 but I chose to stop at 70 ftlbs . The silver ring you see at the top of my strut is a metal tape and a strip of flashing tape. They are there so that I didn’t damage the new powder coating on strut when installing the shocks in the gland nuts with the gland nut tool. There was no modifications to the strut. They’re were stripped with a blasting agent and powder coated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So happy for you Cliff. I made this realization 4 years ago when I retired from the USMC. I was moving up the leadership ladder and was the likely candidate to be the Commander of8 squadrons. The price to my family and time was unacceptable to me and I realized time was the most precious and valuable asset I had. I no longer was willing to trade this precious time for money and my ego. I’m happy you took this step. When we were 25 we had time and no money but things change as we get older and wis, at some point you realize your time is limited so you can’t waste it doing something that doesn’t make you happy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, I’ve been putting in about 4 hrs a day to get here. I got Covid at some point too in the process (yes I’m vaccinated), had to wait for parts, had to wait for powder coating. Tomorrow I’m going to install the flywheel, and clutch on new engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Car is back on the ground. Everything is on but not torqued down yet until I get the engine in and a couple buddies to sit in front seat. I wouldn’t say this was an easy job to do as a one man band. Lots of challenges and work stoppages but finally we are ready for an engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been battling the proper way to install these Koni’s. I read the long thread on the forum about them and it helped a lot. I decided to make a short video and wrap it all up and see if everyone agrees that I didn’t this correct. I also posted this video over on the Koni thread for future members looking for instructions. Gland nuts were an issue that I didn’t mention in the video but did over in the Koni thread. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This was a interesting read. Lots of issues people have had. I just installed mine and made a video to see if you all think I did this correct based on the posts here and to help future members. FYI I used the stock gland nuts because the ones supplied with my shocks didn’t work. Everytime I attempted to toque them down they’d slip. The threads were clean and no cross threads. The stock ones worked fine but I only torqued to 70lbs because I was getting nervous about breaking something with any more force.

Gotcha, I was wondering what that was about, makes sense now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m confused, I have no idea what you guys are referring to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had a run in with a heavy hammer a a few months ago driving in a stake with my son. Lost an index finger nail two years ago removing the PCV from under the intake of the Z after the wrench slipped. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks again Bruce. Eibach springs arrived and they’re the right ones for the 280z. 6303-001 Fronts 63003-002 Backs Starting putting them on and ran into a small problem with the bellows I bought from zcardepot. I can figure out which way they go. The ends of the bellows have places to put clamps. One side is wide the other thinner and the diameter is larger on the wide side. If I put the wide side towards the bottom of the strut the bellow clamp area is too large (diameter) to cinch down on the strut, it ends up folding on itself. The other way around you cannot fit it over/around the upper seat. It’s would need to stretch pretty far and I can seem to get it over. Anyone else face this problem? This last pic it what I think is the proper orientation but again it requires me to stretch the top part of the bellows over the flange on the upper strut seat. See first pic. Does this seem right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk