Av8ferg

I may have missed this but have you tried adding rear strut spacer? Also, maybe experiment with cutting your old springs and see what you can do there. You might be happy before cutting your new Eibachs. Just an idea. Lastly what if you put the old stock non lowered springs back on there rear? Maybe I missed some things you’ve already tried, sorry if I’m repeating ideas given. https://zcardepot.com/products/upper-strut-mount-spacer-240z-260z-280z?variant=19280977494129&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-batuuDE8gIVCWyGCh1jfg3dEAQYASABEgJ2__D_BwE Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So do you still have stock springs on the back? If so are you sure someone didn’t cut them already? Seems to be way lower than normal back there. The Eibachs you put on the front helped, looks like it dropped maybe more than an inch. I just bought Eibachs all around and Koni springs too. They haven’t arrived yet but hope it works out. This is mine now with 100% stock suspension. It’s sitting pretty high. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Car are way too complicated today. Manufactured obsolescence is a business model. All the plastic and electronics are meant to be thrown away not repaired. If the 12” screen fails in 10 years good luck replacing it or pay a fortune. We have this problem in military aviation. We are forced to upgrade perfectly good items across the fleet because nobody makes the parts anymore. In order to incentivize manufacturing we would pay crazy amounts for otherwise very inexpensive parts. Car companies don’t want your to keep you car more than 10 yrs. I once owned a BMW. The pasts were so outrageous I got rid of it. $1800 for one headlight assembly because it would follow the road. The car had more plastic than a Las Vegas stripper. Plastic coolant parts? There is beauty in simplicity. You can almost keep your classic Z running forever with little cost because it simple proven technology. The second part of the auto problem is government regulations which continue adding complexity and cost to cars. The new infrastructure bill just passed by the Senate requires all US cars to have Drunk Driver Detection systems installed at manufacturing. This drives car prices out of reach of the lower income population segments and makes repair and maintenance outrageous. There are always unintended consequences of regulation. I’m curious to see what Nissan gives us but their recent history isn’t giving me much confidence. As far as EVs, they’re coming like it or not. Won’t be long before you are guilted to sell your gas powered vehicle or the government forces your hand like CA has done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I mentioned that I’m doing all the front suspension while the motor is out. I’ve cleaned up and painted the steering rack but was wondering about the inner tie rods. - how do you know they’re in need off replacment - read somewhere they are hard to find and only left side is available meaning you need a different outer tie rod, - found some for $50 each but don’t want to buy them if not needed. I didn’t tear down the rack, it seemed to steer fine and hadn’t noticed any play, is this a mistake? The suspension is a dirty job and it had caked on stuff everywhere. Incredible it could be that bad.

Well, looks like I’m going to make it! Mercury and Venus aligned and somehow it all fell into place with work.

I have my entire front suspension completely apart. Looks like a yard sale in my garage. The crust and caked on grime and dirt made it hard to even find some of the bolts. Had to pick it off with a screwdriver just to get the socket on many of the bolts. I had a couple questions. 1. Koni vs KYB on the Eibach lowering springs? The guy at MSA on the phone was adamantly against the KYBs for lowering springs. They could/will bottom out on rough roads and they’re not warranted. Said the Koni are far superior and is what they’re recommend even for a daily driver. 2. New bump stops? Looks like you can only get poly as replacement. Any concerns there? If my old rubbers ones look fine, just keep them in or replace with poly so I don’t have to go back in there later? Anything else I’m missing? Getting a spring compressor tool tomorrow and getting the old springs off and get the struts down to powder coating. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I read about that port closure. I had heard from a bird that there “might” be issues at Whitehead but I feel better knowing you had a good experience. I’ll order from there and see what happens. His prices are way better than CA Datsun and he does distinguish between 240z and 280z Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bruce, concur with you 100%. Do you agree the flange doesn’t sit flat if they’re installed backwards? Those brackets look pretty rusty!,, 🤣. How does the rack looks?

Good to know. I tried to contact Whitehead Performance (website states in stock). I’ve gotten no response from him on email and his voicemail is full and not taking messages, That never inspires confidence! I may have to go with Vogtlands but I haven’t got much feedback in the forum about them. MSA said it will be 2022 before Eibach are back in due to shipping and production delays . Ports are backed up all over the US and shipping containers are scarce and rates have exploded. The triple whammy.

So I was able to find rubber bushings for the steering rack but it seems people prefer the poly there. I guess it provides better steering response? I just don’t want any squeaking so hopefully that’s not a problem. I have rubber for all other bushings. So Captain Obvious made an interesting observation regarding the steering rack brackets, the ones that connect the rack to the crossmember. There are two half moon shaped brackets and looking at them they appear symmetrical but he had noticed a slight variation in them. I went to test fit mine on the rack and discovered there is a front and back to these brackets. If you put them on wrong there is a noticeable gap in the rear matting surface. Astonishing, he was able to see the suttle difference in the way the bracket transitions to horizontal on the outer flange of the bracket. See pics below. Also I was able to find a set of Eibach Lowering at California Datsun. They way more money there but I don’t have a lot of options with COVID supply shortage on everything. Anyway that vendor doesn’t delineate between 240z and 280z Eibach springs like all other online vendors. Can anyone confirm that the springs would in fact be different? MSA has 240z Eibach springs but not 280z in stock. This makes me think there is a difference. Please pipe in if you know the answer or have an opinion about an alternative spring that is available, Votglands. I need a solution, as I’m planing to build the rack and suspension back up in the next 14 days. Sent the crossmember out for powder coat yesterday.

Okay a couple things I wanted to post about. Finally got the Steering Rack out. The tie rods were tough to get off even with a tie rod fork. Took an hour just to get those off. Once the whole front suspension is off I’ll take it to get powder coated satin black. So here are a couple questions. 1. Steering Rack bushings. Seems to be a lot of thread history on these. I guess the 280 had one mounting point larger that the other unlike the 240. Here is a pic of mine . You can see how different the rubber bushings are between passenger and drivers side. I need to replace them. I’ve been opting for rubber over poly everywhere else. Does that matter on the steering rack or should I get rubber? 2. Here is a pic of my transmission crossmember. I don’t want to replace the bushings if I don’t need to here. I know the only option is poly of I remove mine. I think the rubber still is good but the hole isn’t perfectly centered anymore. Is it okay to keep these and forgo replacement? Also I can’t find any Eibach lowering springs only Vogtland. I haven’t read great stuff about Vogtlands (harsher and coil thickness less so it doesn’t set perfectly) Anyone know a source for Eibachs? MSA is sold out and it’s 6 month minimum for back order. I can’t have my car on jack stands for that long. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Part Number: 30610-U750A You can still get them from Nissan. https://parts.courtesynissanoftampa.com/p/Datsun__280Z/Cylinder-Master/89597235/30610-U750A.html?partner=googlebase Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

View Advert Looking for a set of Lowering Springs I tried to order a set of Eibach Lowering Springs for a 280z today but it appears they’re out of stock at MSA. Was wondering if anyone had a set they aren’t using and would like to sell. Thanks, John Advertiser Av8ferg Date 08/10/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280z  

Everything in life is a about balance. When we allow things in life to get out of balance negative stuff starts to happen. Whether it’s our diet, drinking, spending or any litany of things we suffer with imbalance . Sure the hobby takes away time from relationships but we all need an outlet, we all need white space from the people in our close circles. I generally don’t work on my car when my kids or wife are home. I find time when they’re doing their things. School or work or their hobbies....the key is to know when it’s time and not time.

Jim, thanks just wanted I needed to hear. The thought of cutting my struts to put coilovers on didn’t seem like something I wanted to do. I’m going to research your suggestion. And it’s always about the journey and not the destination, but at some point I do want to enjoy it. So no more mission creep for me. Like you said Jim. Get the engine bay cleaned up, replace the engine rework the front end suspension and steering and enjoy it until the winter hits and then tackle the rear end. Wife hasn’t complained about the car at all. We’ve had several visitors to the house and every one of the men always talk about how much they love the Z. My wife is hearing it and realizes it’s not exactly the POS she thought it was . Still hates the Viper though!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Today’s mission. Remove the front suspension. Now that the engine is out I can see what a mess it is. I had already bought all new rubber, ball joints etc…but had planned on doing that later but with the engine out I think I need to do it now. I have a local powder coating guy that I’ll take all the parts too to have coated including the cross member. I live near the beach…the salt air is relentless. Now once I have the suspension off should I do the struts? I’m sure I need new ones. The next question do you just keep it stock or buy coilovers? What are you guys running and/or recommend? I don’t like the big fender gap I have but it’s not a big deal. I mostly want a nice driving, fun street car. Does the Z rabbit hole end?

Can’t wait to use that logic on my wife and see how she reacts! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How about this guy. Even has the same first name! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Cliff you always seems to have the answers.

Thanks Zed Head I’ll give that a shot! I started taking lots of photos of the engine bay and play to work my way slowly around cleaning up and refinishing item that are rust and replace worn items. I’m starting with the front left corner where the coil is. So the distributor on my new motor came out of a 280ZX (you may remember my distributor rebuild thread about a year ago). I’m pretty confident my coil and ballast resistor (1977) is not designed to work with that distributor. I’ll need a replacement and I guess I’ll have to remove the ballast resistor??? I’m not sure? This is what my setup looks like now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, I know it possible but didn’t have time today to screw with it. I looked at it this AM and was like...nope not gonna happen So if I have to remove the DS then is that the right time to go ahead and put the spear ZX diff in too and get the rear end done. I had contemplated doing that over the winter but once the DS is off maybe I keep loving forward on the new diff too. I don’t want to get distracted too much and get overloaded. Too many people are great at taking apart but somehow it take forever to get it all back in. I’d like to have the engine in an running by next month. I have a big work trip (9 days) coming up so I’ll hit a work stoppage soon. Goal now is engine bay prep!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jeff, I did have to remove the bumper as well as upper and lower grills to get enough reach. With 3 people we were able to go slow and have eyes on any tight spots. I didn’t remove the driveshaft but she slid out and your jack idea facing back worked perfect. The bolts to the driveshaft are unreachable and I was biting my buddies time. You said you need to remove to install engine but I’m not sure why I can’t slide it back in like it came out. I haven’t had time to make an assessment of the rest of the engine bay misc items. Need to start with a good cleaning. I did discover the transmission mount crossmember needs new bushings. They’re in bad shape. Hope this isn’t hard to do. I don’t have a press just a basic table vice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Took about 1hr with two helpers. She’s out and now I have a bunch of work to do to get the bay squared away. Thanks for all the help. You all provided invaluable advice and support! Discovered the transmission was not the original. It had markings from a junk yard...she was toast anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, so remove the four bolts of the rear of the driveshaft. Is it okay to let the transmission hang down or do I need to support it before unbolting the motor mounts. It seems odd it would hang so low so just want to make sure that’s normal. 1. Remove 4 drove shaft bolts 2. Attach hoist to engine 3. Unbolt motor mounts She should slide right out..:. Or for Cliff this might happen! Who remembers the movie? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk