Av8ferg

Quick question. I removed the transmission mount and the transmission leaned downward almost to the floor and the axel started to slide out but not quite all the way. So I jacked the transmission back up. Do I need to remove the four bolts on the back of the axle near diff and pull it out or just raise the back of the car to get more clearance? I didn’t think with the transmission attached to the engine and engine mounts still bolted in it would lean down so far. What’s the correct procedure here? The bug pull out is happening in the AM tomorrow and I have two buddies helping so she needs to be ready to go! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, persistence usually works. I often go for harder vs smarter. I knew my car was from CA and here is the cat I pulled off. I’ve seen a lot of recent news of people cutting these off cars parked in parked overnight. My waitress last month in St Louis had hers cut off in her driveway on a Honda....cost her $550 to replace it. Anyone of you Californian’s need a cat? I’m sure this is sellable for the palladium or platinum at a min? We don’t need them in NC on older cars and this car is exempt from all state inspections and smog regulations anyway. I had to remove this heat shied to get better access to the driveshaft. Is this heat shield only on cars with catalytic converters?

Jeff, thought of that but there is one bolt on the inside toward block that will be nearly impossible to get torque on. I’m done screwing with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found some nice gifts in my transmission gear oil when I drained it. It explains the odd noises coming from it. Glad I have a spare 5 speed on hand. I’m have to cut the exhaust pipe, the impact wrench didn’t do a thing to the bolts. Hacksaw time! Side note: got delayed on Z work today. My neighbor pulled up in the new Bronco and he let me take it for a spin. Drives nice, lots of plastic, don’t like the displays . $51k on the sticker. [emoji2369] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found some nice gifts in my transmission gear oil when I drained it. It explains the odd noises coming from it. Glad I have a spare 5 speed on hand. I’m have to cut the exhaust pipe, the impact wrench didn’t do a thing to the bolts. Hacksaw time! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I meant 1/2” drive impact. 3/4 would be crazy!! I don’t have a torch to try heating it up and area too tight without blowing out a knuckle and getting a good cut. Goal is no injuries on this engine change. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All I have left is the exhaust and drive shaft those exhaust puppies are on there tight! Breaking out the 3/4” impact wrench. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jeff, Thanks for the advice. I have a folding lift. I can easily get the bumper off since it’s a new 240 style and not the railroad tie. Good advice all around. Got the radiator out today(what a mess) had to kick my dogs out of the garage before they tried to drink it. Wiring all labeled and disconnected. Working on the AC lines and compressor. Didn’t think the system was charged having sat so long. Got a nice blast of refrigerant on one line. Throttle links off, starter and heater hoses done. Going to drain the oil and trans fluid next. Headed to Lowe’s to get some rubber plumbing caps. Friend headed over to help with hood this afternoon. (Thanks Cliff for reminding me to mark the hinges). Cliff what’s are you talking about when you mention the WD-40 cap on the hood rod? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Cliff, I like to think things through before jumping in head first. I’ve leaned that lesson the hard way in life. Do you think I need to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds first. Would prefer not to and just remove the exhaust pipe from the manifold. I have an old valve cover…good idea!

Cliff, thanks for that. I think it gave me more to think about. I’m a bit concerned that my garage might not be tall enough using the load leveler with its standard set up. My garage is 9’9” tall and I don’t know what I’ll need but I don’t want to be in the middle of the pull out to figure it out, One response on the thread you sent the guy was worried about his 10’ garage not being enough, So, you mentioned that using ratchet straps should mitigate the height concern. Did you strap one to each end of the leveler or did you just attach them to the main hook on the hoist? Does anyone have any pics of that set up. I have two helpers on call to help me get though this, both with the same level of auto skills as me…aka amateurs. Side bar Cliff……my kid is burning though his vans (3 this year) because he thinks they’re perfect brakes. Things haven’t changed. We didn't have a lot of money when I was a young kid, my mom just said well it looks like you’re going to school with holes in your shoes. All my shoes were hand-me-downs from my brother until I was probably in 7th grade.

Interesting diving down these rabbit holes. One of my main reasons for wanting to avoid normal coolant is the disposal part. My county has 1 day out of the year (10 April) you can dispose of it and they charge you $10. Total BS, one of the many things I learned leading people is if you don’t provide an easy solution for people with a problem they very often do the wrong thing. Example, Billy-Bobs changes his coolant and discovers there is no place to dispose of it but that one day a year. You’ve made it too hard for Billy-Bob to comply so he goes and dumps it in the woods or sewer. Now I won’t do that but some people will. If you make it easy to follow the rules you get more compliance. I don’t want to store gallons of coolant in my garage for a year, which I’m going to have to do when I drain my rad tomorrow. I think I’ll probably go the traditional coolant route. Biggest reason is what Dave WM said. If a hose is damaged or I have a leak and I’m running Evans…I’m kind of stuck, especially when I’m driving to the next ZCON (East coast please). Not the case with traditional coolant. That’s the biggest driver to me. Good discussion and we have successfully thrown Jay Leno under the bus.

Getting all the stars aligned for the big pull. Picked up a unused 1 ton engine hoist on CL for $100. Cheaper than renting one for a week. I’m sure there will be work stoppages and challenges I run into that could push my timeline out 30 days. Shooting for a week? Also got a leveler for $34 at Harbor Freight. I primed and painted my transmission to match the engine block yesterday. It’s looking good. I’ll start disconnects tomorrow. -Cooling System - Wiring - Exhaust - drive shaft from transmission - slave cylinder . Starter -multiple misc items. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think Jay Leno is a good guy. Maybe not an expert but well informed and intelligent. I have no issue endorsing a product you believe in. He doesn’t seem like the type to talk up a product and not use it and you see that all over the advertising world. I’m interested in the product because we already know water is bad for your engine. My old motor in the car has corrosion off the chart, the water pump impeller total disintegrated, core plugs rusted through. Sure I don’t know the history, maybe a PO ran straight tap water or urine in an emergency?? I do know water based coolants have drawbacks. I’m like the idea that you can open the radiator cap on a hot engine and it doesn’t blow up in your face. I really like the idea of never changing it ever again. Doing radiator fluid is messy and then you have issues disposing of it after, (I bet it’s really fun)...that the part that isn’t all over your driveway afterwards. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Has anyone used Evans Waterless Engine Coolant? Everything I read about it, it sounds like amazing stuff. Non-corrosive, lasts forever and has better cooling properties. I saw Jay Leno uses it in all his cars now after corrosion problems on some of his cars. With my replacement engine I was thinking of using it and mitigating all the corrosion issues coolants have on internal components, end the painful replacement maintenance and environmental pain of disposal of normal anti-freeze. Seems like a no-brainer to me. Anyone have any experience with it. One draw back is the cost but it’s a one and done situation so over the life of a car it’s potential as cost saving. https://www.evanscoolant.com Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The first time I saw that 300ZX design I was blown away. It’s a beautiful car without question, but a serious departure from the previous Z designs (maybe too far). It seems Nissan got a little lost. What was once an affordable car for the masses became a car that only few could afford back then. They lost the spirit of what made the Z amazing. A simple, well engineered , beautiful car that had enough performance to wow the population. They tried to make later model of the car too plush, too many bells and whistles and lost track of what made the car great. This car to me share little it any DNA to the original S30 design spirit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The amount of carbon deposits on the head and pistons on the engine I rebuilt was remarkable. I’d like to mitigate that from happening again. Those deposits, hurt fuel efficiency and create hot spots I’ve read and can hurt CR. I think I’ll probably run two small independent cans like I mentioned above and see how it works. As far as CA power problems this has been brewing for years. I have no problem with going to cleaner energy sources but they have to have replacements in place before making restriction laws. I lived in Ca about half of my life. Everything has become crazy expensive there especially electricity and water. If they went full EV they’re going to need serious power plants to make that happen. New nuclear plants are illegal the CA and they’re work hard to ban coal plants too. I know they buy much of their energy from AZ. That’s just exporting your CO2. It’s going to be an interesting experiment, glad I don’t live there anymore. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Smarty Pants....amazed you guys have kept up with regulatory changes in the automotive industry. ICE engines are being outlawed in CA In 2035. The final nail in combustion engines coffin. When CA closed the San Onofre Nuclear power plant about 8 yrs ago they essentially added 1 million cars to CA from a emissions perspective. Thought that was an interesting factoid. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That makes sense, I was wondering why most modern engines don’t vent out the block as in our L-Series engines but only out the valve cover(s). It seems that maybe the best approach is a duel catch can approach. Saw several people doing this online. One for the crankcase with a PCV valve before the catch can to the inlet side of can followed but the outlet side to port in the bottom the intake. The one from the valve cover to another small can and then to the rubber boot before the intake. This should mitigate all the vent issues while catching the oil and minimizing what gets put back in for combustion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That makes sense, I was wondering why most modern engines don’t vent out the block as in our L-Series engines but only out the valve cover(s). It seems that maybe the best approach is a duel catch can approach. Saw several people doing this online. One for the crankcase with a PCV valve before the catch can to the inlet side of can followed but the outlet side to port in the bottom the intake. The one from the valve cover to another small can and then to the rubber boot before the intake. This should mitigate all the vent issues while catching the oil and minimizing what gets put back in for combustion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So here’s a question. Duffy has the PCV valve coming directly off the block. Are you going into a catch can inlet from there? Would the line off the valve cover go not the other inlet of the catch can? Outlet to a filter mount on the top of the catch can? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Duffy, That’s a slick idea. Do you have a link to where you got that PCV grommet and valve? Bruce., Thanks for the explanation and that make perfect sense. So keep the PCV in place to balance the vacuum pressure. I’m think the catch can can accept oil in either direction but not sure. If you had 2 inlets to the can that would function the same I think except you might suck oil back a when vacuum pressure is high in the intake. Since most modern cars using catch cans these days are EFI, I imagine there is an off the shelf solution that considers all the changes in vacuum pressure within the intake. I’ll begin my research and report back my findings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m sure someone on the forum will chime in that knows how to refit this. I can’t be the only one that has this problem. I imagine you can put a sleeve in there and re-press it in. Maybe an epoxy weld like JB weld might work too. I’d rather have a better solution that that. Any thoughts on the PVC delete for EFI catch can. Captain Obvious might have an answer for us.

Good discussion. Not to highjack the thread but with an EFI system would you just get rid for the PVC valve (put a bolt to fill the PVC inlet on the intake manifold) and route the crankcase vent line line directly to the catch can? Also my pipe exiting my block (on my rebuilt engine) isn’t held in the block by anything. How is the pipe fixed to the block? Here’s a pic and video. https://youtube.com/shorts/nb9W3agy6zI?feature=share Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven’t but I also don’t feel like being a cripple any time soon. As kids we used to “hillside” on our skateboards. I grew up in the Bay Area near San Francisco and we had serious winding hills where I lived. We would cannonball run down these hill that we’re over a mile long and we would weave down the hill sideways to slow down. We’d hit like 40 mph (had to tighten the trucks up big time to be stable) To do it we’d lay backwards and put one hand on the road. We had homemade gardening gloves what were massively wrapped in duck tape and had layers of plastic; the stuff used to protect the bottom of your skateboard. So you’d lay the glove down and push your trailing leg forward causing the board to skid sideways and slow down. You’d S turn like this all the way down the hill. It was epic fun but we had some close calls with oncoming traffic. Don’t tell me how I survived my childhood. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think it was a short bolt. The bolts in the end are the long ones it appears because the intake flange is thicker there compared to the inner ones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk