Av8ferg

So, I have already mounted my intake and header. I have one small problem. One of the upper intake bolts is partially stripped. It will lightly tighten but when I torque it it spins. Can’t spin by hand. So I can try and tap it bigger not or wait and see if it holds. It’s my fault it stripped. It wasn’t sitting flat when I originally mounted the intake manifold the bottom was hanging up on part of the header and was off flat by 1/8” of an inch. Question2: Do I need a new transmission mount ? Again is it one of those items that should just be replaced. I found an OEM one for $88 for aftermarket for about $43. Not sure if there is a difference like the engine mounts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mark you were the pioneers. The Lewis and Clark of skating. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We never wore helmets...you might get beat up if you did. Today it’s mandatory. We had a 13 year old hit his head skateboarding a few years ago in my neighborhood. He died in the Ambulance due to being intimated into his stomach. Very sad. We know the family. His family set up a foundation. https://www.doitfordrew.org Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks ZH, just bought OEMs from NissanPartsDeal for $48 each. Expensive but I’m not in the mood to modify and have more headaches. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-insulator-mount~11220-n3300.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s a legit Old School one...amazing you kept it. I bought a new one Gator 2 years ago to ride with my kids. Boards are different these days. My son’s is on the left. My squadron gave me the one on the right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here are the motor mount from zcardepot. Says they need modification? Rock Auto had the Beck Arnley one for $10, wondering if they need modification too.

Yep, those were a pair of Vans that had been shredding up the streets on my skateboard. Back then if you worn new stuff people called you a poser...I had to maintain my image. That’s exactly what those glasses were...top shelf back then. I weighed maybe a 115 lbs. Somehow I’m the same height and weigh 60lbs more today. Okay...ordering motor mounts today. Side note: I crashed that car in 1990. Ran into a Jersey Barrier on sharp turn on a icy road in Boston. Dad almost killed me. But it was repaired and looked and drove like new again. If I could find that car today I’d buy it back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay the Exedy clutch and Fidanza fly wheel arrived yesterday. I’ve decided to attempt to pull the engine and transmission as one unit. I’m going to use neither (engine or transmission again). I have a 280zx transmission I cracked open last summer and many of you help in that endeavor (EuroDat, Zed Head, And Dave WM to name a few). It was like a primitive ape looking at the inside of a iPhone....clueless. I think my current transmission has issues so this is the most efficient path forward. I need (want) to paint the transmission to match my block first. Question regarding motor mounts. What’s the consensus? Do these need to be replaced when I swap engines or is there some inspection that determines their usability? Had not thought of that but I know many other cars these mounts needs periodic replacement. My Dad used to have a 944 and that thing ate Motor Mounts every 50k miles it seamed. That was a great great car BTW. This is me when I was 18 driving my Dads 944. What a car for an 18 year old kid....dangerous, what was my Dad thinking Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My quick Google search supports Bruce’s comment....let her go! Wish I were coming too. I promise my car will be ready next ZCON Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven’t posted on this thread for a myriad of reasons mostly because I have followed Captain Obvious’s advice. Let the medical professionals be your guide. I’m lucky that I’m married to a Doctor and she’s 100% pro vaccine and pro COVID-19 vaccine. She’s blown away there are people not getting vaccinated because of conspiracy theory’s. When in doubt trust your physician and when people make crazy accusations I use Occam’s Razor (Principle of Parsimony) the simplest explanation is usually the most accurate one. The government doesn’t need to fake a pandemic to make you take a vaccine to alter you DNA or whatever you Facebook buddy came up with. There are many more logical avenues to do such a thing if you were so convinced they would do such a thing. Bruce: to answer you question this might be helpful. Passed to me by a friend who is a doctor and says this guy Is spot on with COVID info. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks ZH. So as long as I get the Fidnaza flywheel you sent above and the Exedy 240mm clutch kit, I should be good to go? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So are you saying I need to find additional bolts to attach the Fly Wheel? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, both of you have totally cleared the fog on this. Once again the rock auto website says (2+2 ) model for Exedy kit, that’s not a issue for my std 2 seater? I’m ordering the Exedy 06030 clutch kit and Fidanza Fly Wheel today. I really appreciate the help here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. Rock auto has the Exedy 06030 Clutch kit in stock . About to order but it says for 2+2? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1982,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209350,transmission-manual,clutch+kit,1993 Would this work with the stock fly wheel? Might opt to just lighten the extra fly wheel I have but just what to be sure. Will probably go with the Findaza Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you! What the difference between The 225mm and 240mm clutch? I under it’s a different size but what does that translate to in regards to driving? I’m not racing this car on a track just want a fun, reliable car to enjoy driving on the streets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, absolutely I’d love that parts list. My current 5speed has a nasty whine inn second. Not sure what it is but I got a 5 speed from an 82 ZX to replace it. I haven’t checked the bushings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jonbill, great idea. I had an old tire I was going to use but this looks more stable. Rollers for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good idea with the tranny and engine together. I have a replacement tranny that I pulled from a ZX. I still need to buy a new light weight fly wheel and a new clutch. I know there was a recent thread on that topic, that I’m going to read tonight and get those on order. I’m also going to buy some matching spray paint to clean up a few surface rust areas in (under battery and under clutch master) . Found a place that matches factory colors. https://theautopaintdepot.com/automotive-paint/touch-up-paint/nissan/the-auto-paint-depot-persimmon-red-110-touch-up-paint-for-nissan-280z-all-years/ Let me know if you know a better source. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk This is from under the clutch master and the worst part of the engine bay. Rails look good still. Under the battery is not as bed either.

Good idea with the tranny and engine together. I have a replacement tranny that I pulled from a ZX. I still need to buy a new light weight fly wheel and a new clutch. I know there was a recent thread on that topic, that I’m going to read tonight and get those on order. I’m also going to buy some matching spray paint to clean up a few surface rust areas in (under battery and under clutch master) . Found a place that matches factory colors. https://theautopaintdepot.com/automotive-paint/touch-up-paint/nissan/the-auto-paint-depot-persimmon-red-110-touch-up-paint-for-nissan-280z-all-years/ Let me know if you know a better source. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So most of the regulars on the forum know I rebuilt an L-28 last year. With all sort of reasons for delaying the install I’m now about ready to do this. I wanted to start a thread to help lead me though any unknowns or challenges I’m bound to face on this next big task. To get everyone up to speed, the current engine has all sorts of problems that pushed me to just do a rebuild with a ZX motor I got at a salvage yard. Here are the bigs three items wrong with the current engine. 1. Rusted Core Plugs, so rusted that coolant leaked pretty bad. I had a temp fix of filling the rusted out holes with JB weld. It’s actually held. 2. Serious timing changing slap (needs a new chain) 3. Bad oil leak. Then you have lots of little things like broken valve cover bolts etc.. So the new engine is pretty much ready to go . Staying EFI for now, got a non-EGR intake, new injectors and a new billet fuel rail. Engine was a total top to bottom rebuild. Thats the back story. I’m about 10 days from actual engine removal. I have to acquire an engine hoist and get any other parts that will stop the install. So I want to ask the members here to give me some insights of things I might be overlooking and maybe some lessons learned. Places people have problems, special tools I might need and or things people screw up. I plan to spend about a week with the engine out, cleaning and preparing the engine bay. I also plan to replace ball joints and suspension rubber then. If anyone has tips and/or tricks to help me through this (doing it mostly alone with a little help from a buddy when I hoist and re-install). Please share. I’ll post updates on this thread as I work through this. Thanks! Here is the old and new engine pics taken today.

Gents, It’s looking like a no-go for me. I tried to schedule it in but it just didn’t work out. It looks like I’ll be in Europe while you all are exercising your livers. Don’t forget IPA’s make the worst beer hangovers and CO has many to choose from...start training now like Bruce. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those carpets look pretty nice, thanks for posting those pics. So if I forgo the carpet with the trans tunnel portion like the 260z kit is the general consensus that the rest to the kit will fit a 280z? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like the idea of using vinyl on the trans tunnel. I bought a nice diamond stitch vinyl material to do that with but here’s the question. Would that partial carpet kit work you bought for the 260z workon a 280z? Not sure if the floors boards and seating area are the same in the 260 and the 280. I’ think the 240z is different but not sure about the 260. Does anyone know?

Do you have any pics of the carpet kit you got from Chester and Herod. I bought the MSA loop carpet kit and it’s not good. I don’t plan on using it. I’ve debated taking the car to a pro and have them do it but if I could find a good one off the shelf I’d go that direction. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My limited research drove me away from the rubber. They have value on a daily driver or in populated areas where you have less control of what happens to your car when parked. I live in a small town, so not much traffic (unless it’s tourist season) so the chances for a small bump are less likely. I installed a split system AC in my garage and that thing is awesome. Had it set a 74 today....my old garage was a Chinese Sweat Shop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk