Av8ferg

Good topic. I have about 7 chargers floating around my house. They all serve a different purpose. I think the Schumacher has the majority of the market share due to price but they’re not great chargers...they’re okay. I have 2 of them and I’m put them in the mediocre pile but they’re good to dump a charge on a battery but not as good at a tender even though they’re labeled “smart chargers”. I had maintained a large battery backup that I finally dismantled after buying a whole house Generac Generator and 400 Amp transfer switch. The battery backup I had was for emergency DC power that I had inverters hooked up to incase we needed a little power to charge phones, listen to a radio or watch TV during a post hurricane event. I had 6 x 12 volt golf batteries on it. I had a dedicated 12 volt RV charger on that bank and it worked great . I used it 2x for power loss events. For my cars I use. CTEC chargers. I have 4. They’re awesome. I leave two on my jet skis batteries off season and two on my cars. I also got them for next to nothing. When Advanced Auto merged with Car Quest they combined SKU systems and anything on the old system was sold at a discount. These retail at $70-90 and I got them for $9 each. I bought 14 and gave them to friends and family as gifts and kept 4 for myself. I highly recommend them for the cars. I had the Z on one for 2 years and the Viper for 3 yrs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, a timely thread. I just ordered a driver’s door seal because mine is gone. Got it from Zcardepot so I hope it works. I’m also about to buy a rear hatch seal. MSA has an aftermarket one for $69 compared to $190 for a OEM. They said this one is improved and has been working well. A previous aftermarket one was problematic but it’s been fixed. We shall see. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cliff, you have a great memory. That Memphis incident was due to me running out of time. I was working on installing the replacement fuel pump. I didn’t have time to finish so I capped off the fuel lines with a bolt. Over the course of a few days pressure built up in the tank due to normal expansion from temp changes and that allowed fuel to slip past the bold. It was a bad leak that time. Probably upwards of 1/2 gallon. My roommates were very unhappy, and it also put a nice stain on the owner’s Epoxy floor. You really have a good memory, they forgot but you haven’t! A pilot light in the garage would be a bad idea with a fuel leak like that one. I checked my repair last night before going to bed and the tank was dry and the JB weld rock solid. I think I’m in the clear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had to execute and emergency repair this AM. Last night while at my son Lacrosse practice my wife texts me that the master bedroom and bath smell like gasoline! [emoji15] I knew right away It was the Z. I had just put 5 gallons of gas in it and it had to be a leak somewhere. I blamed it on the pressure washer which I had been using that day and uses gasoline. So today I got up and pull the car out and replaced the two fuel lines coming off the tank (return and one to pump) I also replaced the online filter. They didn’t have the cheap one so I opened for a different one? After putting double clamps on two of the line I saw a tiny bit of fuel dripping from the bottom of the tank. It was coming from where the return line pipe exits the tank. The weld was broken/rusted. I had little options and drained the tank all the way and then put JB weld around both pipes that exit the tank. We’ll see what happens tonight!!! Looks good for now, not pretty but it’s a gas tank. I had this tank totally restored a couple years ago and this must have already has a pin hole at the exit pipe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s cleaned up. Mold all gone. I replaced the clutch master today and bleed the system. If you don’t need a chiropractor you will after replacing that master. It was a nightmare getting under the dash to hook it up but this time I decided to unscrew the shaft from the bracket that connects to the pedal vs taking the pin out. I have no rear brakes but took it for a spin around the block anyway....watch out granny!!!!. Runs like crap. Lots of work ahead. Tomorrow, I’m repacking the front bearings, installing new rotors, calipers and brake pads. She doesn’t need my password just needs to unlock my phone and open Tapatalk. She has no interest though.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update.... My Z is finally home, tucked in my garage. Quite a journey getting her here. With a busy job, home construction delays, COVID, push back from my wife and logistical challenges it finally made it home. Thanks for all the help from the members of this forum. Now it’s time to get my hands dirty and make it ready to run like it was meant to be. Today is interior mold removal day. If my wife sees that mold it’s game over, she’s push it out and set it ablaze! Where is was stored had a serious mold issue and the interior has a light blanket of mold everywhere. I took these pics today.

I like the 280z front with the chrome bumper. I considered changing mine to a 240 style but didn’t think the juice was worth the squeeze. If I had to replace a damaged valance, lights and was already gong to incur the pasts cost then maybe.

Here’s a good looking 75’ on eBay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/124689955114?hash=item1d0819b92a:g:JpcAAOSw2gJgfyMJ Suspension looks a bit rusty but nothing too scary. It’s one of my favorite colors....wonder why. 😎

View Advert 240z stock air cleaner box Looking for a stock air cleaner to go on a set of 240z SU carbs. Advertiser Av8ferg Date 04/21/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1972 Model 240z  

Okay, so you just need to find a junked motor and steal the caps off it. Might be a hard find. See if you can find a cheap F54 block on CL or a salvage yard. Where do you live? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How much did you pay for this engine? Hopefully not too much. You said you want to keep it for a long time then the only answer is to do it right. If I were in your position I’d find another long block. You can get one for pretty cheap. I see them all the time in junkyards for $400+. That’s what I paid for mine. A cheap rebuild will cost you about $800 depending on what you do. Could be more or less. You have use this other engine that’s missing caps for parts. Was it a full engine or just a block? If a full engine there are parts you can sell to help cover your losses like the head etc. just an idea. Gotta know when to cut your loses vs putting good money toward a previous mistake. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was on my way to the airport today for work on a road I’ve driven 100x that’s 18 miles from my house and out of the corner of my eye I spotted what appeared to be a Z. I hit the brakes, turned around and behind a shed with a bunch of other cars next to a trailer home was this 240z. I couldn’t get close because he has a no trespassing sign and probably a shotgun or two and I had a flight to catch but once I get back I’m going to see if it’s worth buying and if the guy will sell. I’ve never see a 240z in my area ever. I can’t tell from the pic what year it is ,either way it will be an adventure to look at it without getting shot.

Thought you all might appreciate this 240z Buyer’s Guide video Hagerty’s put out 2 days ago. I think he misses a few finer points but overall he makes a good case for why one should buy and own on of these beauties.

Well since this is a phonetic alphabet there is no telling what it means. I bet it has something to do with the production process for some identification purpose and no actual meaning. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was a Japanese minor in college. They have 3 different writings Hiragana Katakana Kanji This is clearly Katakana which are not words in the traditional Japanese language (typically western words like “baseball”). This is translates to “Switzerland” like stated above. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, you will have to adjust the timing once you get the new chain on. Did you get a sprocket with the kit (should have). Some kits have the timing notch on the back of the sprocket and some do not. Guys on this forum have recently figured out which company’s do and do not. It’s not a big deal but it helps if later you want to adjust timing as the engine chain stretches. There are 3 different positions to put the new sprocket on. Assuming your head has never been shaved, position 1 with a new chain is the starting point. I’s make sure the engine is a TDC before you remove anything and that way you have a point of reference. Like Zed Head said . You set the shiny link next to the 1 on the sprocket. Be aware some chains don’t have a 2 shiny links so you have to count links. I believe it’s 21 links between but don’t quote me on that. Let’s cross that bridge when your kit arrives. I put an OSK on mine. You see below the 2 different sprocket. First one has 3 small cut outs on the edge of the bezel . Last pic is what your looking at for TDC. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with Captain Obvious. That chain tensioner looks extended too far. You might have some serious chain stretch going on. Another possibility is when you rotate the engine (clockwise -looking at chain) and then back it off going CCW you might see some chain slack build up on the left but it still looks like you have too much. Here a pic of my tensioner and chain following my rebuild. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Cliff, mine came with chrome lug nuts. They look pretty good. We’ll see once I mount them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey, I’m going through my parts collection today and thought I find stuff I want to sell and move out of here. I picked this rear 240z light metal valance with license plate light at one of my junk yard scores. I had at one point considering putting this on my car but after thinking it though I want to keep the stuff original on my car and preserve it for was it was in 77 minus a few items. (Wheels, bumpers, tranny, diff) So I was going to sell this on eBay but have no idea what it’s worth. It has no dents or deformation, chrome rings look nice. The back has very minor and insignificant rust on the back. Easy to sand off and paint over. So what is this whole thing worth? If someone on this forum wants it let me know. I’ll post of on the “for sale” section. i It will be less than I put on eBay. Free shipping always [emoji6] from me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tires and wheels came in and I just got them mounted and balanced. These tires look pretty nice. Overall I’m happy when you consider the total cost for everything including shipping and mounting was $901. That’s hard to beat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s just stuff. Nothing replaces the value of family, friends and health. My mother-in-law went into hospice today, We’d trade it all to get her back. The grass is only greener where you can be with the people you love and care about otherwise it’s all brown no matter how big the house is or how any toys you have. I’ll trade the Viper for the 240 🤫

‘Cliff, interesting idea. I bought mine through Walmart.com as they were $12 less per tire than Tire Rack. I really like the Rewinds too but the Rotas were a very close second. Price and availability made the choice pretty easy, I got home on Wednesday night so the credit card will be in an official cooling off period. I’ve been working like a dog since Covid became the underlining global issue and I’m finally getting some good time off. Looks like about 30 days. The garage is ready for the Z. Bought the lift installed it in between trips and now I just need to rent a car hauler and get it out of my Mom’s barn. I got all new brake rotors and calipers coming and shoes for the drums (thanks S30Driver for the tips) . Once it gets here the first order of business is getting safe brakes installed all around. I ordered Russel Speed Bleeders for the calipers and drums so bleeding is a simple one man job. Not sure if you’re familiar but another thing I looked into on my down time. http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/speed-bleeders/ Here’s the new parking spot for the Z. Just need a large mat on the floor because all the work ahead is going to get messy fast and I’m a bit obsessive about keeping stuff organized and clean. 🤓

Thanks for the feedback guys, So after finishing up my research on tires I went with one not on the above list. After reading many reviews and looking at the spec/value ratio I came up with the General G Max RS. This tire hasn’t been on the market long (2018) and is outperforming it’s completion in almost all areas. Tire Rack has so much information and research available that it’s really a one stop shop for tire information. This tire either beat or was on par with the Yokohama, BGFs, Falkens and Dunlop’s at an unbelievable price. I paid out the door for 4 tires $370 shipped to my door, and General offers a $70 rebate if you buy before 1 April. So $300 is the total cost. I went with 205/55R16 https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=247 It’s a summer tire but it doesn’t get too cold where I live and we get a snow dusting once every 4 years. BTW, these General tires are made by Continental in the USA, Once mounted on my wheels, which MSA just emailed me saying the Rewinds arrived I will post a pic.

I’m on a work trip, presently sitting in a hotel in Nottingham, England. The country is on a extreme lockdown. Nothing is open and can’t dine in or out. So being trapped in my hotel room during the day my credit card burning in my pocket as I shop for stuff for the Z online. In the days of COVID it seems supplies are limited in many things, especially wheels and tires. Was looking at Konig Rewinds and Rota Rbr but it’s seems the wheel world is on back order in most places including MSA. Now I’m looking at tires,. Same problem on many tires I’m interested in, I wanted to see what tires you guys are running and feedback. Here are the ones I’m looking at: 1. Dunlop Direzza (reviews online are average) 2. BFG g-force comp 2 a/s (complaints of road noise) 3. Yokohama advan v701 (replaces s Drives) 4. Bridgestone Potenza (most expensive) 5. Continental Extreme Contact (even more expensive) Looking for a quiet summer tire, don’t care about tread life or wet performance because I won’t drive in the weather. After a lot of reading in the forums I’ve decided to go with 205/55R16, to preserve OE wheel diameter. Debated a 15” and would go with 205/60R15 if I went that direction,. My current tires are 14” and old a dry rotted, wheels are crap too. This decision is long overdue. So in light of new tires available on the market today and some of the old faithfuls I’ve read about in the forum no longer available I’d like to update the topic and see where we are in 2021 in the Z tire world. Thanks,