Av8ferg

Thanks. I found the Omega Bushing for $19. How do you remove the old one and reinstall the new one? Looks like a very tight fit. Is this something that needs to be taken to a shop to have pressed in or an I tap it in? I’ll start poking around that bearing to see it that black casing comes off. May even video it to show you all because to my eye this looks likes it’s part of the bearing assembly, it I’m trusting you all. Seems like a JV move for a guy to leave it in there. All my parts are in order thanks to EuroDat’s parts list.

I have tool and talent envy. Good job. I have a hammer and vice grips . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK thank you for the information about that seal Dave. I looked at it closely it looks like that rubber is actually part of the bearing it says NSK made in Japan. I’m not sure if I should just leave it as is. Also I just had the case professionally cleaned. The guy said the bushing at the back of the transmission should be replaced and that it has gouges in it. See attached pictures what do you think. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m really not sure what you guys are referring to with the sealant? Are you talking about the black sealant around the adaptor plate? See my pics. Speaking of this, what do you use between the adaptor plates and the rest casing and bell housing? Those must me something that seals this mating surfaces. Copy on the gutter. Will buy 2. Looks like the guy who rebuilt this tranny didn’t put one back in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the instructions that came with my Nissan OEM rings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m no expert but play one on TV. I did mine per the FSM. The 77 FSM doesn’t mention the oil ring but the 82 FMS does. You need to be careful when using the ring compressor when installing them as it will cause the rings to migrate. I had to redo a couple. You’ll need to verify them afterwards. You can either use a d flashlight or rotate to crank and look for oil witness marks. See attached pics. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

About this oil gutter. I don’t have one on my transmission. I looked at the FSM and it appears that the 4 speed exploded view show an oil gutter but the 5 speed does not. I also looked around and could fin one available, for sale. Are they hard to find, and are we sure the 5 speed ZX transmissions had them? See attached pics from FSM.

Hey, thanks for all this information. I’ll start going through all those procedures and inspection points. Lots of information to digest especially when I really don’t understand how this thing really works. This is how you expand your knowledge; by diving in and learning. Sure helps to have some experts on this forum to keep you from making some fatal errors. Thanks for the parts list. I was looking online and I’m hoping most are easily sourced. Will start ordering some of that stuff. My hope is I don’t have to do any further work other than the aforementioned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks ZH. I will check all that out. What the best way to clean up some residual debris I see in between the gears and along the shaft? High pressure air? I guess using something like carb cleaner my not be a good idea due to removing oil but I don’t know. As all as you re-lube it all well it might be fine. It will sit open for about a week until the cases are blasted clean. I’m ordering a new throw out bear release that attaches to the fork. Since I don’t have a press I’m buying it already built. RockAuto sells them for about $39. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the feedback. Here’s a close up of one of the synchros. They all look about the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys. To an untrained eye this transmission internals looks nice. I suspect this may have be rebuilt before. It’s a clean as one could imagine for a car with 192k miles. Give aways were the gasket sealant, black paint rear housing and gasket under the front cover. It doesn’t look OE but again this is a guess. I need to get the front and rear case off for cleaning on the auto shop on base and get it back together before I forget where all these parts go. I may need help on that anyway. Here’s a video of the internals. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I figured it out. The transmission must be in neutral which I already knew but I must have moved it accidentally back into gear . It must be in neutral so you can rotate the portion where the actual stick inserts. Once rotated you can pull the casing right off. Looks pretty clean inside this thing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I started tearing apart this transmission, I have never done this before so I’m in uncharted waters. The FSM is vague and poorly discusses the tear down procedures so I’m trying to figure out why the rear casing is not coming apart. Take a peak at the video I posted and let me know if you see something I missed.

I’m no expert and there are guys on here that know more about this than me. - I would target my ECU for a misfire but it is possible. There are more likely causes. The best bet is to go through the Fuel Injection Book. It will walk you through troubleshooting everything you should do. - no you don’t need to reprogram your ECU. I think you need to make sure the ECU you replace with comes from a manual or Auto transmission...which ever you have. I had problems with an Auto transmission ECU on my manual car. Could have been a fluke. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, after stripping off the chrome how are you going to reapply it? Or are you doing something different. How long do you keep it in the acid bath and does it affect the plastic at all?

I just ordered some parts from courtesyparts.com two days ago. (Mainfold Studs from a 300zx for my 280z engine rebuild), first time ordering from them so we'll see how they work out. I tried called 4 dealerships in my area. What I discovered after looking on their website is that they show the parts available but when you call they tell you otherwise. I guess my point is to actually calingl the dealerships will save you time. Like I said before NissanPartsDeal has worked well for me, and I like how they show you manufacture schematics to help you ensure you have the right part. Good luck, the hunt is part of the passion.

Cool, not sure what that is but happy to learn. I noticed one of the O2 nuts is missing, Maybe it comes that way. Wasn’t sure if I needed to install an O2 sensor, not even sure if my 77 had one.

Picked up those headers today. They were never used, so this was a good deal. Time to finished this engine build next week.

Thanks Cliff. I’ll order one. I can’t wait to see the looks I get when I drag this header and Y pipe through the company hub. I’m also picking up some louvers too.

Thanks, I sent the guy a message and he said they’re round port. Some photo investigation (shape of center flange) they appear to be pacesetter ceramic coated headers. Pacesetter doesn’t sell SS only black or ceramic coated. you can see the flange is exactly the same. Different on the MSA, It comes with the Y pipe too. For a $100 I don’t think I can beat it. New ones are over $400. If they suck Ill sell them.

Hey, I’m on a work trip in Southern California and was searching the classifieds and stumbled on a set of headers for sale. Guy wants $100. He’s parting out his L28 for an engine swap. They look stainless but might be coated, can’t really tell. Not sure if it’s a good deal and I really can’t tell what kind they are. The look like either the Pacesetter or MSA 3-2. They have two O2 sensor bungs too. The add says N47/N42 engine setup but the pic shows round ports to me and exhaust liners but maybe I’m not seeing it right, $100 seems like a decent deal since the MSA ones are $369. BTW, was considering driving to MSA and picking up headers curbside and save on shipping if I didn’t get these used ones. I called the store and the guy said he recommends the 3-2 headers. His comment was 6-1 better for highway driving and 3-2 better for stop and go power? He wasn’t helpful at all. Also said exhaust portS were different on N47 and P79 heads (said something about diamonds shape). I thought they were the same and he told me “No”. I think he’s wrong but I’m no expert. Heres’s a pic of the headers for sale. Can anyone identify these headers and will they work on my P79 head? Thanks

No worries. NissanPartsDeal is a legit site. I bought my breaker plate there for $47 I think and other parts as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My springs are free no wire transfer required [emoji6] This is how we roll on this forum! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys. ZH, I noticed the same thing regarding color. I also noticed some black RTV where the bell hosing connects to the case so someone might have been inside before. When I get it open I’ll take a bunch of pics and a video and go from there. Of note. This salvage yard has been sold. The owner is attempting to crush all the cars buy 1 Sep for scrap metal. He said rate not is about $4 per 100 lbs. He’s got seven L-28 engines and six 5 speed transmissions in those cars . What a waste. I might try and make a deal with him. At $4 per 100 lbs that puts a Z bringing him about $115. I wish I had a place to put one of those Z’s and get some of the transmissions and engines. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I finally picked up that 1982 280zx transmission and differential that I purchased a while back. Fist impression is that it looks rough on the outside. I wanted to start a thread so I can get the guidance and advice as I analyze and open this up for inspection. Thy last time I looked inside a manual transmission was 1980 when my dad pulled the tranny out of our 1974 Corolla to repair it. I was 10 then and was the hand me the tool, hold this flashlight helper. So just like my methodology I had with the engine rebuild, I don’t want to put an Unknown quantity in the car. Just like I found the protruding valve seat on my P79 head, I’d prefer to get ahead of possible problems. I want to at least inspect the inside and determine if it requires an replacement parts. I’m in no rush. The car should be in my new garage in about 5 weeks and as soon as it get here I’m going to pull the old engine and drive train. I’m hoping to get it off to body work then. So. I’m guessing some will say it’s probably good so don’t waste time opening it up and going through all that extra work. First this is a labor of love. Secondly, I want to to be a reliable tranny that I don’t have to go back and fix later. Finally, it’s an opportunity to learn and expand my knowledge and skill. With that all said, I’m hoping you all can guide me through the pitfalls and help me see the blind spots as I pull this thing apart. Here are the pics. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk