Av8ferg

So, I got a call from the machine shop about my engine and it appears there is a problem with the head, The mechanic said one of the valve seats was protruding into the chamber by about .1000”. Said the head had been worked at some point in its life and someone did a “hack job” putting in this new valve seat. He said the can replace it and recommend doing all of them and then they would grind the valves also. So they want an extra $240 to do this over the $220 I was already going to pay, My question to the crowd should I proceed and allow them to do this work or abort and find a different head. The guy doing the work said he rebuilt a L28 last year and they can do the work, I really don't know much about this topic and only have read in the Nissan engine rebuild book by Tom Monroe that replacing valve seats is strictly the professional machinist. I really don't know much about this shops specific reputation or how much they really know about these Nissan engines, “The Captain” fielded an emergency call from me today to help me understand what the machinist was saying and called him back to verify it. Much appreciated CO! I might drive to the shop tomorrow to get pics.

Captain, I’m going to look today and see if there is any marks like that on mine. I thought I took a close look already for witness marks but now I know exactly what to look for, thanks. BTW, I grabbed a non-EGR head from one of the 75s in that yard. They only wanted $40 (that’s for the intake, heat shields, throttle body, injectors and all sensors on the head) so I figured why not grab it. Haven’t decided if I’ll use this or the ZX intake. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

While there is a bunch of work to do on this 240z could be a winner for someone with restoration talent. Sitting at $600 last time I checked . https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-110/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The research I’ve done for my other cars is the Wixx makes the best filters (same a Napa Gold). Someone on YouTube cut most of the main brands open and Wixx was consistently the best made with the best filter. Fram was by far the worst. Bosch and tested as average. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A little lite wire wheel and elbow grease and these cleaned up nice. All cracks are no longer visible. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So you bought a new front cover? Why? Didn’t follow what you said about the dizzy shaft? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, I sanded one of the areas I saw the spider cracks and I think it’s fine. I used 320 grit followed by 1500. Check it out now. Any seconds? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey, can you guys take a look at the close ups of my timing chain cover. I’m not sure if these are cracks, a failure of some coating or part of the die casting process. They look like hairline cracks to me and they feel rough to the touch. Anyone else have those?

Anybody know the purpose of these hex plugs under the intake? Should I remove them to clean this whole thing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m sure it does...I copied yours Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

While I wait for my block and head to be completed I’ve started to clean up my intake manifold and will refresh all connections and sensors. I had these parts for the fuel rail for about a year so I finally got to building it up. I wanted to streamline the fuel delivery layout away from the rusty looking trombone rail that comes stock. This aluminum rail was $40 on eBay. I had to drill and tap all the openings execpt the ends which just needed tapping with a tap 1/4 NPT. Got all the bibs and tap from Fastenal. Tap was almost as much at the rail at around $30. Brass Bids were very cheap too. Whole deal cost me about $80 and about 70 mins of work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s a bummer. I was going to possibly get and OSK chain kit. I know the car doesn’t car but the owner does. Does any one know if the ITM has it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Should have mail them FedEx but I’m biased. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the problem in having a car that has had untold owners and maintenance. You just don’t know what’s been done when. One of the reasons I broke my engine all the way down and plant on replacing all consumables/wear items. I don’t think you failed in inspecting this, but that chain might be the original one and sometimes is easy to have the “not fix it if it ain’t broken” mentality. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think this is part of the inspection the shop is going to do. There were no visible leaks on the head gasket and the yard said compression was consistent across all cylinders when they did its arrival assessment. Good points and I’ll ask whenI call them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I saw that in the book. Using OEM Nissan rings. Will do the research. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The engine is at the shop. $50 hot tank and replace core plugs $65 clean and inspect head and cam $55 to shave head .040 $50 to hone cylinders and polish crank 10 day turnaround. $220 out the door plus tax. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, so I did a little investigative work this AM to see if I could find patterns or consistencies in the rod bolt orientation. I found no smoking gun but have some observations. The staining didn’t show anything remarkable. Captain I’d like to see what you find. Since I don’t know which ones are right and which ones the bolt fell out, I can’t determine which is correct. So there is a 12 and and R on the rod bolt. I’m assuming that was stamped there for a reason. I took one piston and rod assemblyI think is correct and placed the piston notch forward and then assessed how the bolts were oriented from both sides. It appears that on the left side (looking down) the 12 is forward (same direction as piston notch) and the right side the R is forward. CO see if you have a similar observation or anyone who has one they know is assembled right can verify that orientation. See pics below. I love a good mystery. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried that. That was how I did all the other ones but this one was so stubborn the screwdriver kept puncturing the plug. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CO, that’s a fantastic idea. The pistons and rods are wrapped in cloth and individually bagged but I’m going to open them back up tomorrow and looks for the staining. The other idea I had was to put them in the direction that requires the least force to seat. That may the original orientation that goes in smoothest. I was hoping that the stamps of the bolt heads would be consistent but I don’t think that’s the case....rats. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No I left that one in there. After the battle with the rear one I didn’t want to risk it. I’ll ask the shop if they can get it. I’ll remind them how close the bore is to that one. Everything is loaded up in the SUV to take to the shop tomorrow. Here’s the task list: 1. Hot Tank block 2. Inspect and clean head 3. Inspect crank and journals 4. Hone cylinders 5. Install new core plugs (like that ZH) 6. Will inquire about shaving head. Crankshaft journals looks beautiful to me, no signs of anything to be concerned with. Getting all this rust out of the cooling jackets and chambers will be nice and I’m sure it will help it run cooler. I need to start ordering rebuild parts. A question for the crowd. When I removed the pistons I had a couple rod bolts fall out on to the garage floor. Which means I lost the original orientation. They can only go in two ways. (180 deg out from each other) Each bolt has two markings on either side of the head a “12” one one side and “H” on the other. I have the correct bolt in the correct side of the rod but it may be spun 180 out. I’m assuming either way is fine but wanted to confirm. I’m only concerned because of this comment on the book. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can see that happening without beers. I drilled a hole to put in a small bolt, screwed the self tapping bolt in with my drill and almost hit the bore. Whew....had to flash a light in there to verify I didn’t hit it. That plug is in there good. I need to have a professional remove it. I tore it up good trying. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Almost got all the freeze plugs out, except the front and back ones. They don’t want to move. There appears to be a bunch of rust in the engine behind all the plugs I pulled. Behind the coolant drain plug is was packed full of debris. This block needs a nice hot tank to clean all this up. Probably need the shop to remove front and rear drain plugs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, pulling crank now. I decided to label with a paint pen after wiping the areas with denatured alcohol. My kids have a habit on moving crap in my garage. They’d be sure to mix them up while I’m on a work trip. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found this in my Nissan L Series Engine Rebuild book. Might be what happened to you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk