Av8ferg

I agree with the crowd’s sentiment. You live in California? The Mecca for rust free Zs? I found mine in Mississippi (previous CA car). It was 3k (1977). Totally rust free. There might be some rust I haven’t see yet but all the typically areas are clean. So...with that said get one and either sell this 78 or use it as a parts car. I bet you can find a rust free 280 out there for 5-7k all day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You picked a nice color...way better than what it came with. I’ve been trying to determine what I’ll paint my car. Thinking a full repaint. Not really a fan of my 110 Red. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Color is awesome, what is it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, thanks for the input. I called and talked to the machinist again. I mentioned possibly not resurfacing the head and he didn’t like that idea. There is some electrolysis corrosion on the head face that he thinks should be removed to ensure a proper seal. He wants to remove as little as possible. I asked about rod bolts and he said if they not bent or show any damage they should be fine to reuse. Sounds like getting new bolts had its own set of concerns...jeez!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the feedback and opinions. I tend to agree that finding another head doesn’t mean it will be good. The machinist said this is an easy fix. - Captain: No all the pistons look fine but I’m not done cleaning them either, so that may change. - ensys: I agree there is always a chance to screw it up more. I live in eastern NC. Access to world class machine shop is not an option. You get the good ol boy machinists here. This place build race engines and they guy has been doing it for 15 years. He’s a good ol boy but no stupid. I think Perfection is the enemy of good. In pursuit of perfection in life can make thinks worse. I’m leaning toward not cutting it at all like your suggested. So, another controversial topic is Rod Bolts. People seem very polarized on this topic. Car guys ( not Z guys) that are my friends around me all recommend replacing the rod bolts for piece of mind. There are many on this forum and others that say this is totally unnecessary. My thoughts are leaning towards replacing them. Here’s my rationale. 1. I don’t know the engine history. All I know it’s been cracked open before. 2. It’s about 40 years old 3. Only hurts the wallet to replace these bolts 4. Rod bolts take the brunt of the engine force. Why risk it? Spend $60 for piece of mind vs risking $1500 or more after a rod bolt snaps when I’m driving to Pikes Peak like Dave WM. I’m found a set of ARP for $55. Nissan Stock ones for $46. Anyone know where to find OEM Nissan Valve Stem Seals. Zcardepot wants $62. Seems outrageous! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I got my block and crank from the machine shop today and got to peek at the head to look at the issue it has. Crank was great said said the journals were spot on and consistent across the board. Block looks good, no issues there. As far as the head. It’s been worked before the deck was fine but he wants to resurface to get it prefect. It’s been resurfaced before it appears. Deck measures between 4.249” to 4.250”. I’m told the factory head is 4.255. So he wants to take about another .005” off. Total would be .0010 off of stock. One valve seat is jacked up. See pics below. The one seat is sticking out and there is a gap behind it between head and seat. He doesn’t think all should be changed but there is some corrosion so he is going to clean up the rest and do complete valve job. Total cost for all this will be $300. Any thoughts from the pros out there. Option 2 would be to resource another head and start over but the machinist thinks this head is fine otherwise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, I got a call from the machine shop about my engine and it appears there is a problem with the head, The mechanic said one of the valve seats was protruding into the chamber by about .1000”. Said the head had been worked at some point in its life and someone did a “hack job” putting in this new valve seat. He said the can replace it and recommend doing all of them and then they would grind the valves also. So they want an extra $240 to do this over the $220 I was already going to pay, My question to the crowd should I proceed and allow them to do this work or abort and find a different head. The guy doing the work said he rebuilt a L28 last year and they can do the work, I really don't know much about this topic and only have read in the Nissan engine rebuild book by Tom Monroe that replacing valve seats is strictly the professional machinist. I really don't know much about this shops specific reputation or how much they really know about these Nissan engines, “The Captain” fielded an emergency call from me today to help me understand what the machinist was saying and called him back to verify it. Much appreciated CO! I might drive to the shop tomorrow to get pics.

Captain, I’m going to look today and see if there is any marks like that on mine. I thought I took a close look already for witness marks but now I know exactly what to look for, thanks. BTW, I grabbed a non-EGR head from one of the 75s in that yard. They only wanted $40 (that’s for the intake, heat shields, throttle body, injectors and all sensors on the head) so I figured why not grab it. Haven’t decided if I’ll use this or the ZX intake. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

While there is a bunch of work to do on this 240z could be a winner for someone with restoration talent. Sitting at $600 last time I checked . https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-110/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The research I’ve done for my other cars is the Wixx makes the best filters (same a Napa Gold). Someone on YouTube cut most of the main brands open and Wixx was consistently the best made with the best filter. Fram was by far the worst. Bosch and tested as average. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A little lite wire wheel and elbow grease and these cleaned up nice. All cracks are no longer visible. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So you bought a new front cover? Why? Didn’t follow what you said about the dizzy shaft? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, I sanded one of the areas I saw the spider cracks and I think it’s fine. I used 320 grit followed by 1500. Check it out now. Any seconds? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey, can you guys take a look at the close ups of my timing chain cover. I’m not sure if these are cracks, a failure of some coating or part of the die casting process. They look like hairline cracks to me and they feel rough to the touch. Anyone else have those?

Anybody know the purpose of these hex plugs under the intake? Should I remove them to clean this whole thing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m sure it does...I copied yours Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

While I wait for my block and head to be completed I’ve started to clean up my intake manifold and will refresh all connections and sensors. I had these parts for the fuel rail for about a year so I finally got to building it up. I wanted to streamline the fuel delivery layout away from the rusty looking trombone rail that comes stock. This aluminum rail was $40 on eBay. I had to drill and tap all the openings execpt the ends which just needed tapping with a tap 1/4 NPT. Got all the bibs and tap from Fastenal. Tap was almost as much at the rail at around $30. Brass Bids were very cheap too. Whole deal cost me about $80 and about 70 mins of work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s a bummer. I was going to possibly get and OSK chain kit. I know the car doesn’t car but the owner does. Does any one know if the ITM has it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Should have mail them FedEx but I’m biased. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the problem in having a car that has had untold owners and maintenance. You just don’t know what’s been done when. One of the reasons I broke my engine all the way down and plant on replacing all consumables/wear items. I don’t think you failed in inspecting this, but that chain might be the original one and sometimes is easy to have the “not fix it if it ain’t broken” mentality. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think this is part of the inspection the shop is going to do. There were no visible leaks on the head gasket and the yard said compression was consistent across all cylinders when they did its arrival assessment. Good points and I’ll ask whenI call them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I saw that in the book. Using OEM Nissan rings. Will do the research. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The engine is at the shop. $50 hot tank and replace core plugs $65 clean and inspect head and cam $55 to shave head .040 $50 to hone cylinders and polish crank 10 day turnaround. $220 out the door plus tax. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, so I did a little investigative work this AM to see if I could find patterns or consistencies in the rod bolt orientation. I found no smoking gun but have some observations. The staining didn’t show anything remarkable. Captain I’d like to see what you find. Since I don’t know which ones are right and which ones the bolt fell out, I can’t determine which is correct. So there is a 12 and and R on the rod bolt. I’m assuming that was stamped there for a reason. I took one piston and rod assemblyI think is correct and placed the piston notch forward and then assessed how the bolts were oriented from both sides. It appears that on the left side (looking down) the 12 is forward (same direction as piston notch) and the right side the R is forward. CO see if you have a similar observation or anyone who has one they know is assembled right can verify that orientation. See pics below. I love a good mystery. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried that. That was how I did all the other ones but this one was so stubborn the screwdriver kept puncturing the plug. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk